Ball Engineer Master II Diver TMT

Ball sold jewelry, silverware, clocks, and watches, from his small shop near the railroad tracks in Cleveland in the 1880s. Due to a fatal wreck in 1891 in Kipton, Ohio the General Superintendent of the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern Railroad appointed Ball as Chief Inspector to investigate the industry's timekeeping practices and formulate inspection standards. He served the railroad industry well and soon, his standardization policy was in place throughout 125,000 miles of track in the USA, Canada and Mexico.

Ball watches are perhaps one of the best known names in railroad watches. However, they did not make watches. Webb C. Ball, founder of the Ball Watch Co. of Cleveland, Ohio was the driving force behind the development of the extremely accurate class of watches "approved for railroad service".

In 1891, seizing the opportunity, Ball contracted with watch companies such as Elgin, Waltham Hamilton, E. Howard, Hampden and others, to provide him with watch movements that met his strict standards. He then inserted these movements into high quality cases that bore the name of the Ball Watch Company on the outside. By 1908, the Ball Watch company was furnishing high grade pocket watches to over 100 different railroad systems. Since then, pocket watches that bore the Ball watch company name have been considered to be the Rolls-Royce of Railroad pocket watches.

At BALL Watch, innovation and creativity are the cornerstones on the foundation of the corporate mission, "Accuracy Under Adverse Conditions". Continuing in the tradition of Webster Clay Ball, BALL Watch aspires to manufacture the most accurate mechanical watches on the planet, ruggedized for use by those that live / work / play in truly adverse conditions. With unlimited inspiration, BALL is today setting the standards just as Webster Clay Ball did in the late 1800s and through the early 1900s. Most of BALL Watch equipped with ETA movement modified for Ball’s tough application specification in Switzerland.

All BALL Watches are a 7,500 G force shock resistance, the -40 degree Celsius temperature rating, and a patented crown protection system.

Attached is the limited Engineer M aster II Diver TMT watch limited 2006 pieces. The sample show here is 0555, made in year of 2006. a Solid built Automatic watch strong to last, beautiful to be eye-catching, cost effective for everyone could afford. It was Sold at About HKD $12,500.00

Note the word T-25, it stands for the life time of GTLS stands for Gaseous Tritium Light Sources, these are tiny glass vials with a thin coating of Phosphorescent substance on the inside wall. Filled with Tritium gas and then sealed tight with a laser beam. Tritium (H3) is a radioactive isotope of Hydrogen, It has a half life of 12.3 years. During the decay of Tritium, a low energy electron is emitted. This process so called beta Radiation. During this process of decay the tritium molecule becomes a stable Helium molecules. The emitted electron hits the thin coating of Phosphorescent substance and is converted into visible cold light. The colour of the light depends on the types of the phosphorescent substance being used. The life time of it is 12.3x2 = 25 years, that was what it printed as T-25, Tritium 25 years!

HK Snob

Rolex Survives from the Top of the World to the Bottom of the Sea

On 23 Jan 1960, a Rolex was carried with the Trieste on his virgin historic dive to 10,916 Metres at World’s deepest place under Mariana Trench at the west Pacific Ocean, near Guam.
After 52 years, on 26 March 2012, Nat Geo Explorer in –residence James Cameron, on board the Deepsea Challenge prepared for go deeper. Another new Rolex is part of the deep dive Expedition: A Rolex Sea Dweller marked Deepsea Challenge.
Rolex builds its most popular Sport watch for many fans over the years, Submariner is still the best seller of all the professional diver watch.
The Company, Rolex itself is unique in that it is still privately owned and that the principal shareholder is a private family trust all of whose profits are given to charity. Due to this unique structure it does not have to concern itself with short-term profit goals and can therefore plan for the long term. Rolex is one of the largest producer for Hi Quality Chronometers in Switzerland after, Rolex does not have Tourbillon, nor repeater, However, Rolex is without doubt the most recognized watch in the world, what is not so well known is that the modern Rolex is the basis of almost all modern watches. The waterproof case, the self winding movement, the date window in the dial, the GMT two time zone watch and the diving watch are all Rolex inventions. Go to your near Rolex Authorized Dealer and put down your VISA Credit card then…Select a Rolex DeepSea or Submariner or you!

HK Snob

All Major Rolex Models and Price discount in Hong Kong Rolex Authorized Dealers

For many people who keeps on aking me price of Rolex, and there are 500 comment asking the same questions about the current price of Rolex, I had hard time to reply but supported by friends who is working in Rolex AD and Dealers, I still manage to update them with latest price, but due to Swiss France appreciation in 2011, at the same time HK Dollars is pegged with green back. Rolex has adjusted the price 4 times in 2011, and 5 times for Tudor. In So far, Rolex has yet announced the price changes…Good luck!
But It is hard to track the price soon as I can see there will be price changes soon as Rolex did every year, an average of 10-15% increase in the past 10 years, So why not I put a rough estimation on every of the major models…

The Models: Rolex currently produces around a dozen different Oyster Perpetual models. Rolex also has their dress line, Orchid 50-60 and later Cellini. For ladies they make the 23mm Oyster-Perpetual, 26mm Date & Datejust, and 29mm Yacht-Master. In mid-size, you can get the 31mm Datejust or 35mm Yacht-Master (the only sport model offered in a case smaller than 40mm). Lastly there are the gents: 34mm Date & Air-King; 36mm Datejust, Explorer & President; and the 40mm Daytona, Explorer II, GMT-Master-II, Sea-Dweller, Submariner, and Yacht-Master. The new one like Explorer II, Sky-Dweller is made of a larger size of 42mm.
Some models like the gents Datejust currently have about 10 model numbers in production... The numbers help differentiate the different metals and bezels used. Dial colors are not included, so that leaves one with dozens of new Datejust choices... The Sea-Dweller in comparison is offered only in steel, only with a black dial, and only as Ref. 16600

Air-King: The Air-King could be considered the "entry level" model from Rolex. Current models retail for HKD$43,000 with the smooth bezel fitted, with the engine turned bezel, or HKD$49,000 with the White Gold bezel. It is 34mm in diameter and comes with an Oyster bracelet by default. The Air-King does not have a Date. In the 1970s, the Air-King was offered with a date and in gold & steel combinations which was rare! Those two variations likely ceased production since they are redundant next to the Date and Oyster Perpetual models. Rolex Air-King Watches.

Date: The Rolex Date is 34mm like the Air-King, but it obviously includes a date function. Its production began in the late 1950s, around the time the steel Datejust was introduced. Retails range from HKD$45,000 with a smooth bezel and Oyster bracelet to HKD$60,500 with an 18K white gold fluted bezel and diamond markers. The date model was once offered in 3 flavors: steel, 18k yellow & steel, and all 18k yellow gold. It is now only available in steel.

Datejust: The Datejust is the best selling Rolex model on the market, 60% of Rolex model is Datejust and has been for decades. It was first introduced in 1945. The gents model is 36mm in diameter and typically came on a Jubilee bracelet. Rolex seems to have changed their tradition on this and is sending more Datejust models out the door with the Oyster band. Models with smooth bezels are available, but less common. Most have the fluted bezel, which is 18k white gold on the steel model.

The Datejust was only available in gold until 1957 (conveniently a year after the release of the Day-Date which still has never seen a steel model). The steel Datejust was introduced and became an instant success. Rolex soon saw the steel variations selling much quicker than their gold models. Rolex countered this in 1962 when they introduced the gold and steel version..

Ladies Date/Datejust: These two models use the same 26mm case mold and offer the exact same functionality. Rolex discontinued the ladies Date, there was so much overlap in the models that it seemed long overdue. Retails range from HKD$46,600 for the most current 171960 steel Datejust. The more popular Datejust with White gold bezel retails for HKD$49,000. The Gold & Steel models start at HKD$606,00 (179173) and go up to HKD$97,000 for a 179313 with diamond mother of pearl dial and 12 diamond bezel.

Explorer: It was introduced in 1954, and has had one look through-out its life; a black dial with Arabic numbers at 3', 6' and 9', no date, smooth bezel, Oyster bracelet, and a stainless steel 36mm case. Except for the updates that all Rolex watches have received, it remained essentially the same watch. Today the watch retails for HKD$46,600 Rolex has announced an update to a 39mm case for the Explorer.

Explorer II: This model was introduced in the early 70's and was never widely distributed or popular until 1991. The original model was produced until the current model was released in 1985. The Explorer II uses the same movement as the GMT-II models and makes use of a secondary 24-hour hand that rotates once every day. The engraved steel bezel is stationary and was originally designed for speleologists (cave explorers) who can have a hard time determining if it is am or pm. Today its new Explorer II retails for HKD$50,500 and comes with only one choice: a black or a white dial. - Rolex Explorer Watches.

Oyster Perpetual: An odd name for a model considering every Rolex mentioned on this page is also an Oyster Perpetual... By itself, the "Rolex Oyster Perpetual" was basically the same as the smaller 34mm Air-King model. The Current Oyster Perpetual (no-date) is now the same size as the Datejust and comes only in steel or steel with white gold bezel. Rolex has introduced several unusual dials for this model. Retails start at $45,000 for the simplest ladies Oyster Perpetual and $42,000 for the simplest men's Oyster Perpetual. Both come standard with an Oyster bracelet.

Submariner: The Submariner was introduced by Rolex in 1954. The watch comes only on an Oyster bracelet and has a 40mm case. The steel model is only available with a black dial, and is one of the most recognizable Rolexes. Anniversary editions with green bezels can occasionally be found. The Submariner has the common single direction rotating diving bezel with minute markers for the first 15 minutes. The original models until 1958 are often considered "James Bond" models and have some easily recognizable difference. Primarily, they had a smaller crown, no crown guard, and the bezel only had minute markers every 5 minutes. In the late 70s the model 16800 was introduced. It sported the new sapphire crystal and quick-set function. In 1989, the 16610 was introduced with an improved movement and a more secure bezel, that is the most advanced and yet beautiful Submariner so far claimed by most of Submariner Collectors. In 2010, the 116610 was introduced with a ceramic (Cerachrom) bezel and improved “Glidelock” buckle. The Submariner is one the most popular models and comes in 4 styles, $49,900 for steel (no date), HKD$62,100 for steel (with date) for the new Ceramic model, $90,000 for 18k gold and; steel, and HKD$250,850 for the yellow gold model or HKD$263,600 for white gold.

Sea Dweller: The Sea Dweller was introduced in 1971 and discontinued in 2008. It is virtually the same watch as the Submariner. The only real differences are the thicker and heavier steel case, thicker crystal with no cyclops eye, and the helium escape valve useful only to deep divers. The original model was rated for 2000 feet and called the "Rolex Submariner 2000 Sea Dweller". It lost the "Submariner 2000" part of the title in 1973. The current issue, model 16600, is rated to 4000 feet and is sold only in steel. The Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA, model 116660, has replaced the Sea-Dweller model 16600 and retails for HKD$82,500. The DEEPSEA model offers a greater depth rating (to 12,800 feet) along with a thicker, larger case and an improved "Glidelock" buckle

GMT-Master: The 1950s were an exciting decade for Rolex and included the introduction of the classic GMT- Master. It was one of the first watches to utilize a second hour hand to indicate a second time zone. With the simple rotating 24 hour bezel, one could fairly easily tell the time in any time zone. The late 70s saw the introduction of the GMT-Master II which was basically the same, except now the user could easily adjust the 2nd hour hand with the crown in position 2. The steel models are only offered with black dials. The bezels are available in all black, red/ black, or red / blue. GMT's typically come with a Jubilee bracelet installed.

The original GMT-Master (16700) was phased out in the late 90s. The latest serial number Bernard's had for the 16700 was a U#, putting its birthday around 1997. With the flood of new models with a second time zone function from other manufactures, retiring it was a smart move, as most consumers will want to adjust the 2nd hour hand.

The GMT-Master II (16710) was discontinued in 2008 and replaced with the GMT-Master II (116710) The primary difference besides the 3186 caliber movement with Parachrom Bleu hairspring is the ceramic (Cerachrom) bezel. Some late production 16710s have been discovered with the 3186 movement.

The GMT-Master II with green hand retails for $62,100 in steel, HKD$91,500 in steel and gold, and HKD$256,000 for solid gold.

Daytona / Cosmograph: The story of the Rolex Cosmograph could be called the most chaotic of all the Rolex Oyster models. Rolex is keen on creating a winning product. The watch never really got off the ground until 1986 when the market for them exploded and the watches would often sell for double the retail price in Italy. The "Paul Newman" models manufactured around 1967 were and still are the most desirable of the Daytona models fetching prices over HKD$400,000. It retailed for around HKD$25,500 back then In 1989, Rolex replaced he Valjoux workhorse movement with the Zenith El Premiro movement. During the 1990s, the Daytona was the only Rolex model not using a Rolex movement. In 2000 came the newly developed Rolex caliber 4130 with a 72 hour power reserve. The steel 116520 retails at $84,000. Steel and Gold models retail for $113,000 and all 18K yellow gold for $265,000. Steel Daytona's have consistently sold for more than retail since the 1992. The two-tone and gold models do not sell for over retail, unlike their steel counterparts.

Note: Price listed here is rough estimation only, normally we can get 5% discount from Rolex AD in HK on these prices. Special Discount is available for certain model for some VIP. Contact me for more information.

HK Snob

Rolex White Gold Orchid

I bought this white gold dress watch for my mother in 1976 with HKD$5,500. She gave it to me recently after knowing that I am watch collector. This watch was never been serviced at all after 30 years. This is real good Rolex Quality, or may be my storage is Good. As I used to take out and let it run it for a couple of days before storing it again.

HK Snob

Rolex 15200 Date

This model is very basic and does not come with the fluted or machines bezel. The bezel on this watch is smooth and very plain looking. It is all time favourite work horse for men and women. Right size, right tone, right price and right Rolex Quality, can be used for all occasions, a friend of mine a VP for a Taiwanese company use this watch for 20 years, never been having any trouble, he did not send it to Rolex centre for service, even he came to walk with me for 100Km Trail walker with this watch for three years.
It is basic watch with Date, perpetual calendar, oyster strap, stainless still, nothing is made of gold, this is good for those people who is allergy for gold!
This example shows the Rolex registered design of the watch case. This particular watch is the 15200 design which is all stainless steel in construction.
Many older Rolex watches can still be found that have the original green hologram on the back of the watch case.
It is interesting that on this watch, the original hologram label has a Rolex crown that is a cross between the older Rolex crown design and the newer versions. The balls are larger as in the newer designs, but the length of the crown spires are still shorter than the older versions.

HK Snob

New 2012 Rolex Sky-Dweller

The Rolex 2012 Collection showcases Sky-Dweller was presented at BaselWorld 2012,

The New Rolex for global travelers, with two time zones and an annual calendar. Inspired with Rolex Engineering with 14 patented designs.

A particularly ingenious patented mechanism Saros annual calendar inspired by an astronomical phenomenon differentiates between 30-day and 31-day months, just four additional gear wheels. You need just one adjustment per year on the date!

With a revolutionary annual calendar offering unparalleled robustness and reliability for such a complex watchmaking function. This annual calendar’s qualities are attributable to an ingenious mechanism named Saros, patented by Rolex. Its original design was directly inspired by the astronomical phenomenon of the same name.

Discover the sophistication and simplicity of this revolutionary timepiece and explore the Sky-Dweller's features

Ref 32695 is come with new Calibre 9001, 40 rubies, reserved with 72 hours, 42mm Oyster Perpetual

A bit surprise on how it can maintain the water proof function between the bezel and the watch itself!? What a Rolex genius patented design!

Hontesy, looking at this picture not the real watch not until I can a real watch on my hand to review. Base on what I get from Rolex Website, it seems to me it is not too easy to read the information such as the month and the local time, and the local time zone dial is offset to one side without moving indicators, that is hard to read.

The Name Sky-Dweller sounds a bit uneasy to me, Sea Dweller is good name but not Sky-Dweller. Something Likes Flyer King, Traveller Master, World Traveller, Air Master, or something like Sky-Sniper, Air-Sniper, Air Chaser, Time Traverser, Air Speeder, Time Speeder, Air Transporter, City Voyager, Air Expedition, Time Expeditionist...can be considered etc...

Knowing that Rolex does not want to have drastic changes on th dial design and they want to move it graudually to test the public acceptance. Even the name, this may be the key factor of Rolex's Success!

Calibre
9001, Manufacture Rolex
Mechanical movement with bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor on ball bearing
Precision
Officially certified Swiss chronometer (COSC)
Functions
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
24-hour display on off-centre disc
Second time zone via independent rapid-setting of the hour hand
Instantaneous annual calendar at 3 o’clock with Saros system and unrestricted bidirectional rapid-setting of the date
Month display via 12 apertures around the circumference of the dial
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
Oscillator
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring
Breguet overcoil
Large balance wheel with variable inertia
High-precision regulating via four gold Microstella nuts
Traversing balance bridge
High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers
Jeweling
40 rubies
Power reserve
Approximately 72 hours

Specifications

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
Reference (case – Bracelet): 326939 – 72419
Case
Type: Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)
Diameter: 42 mm
Material: 18 ct white gold, polished finish
Case back: Screw-down with Rolex fluting
Bezel: Fluted, bidirectional rotatable Ring Command
Winding crown: Screw-down, Twinlock double waterproof system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant synthetic sapphire
Cyclops lens (2.5 ×) over the date, double anti-reflective coating
Waterproof: 100 metres (330 feet)
Dial
Colour: Ivory, satin finish
Hour markers: Roman numeral appliques in 18 ct white gold
Hands: 18 ct white gold with phosphorescent material
Bracelet
Type: Oyster, three-piece solid links
Material: 18 ct white gold, polished centre links and satin-finished outer links with polished edges
Clasp: Folding Oysterclasp
Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
Reference (case – Bracelet): 326938 – 72418
Case
Type: Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)
Diameter: 42 mm
Material: 18 ct yellow gold, polished finish
Case back: Screw-down with Rolex fluting
Bezel: Fluted, bidirectional rotatable Ring Command
Winding crown: Screw-down, Twinlock double waterproof system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant synthetic sapphire
Cyclops lens (2.5 ×) over the date, double anti-reflective coating
Waterproof: 100 metres (330 feet)
Dial
Colour: Champagne, sunray finish
Hour markers: Arabic numeral appliques in 18 ct yellow gold
Hands: 18 ct yellow gold with phosphorescent material
Bracelet
Type: Oyster, three-piece solid links
Material: 18 ct yellow gold, polished centre links and satin-finished outer links with polished edges
Clasp: Folding Oysterclasp
Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link


Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
Reference (case – strap): 326935 – Brown alligator leather
Case
Type: Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)
Diameter: 42 mm
Material: 18 ct Everose gold, polished finish
Case back: Screw-down with Rolex fluting
Bezel: Fluted, bidirectional rotatable Ring Command
Winding crown: Screw-down, Twinlock double waterproof system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant synthetic sapphire
Cyclops lens (2.5 ×) over the date, double anti-reflective coating
Waterproof: 100 metres (330 feet)
Dial
Colour: Chocolate, sunray finish
Hour markers: Arabic numeral appliques in 18 ct pink gold
Hands: 18 ct pink gold with phosphorescent material
StrapMaterial: Brown Alligator mississippiensis leather
Clasp: Folding Oysterclasp in 18 ct Everose gold

Only Solid Gold version is available, Hong Kong Rolex AD will have stock about September, Price TBA.
HK Snob

Rolex Ref 15238 Soild Gold Date Just

This watch was made for one discrete model with Solid Gold version, riveted Osyster solid gold bracelet, White Enamel like dial, Roman hour indicators. There is not stainless version on this model.

The one wearing one my hand is an exanple of excellent condition. I am a fan of Day Date, so Date just may becomes a bit less Poisonous to me...

But I do not mind to buy it if I had another HKD$62,000!

HK Snob

Rolex Flagship Model Day Date Ref 6611

The Day Date became Rolex's flagship. The first model (6511) lasted just over a year before it was replaced by the externally identical 6611 with caliber 1055 movement with its free sprung Micro-Stella balance and was the first to be labeled "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" on the dial. This new accuracy standard guaranteed the watch to remain within + 3.0 seconds per day. This is the official birth of the Rolex Legend model Day Date… I have been longing to see one.

Today, I can have one in my hand, it is original Ref 6611. The Rolex Day Date, the fluted bezel has a finer pitch, the hour Marks is a thick piece of wedge shaped sold gold set on the dial, there is “"Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” on the dial at the six o’clock position.

This model has been released for about two years only, there should not too many example of good condition Ref 6611. In 1959 caliber 1055 was replaced with caliber 1555 in model 1803 (18,000bph) and later In 1965 - model 1803 received caliber 1556 (19,800bph). In 1977 caliber 3055 (quick-set) was introduced in model 18038.

In 1988 caliber 3155 (double quick-set) was introduced in model 18238.
Caliber 3155 is the caliber still used today in all Day-Date models.

HK Snob

How to Take out the Ceramic Bezel of GMT Master

First of all, question is why I have to open the GMT Master bezel?
For the perfectionist like I, I may like to clean it regularly, I may need to re-align its capillarity, or angular position. Knowing from some one saying that the ceramic bezel was fixed on to the bottom ring by means of double sided self adhesive tape!? Is that Right? A HKD$62,100 watch is using adhesive tape to fix the bezel, I still have puzzled for this unbelievable concern, well not until I open it to see the real situation is!

This has to be done either via removing the entire bezel or the ceramic bezel. Removing the ceramic bezel seems to be the easier way since the bezel construction is a little different from the normal submariner bezels. But removing the ceramic bezel does pose some challenges in removing it cleanly and safely without destroying or scratching it.

I came across website telling us using a plastic sheet as the opening tool to wedge off
Through trial and error. The piece of plastic is those mounted on shirt's collar.Insert at the gap between the bezel and the crystal, work your way around the bezel. The bezel is attached using double sided tape and therefore it is quite easy to separate it.

Any crystal alignment can be done easily after the bezel is removed. We can clean by apply gasoline to remove the double sided tape adhesive residuals and fix it properly by
new adhesive tape. People may question why use tape and I will find out more. Thanks to the Orginal Blogger mentioned this to us as I have no time to open the Watch and check. It is a good topic for further investigate. I think Rolex has well thought about it.

HK Snob

Tudor Ref. 79090

This is Tudor 79090 Submariner 40mm.
Rolex case, Rolex Crown, acrylic Crystal Black Dial and powder coated dial.
No more in production and is hard to find in good condition, it is selling about HKD$18,000-28,000 depending on condition. Don't miss it.

HK Snob

Swatch Full Turn Night SVAZ104S

Designed for men, build in high-tech ceramics black light, surrounded the Carousel movement, with the parts to 25 ruby bearings through the sapphire crystal glass, clearly visible. The mechanical device is placed on the watch with all the components disk movement, such a design, a movement to consolidate the operation of parts in each group, with the balance wheel escapement and a perfect match to ensure that accurate when the meter is running. Gear and control system placed in the transfer tube, and to rotate twice per hour, the operation of the whole, the balance wheel and escapement, as the satellite-like, walking around the center of the watch, full of beauty. Diaphane One Full Turn Night encoding the global production of 200 limited edition.

Diaphane One Full Turn Night luxury mechanical watch making is definitely the best example for the style in the world only store a limited post-coding of individual SWATCH sale, Hong Kong has been placed two, number, respectively (N ° 80) and (N ° 81 .) Limited number engraved on the light inside the black ceramic, as well as watch the bottom of the case, and highlight the unique and noble identity.

As a Christmas Special 2010. with list Price tagged at HKD$82,000.00, butonly a few known nunits were sold in HK.

HK Snob

Watch Trend 2012-2017

Watch has been designed with change in size, the choice of different material, thickness, the way to display time…and design on the movement, from simple manual winding movement, Automatic winding, Day and Date display, Chronometers, Repeater, Alarm , Tourbillon, 2 Dimensional Movement tourbillon, Double Tourbillon, Diamond Like Coating case, Brass, Titanium, Carbon Composite material and Ceramic Composite compound…etc.

Size from 33 mm in the 50’s, moving up to 36 and 39 mm in 1970’s then going to smaller one like 23 mm for man and gradually increasing size in recent ten years and now even a size of 55mm an be found… A thickness of 20mm and a weight of 300 grams. It is almost the size of a Small Clock for your desk top!

Well, the trend is keep going, to maintain a comparatively large size even Rolex had to announce to go for 40mm for their Major production model Date Just, and The Explorer II new release has a size of 42mm..

What we can see is that more and more people have fed up with too many fancy but non-functioned features on a watch… moreover the watch has becoming more expensive with unreasonable price… A Simple Solid gold watch is in the range of HKD$220,000. a Skeleton Tourbillon is easily HK$2,000,000. a Double Tourbillon Skeleton in PT is HKD$4,500,000.

Is that a price for a Porsche, a Lamborghini or an Aston Martin? But the watch is weighed just about 150 grams.

Each gram of substance is costing about HKD$30,000.
Where as each gram of Ferrari Substance is just HKD$1.73 for a HKD$2,600,000 Ferrari!!

When I wake up tomorrow there will have more 10,000 Millionaires in China.. Who will be surprises if you not mark up your price that Higher!? How can you suck up all the money from these rich big spender who may buy the high end watch just looking at the high end price?… Now the highest market segment of Rolls Royce is in China., No more HK, US or Saudi Arabia…

Well, what is the trend of Watch making in the coming year?
I think there are a few streams

1. More and more people will look for thinner and Simpler watch dial design. like three or even two hands manual automatic watch. This can take up 10% of the High end market. This will be supported by Piaget, IWC, JLC, and VC.

2. More and more super complicated watch made in limited number for the collectors and act as show case for demonstrate the power of the Watch Company.

3. More cheaper watch plus a lot of add on function will be made for the rest 80% of most of the watch user from Mid Low Range of Swiss, Seiko, Citizen, Timex, Casio…

4. More and more Yellow or Rose Colour Gold will be made as comparing with the White Colour gold.. as we have been seeing enough White gold or Stainless watch in the past 10 years, we feel bore!

5. More and more individual watch maker will emerge as an independent watch brand to go for Higher end markets. The make small number of watch with stunning design and moderate complexity.

6. PP will be a did hard classic watch maker with less bold change on the major design , they are slowing migrating to the younger watch buyer esp. from China. A big more sportive image will be add on the basic Series. As young Rich Chinese below 30 will not appreciate the Classic Look of PP. They go AP and VC…

7. Swatch , once was the King of the watch hit in 1989-1995, and I believe they are making a Plastic Tourbillon for giving me a surprise of What A price for what’s a real pride!?

8. More fun watch will be made in the Easter Asian new designer like HK, Korea and Japan. And they will be made as a trendy stuff for the youth for low end or give-away items.

9. Rolex will be maintain his usual way of making different casing, new gadget on case and dial design , seeking new material for make their watch more durable and more reliable, rather than going in parallel with the higher end completion with complicated watch. Rolex Will never make any Tourbillon before 2016.

19. I am still a Fan of Rolex and this trend will not change.
HK Snob

A Thought of Time

Time is a part of the measuring system used to sequence events, to compare the durations of events and the intervals between them, and to quantify rates of change such as the motions of objects. The function of watch is used for telling the time. Time is the all datum for every event to be getting started, halted ongoing, and stop in this World, but not too sure if there is another Time used in other Universe?

No matter the world most Accurate and likely the most expensive Clock at National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST).It's accurate to one second in about 3.7 billion years. Or the one you are wearing on your wrist… No matter a few thousand dollar gold watch or some two dollar cheapo you bought from the Sham Shui Po hawkers. They function the same: tell the time…
Time seems to be abstract, time moves on second by second, day by day, year by year, can only have one direction, as displayed on your watch so called Clockwise direction.

There is numerous scientist had been spent life time effort to retard the time, not to mention to reverse it. So far, there seems have no way to do anything about it. I saw Nicholas Cage movie "Next" that he could possibly see the future that it would happen two minutes later and that seems he can control the world as CIA would track him down for helping US Governement to defuse a terrorist nuclear bomb! This is in the fiction or movie but in the real life.

We can count time on our watch, every tick tac of second represents that you have been aged exactly for that amount. We have been lucky survived for that moment. And in present time of moment we should treasure it. Many Watch collector keep their expensive, limited and special with in the safe. While the power reserve indicator show “Zero” it has no power start the fly wheel. I do think it is pity, as the watch maker has been spending tedious effort to make such a great watch, but it becomes an investment article in the dark and cold safe.

If I were him, I will put it on my hand and every moment I see the seconds hand moving it tells me our life is going on, and the left our known friends, lovers are going on. What a wonderful moment and seconds we can hear this little piece of watch movement keep time accurate, never steal you a second.

Let's enjoy our life and let' pay a little bit of respect to the Time. No matter is displayed by the triple complication Patek phillippe, Paul Newman Daytona, an Audemars Piguet, Swatch, Seiko It does not matter to you, they work almost the same. As different people has their own way to appreciate time and his watch. It is important that you have to treasure it, as by tomorrow, my watch may still moving but my life won’t go on!

Treasure your time of every second with you watch, your family members, your lovers, fiancée, or mistress.
HK Snob

Roger Dubuis Velvet

Since 1995, Roger Dubuis has earned appreciation from the Chinese big spenders, discerning Watch connoisseurs, private collectors, and Celebrity. With fine Swiss horologer achievement and Company strategy to offer every watch made for qualifying for stamping “Genève Seal”.
This is a new design to offer those sophisticated ladies a time piece on her writs at same time a piece of jewelry. But not too much as a show off of glittering of precious gems.
The way they inlay the diamonds are just for the right design need. And not to uncover the precise Movement under the case.
The Velvet Watch is employing the RD821 movement which is made of 172 components. The Whole watch is entirely developed, hand-made assembled in the Roger Dubuis Ateliers.
Exterior was a black Technical prowess of black DLC treatment solid Titanium. An audacious and unseen combination of colours, reflecting the dramatic and dark beauty of our "Incredible Diva" universe.
· This Velvet watch design is made in Titanium with DLC feature;
· 36mm in diameter.
· One round of Amethysts and Black Diamonds on the side;
· 100% In-house automatic movement;
· With Genève Quality Hall Mark and COSC Certificate.
This watch is selling at HKD$308,000.00.
PS
Diamond-like-carbon (DLC) coatings are a particular area of expertise on surface treatment for both colour and hardness. Among PVD & PaCVD coating compositions and technology, DLC coatings stand out as a particularly distinctive category. These coatings exhibit a desirable combination of a low coefficient of friction and high micro-hardness, making them extremely effective in many tribological and wear applications.
DLC coatings are formed when ionized and decomposed carbon or hydrocarbon species land on the surface of a substrate with energy typically 10-300eV. DLC films may possess exceptional mechanical (high hardness), optical (high optical band gap), electrical (high electrical resistivity), chemical (inert) and tribological (low friction and wear coefficient) properties and can be deposited at low substrate temperature (<200°).
It is a new way to apply the treatment on the surface of the metal like Stainless steel or Titanium, this will ensure the metal surface to be hard enough for durability, black as the desire colour of the watch designer, and smoothness for extra wearing comfort.
Roger Dubuis made it on Titanium has a ultra light weight for the lady to wear. It is an expensive process and the yield is low, so as the cost will be high.
AP, Hubolt, Richard Miller Panerai and Cartier has a few launched models using this DLC process on their watch.
HK Snob

World's Most Expensive Watch Ever sold!

Sotheby's experts estimated that this watch would sell for between $3 million and $5 million, but due to intense competition, bids soared to more than $11 million in 1999. With 24 complications or functions and two faces. This 18kt yellow-gold pocket watch took four years to build and still holds the record for the most expensive watch (non jewelery watch) ever sold. It is Patek Philippe Cal. 89. Only one is known to be produced!
If Patek Philippe produces two pieces, the auction price will not that high, it may reach 3 millions only... As this is a very heavy pocket watch which you never want to wear it in your pocket!
HK Snob

What’s the best Rolex for investment?

Many people talks about using Watch for an investment, yes that is right if you go for certain limited production for some branded watch like Patek Philipe, Audemars Piguet, Rolex… we can check out the hot items in the watch auctions. An investment watch has certain basic requirement:
1. Limited units available
2. Beautiful design or feature.
3. Sophisticated movement
4. That Watch will not be produced as a retro version as new anymore.
5. Timing (factors like Trend, preference on colour, size, material) *
If you said buying a new Rolex and put it in safe waiting for the price to go up and earn money, that may not be practical, as they are production watch, and those are new, you may have to wait for many decades to see that watch could offset inflation to return you some dollars.
Simply as I say No Rolex should be purchased with a perceived notion of investment....
They should be worn and enjoyed! Or more precisely having said that, almost all Rolex watches will hold their value in the long haul, but will loose out in the short term.
Watches should not be bought as an investment. Buy the one you like and enjoy it. If it goes up in value that's great!
If buying with the sole reason not to loose money on a future resale then buy second hand as most of the depreciation would already have been taken.
Your best bet to buy a Pre Owned Submariner, GMT or SS Daytona. They seem to hold their value pretty good in the used market.
I bought a 1950 bubble gold 14K Rolex in 1986 at HKD$5,000 from Kiu Tai Yu. After using it for almost 8 years and then I sold to some one with HKD$18,000 … and that watch price kept going up to HKD$38,000 in 1996. but due to the trend for watch size was going BIG, that Bubble back Rolex was not able to further appreciate much after 1997.
If I were you, at age over 38. I have no hesitation to recommend you to buy a used Day Date Ref. 18038 (Rolex Flag ship model). For your daily uses,
This is one that has its own specialty, the dial is beautiful, even colour, brown orange colour that is eye-catching even from a distance, Sapphire crystal for scratch proof, watch proof is not a question for Rolex, Day date is best for man like I to remind me the important of the day and time. Perpetual Auto rotor keeps power reserve for min. 42 hours. Price, estimated to be HKD$44,000…and I am sure the price will move up with inflation.
It is not an investment item, but after 10 years, you may able to get back at least HKD$35,200. So it costs you HKD$9.6 a day to own this watch.
If you don’t like Day Date, simply go for s used Submariner, GMT Master I or II.
Talking about real investment, we have better go to buy some blue chip when Hang Seng Index goes down to 18,000 points.

Note * a very ugly colour like Mandarin Yellow or Stella (Red) in the 60's which no one wanted, and was made only a few units... now it is likely to be very rare and expensive.

HK Snob

Jaeger LeCoultre Futurematic

 

I have seen a lot of Gold plated Jaeger LeCoultre Futrurematic. This is Solid Gold just has been restored.

It is very Stylish with Art Deco design arrangement of Dial.

Red Indicator on the left is power reserve Indicator. An interesting Watch with hidden crown. However if you are easy to sweat in Summer, you had better do not wear it, as the sweat will easily goes into the watch through the gap between the crown and the case.

The Automatic winding is running by a tiny swinging hammer with two spring dampers on both end of the rotating axis. The Winding up efficency is low comparing with centrifugal rotor.

HK Snob

Britian's Most Honest Man!?

The 28-year-old Aaron Large spotted the first timepiece while jet-washing a roadside drain a week ago! Striking gold: Mr Large was cleaning a drain near Chalkwell train station in Essex when he saw a glimmer amongst the dirt. He found a Rolex Daytona, Well., the watch as in the ditch!? That would be a good ad or Sales gimmick for Rolex as it is not being spoiled by the dirty water and contamination. Will you return the Daytona to Police station when you pick up a Rolex!? He later found two more; OneFrank Muller and an Omega.. Can I say Aaron Large is Britian’s most honest Man!?
Britian Snob

The Thinner The Better: Piaget

Piaget was founded in 1874 by Georges Edouard Piaget. Piaget is widely known for its magnificent jeweled dress watches - and for its Polo line of watches which has been redesigned into various incarnations over its 25 year history. In 1956 Piaget launched the first mechanical ultra thin movement with manual winding 9P calibre. They became the masters of ultra thin movements. Later on in 1960 they manufactured another ultra thin movement the 12P which landed them in the Guinness Book of Records as the thinnest self-winding movement (2.3 mm) in the world. Piaget is also recognized though for its watch movements and parts that are often used by other watch manufacturers (particularly Cartier and other brands in the Richemont watch group)
Attached Picture shows Altiplano manual 9P (1957) and automatic 12P (1960)

The other is the world's thinnest Auto movement 12P from Piaget!HK Snob

The Thin Cult Classic Universal Gold Shadow

In the 60s, Universal has made the thinnest watch I have ever seen, remember I went to see a displayed Universal at Swiss Watch Company at Central, I stayed there for 10 minutes from side to see how thin it was. That is so thin that is not thicker than one HK dollar coin. The price was about HKD$1,300, don't forget that an Rolex Date Just Two Tone was selling at HKD$1760 in 1976, So you can tell that this watch is very expensive in the year of 1965. That was Universal Golden Shadow and White Shadow were first produced in 1965 and were the thinnest automatic watch movements at the time, with a thickness of only 2.3mm. This record was held until 1978. The Shadows were also designed by Gerald Genta who invented the Famous AP Royal and PP Nautilus and were available in 18K yellow and white gold as the Golden Shadow, and in stainless steel as the White Shadow. Both watches contained the Caliber 2-66 micro rotor movement up until the late 1960s.
These GOLDEN SHADOWS are highly sought after and very difficult to find, I would go as far to say they are considered to be a cult classic amongst collectors. Universal Geneve was founded in 1894 and today produces EXTREMELY expensive watches. in If you are seeking a slim, spectacular looking and high quality dress watch; and also want it to be modest in size-here it is!

HK Snob

Vintage Rado SeaHorse and the latest Rado made of Ceramos Material

Rado Seahorse is a High grade Swiss automatic with Rado's famous rotating anchor. This Swiss made watch is an automatic, and has the date at the three o'clock spot. The watch also features a sweep secondhand. I bought Rado Seahorse in 1970, I remember the sea horse was blue. It was HKD$120.00.
It was a very durable watch, I had put the watch in the top Cold storage compartment of my Refrigerator overnight and next day I put it in hot waterr to study how durable the watch could be… and it was passed. I used to play watch Tug of war by resting the watch ‘s crown on my other watch’s crown and see which watch was going to stop first, It was a common Game we played for watch in the 70’s.
The next picture is the latest Rado Ceramos material to make watch, There seems has some shadow of the 70’s Seahorse. I had found another Art Deco Design Oval shaped Rado. That is a good example of beautiful Rado!
Anyway, the Rado was one of the watch I had in the 70.
HK Snob
Ps
Ceramos® evolves from the platinum-coloured high-tech ceramic which Rado introduced in 1993. This ceramic and metal composite was designed to have the optimal properties of both components. Today Ceramos® accommodates a unique platinum steel look for use in sharp, edgy designs. It is a light material, which adjusts quickly to skin temperature, offering unrivalled comfort levels when used to make watch bracelets and cases. It is hard as up to Vickers hardness at least 1200, which is harder than Gold, Steel and Platinum. Ceramos is super resistant to scratches. Hardness of Diamond is Vickers 10,000.

This is my first Omega Classic De Ville.

I bought this watch at one small watch shop in Kowloon City with HKD$1,080 in 1981. After 5 years, I sold it to one of my best friends KM Chan at HKD$800. He has been using this watch for many years. Omega had once produced the best watch in the 60's till 80's. You know that Omega was once more expensive than Rolex in the same category and class. But After 80's Rolex overtaken Omega in price and also in quality.
Today, whilst we had a tea with KM in the morning, I saw that watch again, he knows and every year whilst we meet, he worn that watch and showed me! But he never want to sell it back to me!
This is the first Omega I had first purchased. I can see the plating of gold is so thick that it looks 80 microns; is that Older is always better!? Note Also the Art Deco dial Design, it is beautiful, classic, simple, accurate and thin! What else you want from HKD$1,080?
HK Snob

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

In 1952, the French "Nageuers de combat" (combat swimmers) was instituted by the French government as an elite team of tactical soldiers - the NAVY Seals of France. Captain Bob Maloubier was at the helm of this group, whose missions included underwater intelligence, sabotaging operations, and clandestine port-attacks. The team was already using tools such as compasses, depth gauges, and yes, watches, but none were specifically designed for the rugged tasks at hand. He was the original Designer for Fifty Fathoms, and he approached LIP and then the very small company of Blancpain to make this diving watch for him, that was 1954. Today there are about 20 variations of Blancpain and I used to have one A "No Radiations" Model From 1966. but I looked at the case carefully, and saw that there are very rough case profile and I suspected that was a fake,, and in fact I had not so much knowledge at that time, so I sold it to some one, Today, I fell regret as that is a rare watch, and that is beautiful. How Can I get this watch again!?
The picture shown here is the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms limited to 500 pcs Only.
Blancpain had announced that they produce mechanical watch only and never will make any quartz watch! This may be the only one swiss company that can definitely say they produce Mechanical watch only.
HK Snob

Breitling Navitimer

Breitling Navitimer is a great name that went back to 1954, The original Breitling Navigation & Time was developed as a navigator watch for Pilots, who could use the slide rule to calculate remaining distance, fuel consumption, beside the time keeping.
It can be classified as one of the most important watches for flying professions besides Rolex GMT Master and it has gone through so many years and likely four generations of Design Changes, It is one of the most durable, beautiful and presentable cult watch for air borne flyer.
HK Snob
The Picture was taken at HKIA by Nolia N97 mini Hand set.
Ps This gentleman has a complete collection of Breitling Navitimer.
http://people.timezone.com/breitling/bfaq/Reviews--Navitimer.html

What we would buy for your beloved one in Saint Valentines’ Day?

* Courtesy of Cartier

Life is a time-series of romances a continuum of events and eipsodes that takes us through all peaks and valleys, something faster than we can feel. Time moves in haste, but one thing for sure makes its stand still:Love! Buy a watch for your wife, mistress, parents, daughters and sons... that will keep your intimate relationhsip last till that watch can move...Someone says that it is not necesary to buy anything other than a bunch of flowers.
I would rather prefer watch as whenever she looks at the watch, she might remember you.
Of course if you can afford, buy a Rolex, as its value would likely been maintaining as money tends to depreciating year after year.
For those who are still not going to marry or your budget is limited. You can consider something functional, unique and beautiful. We have found that Lancaster Italy has some beautiful creation of watch, likely not too expensive, in the range of HKD$2,000.
This Lancaster Italy Bongo men's watch is a real Italian statement watch. The sharp black dial along with the black rubber band is sure to dazzle all your friends. It is for men.
How about a gift for girl, well, Rolex Ref 179175, 178274, 179171, 179173, 179171, 178240 or if budget allows go for a Ref 179159. Needless to say a Submariner Ref 116610 LV for after-office usage. If budget is tight, a Technomarine, a Philip Stern, Longines, Movado or a Swatch!

How about a Cartier Ballon Bleu W69002Z2 Pink Gold White Gold with inlaid Diamonds for the sophisticated feminine lady? It does not matter what kind of watch, so long it is from you she will like it.
HK Snob

History of Rolex's Flag Ship: Date Day

The Rolex Day Date across the world has become synonymous with class, taste and style. This watch remains one of the most prestigious additions a man can have to his wardrobe.

The Birth of Date Day
The 6511 the "Day Date" had a window at 12 spelling out the day at 12 and the date was shown at 3. Patented July 23. 1955 - officially Released in 1956 after Rolex had been enjoying quite a barren spell in the sale of its complicated timepieces it soon began to revive fortune..

President Bracelet
An additional day and date discs and a screw down back it was a very large and thick watch which gave it presence on the wrist. Due to the complexity of the watch, with its automatic movement,. Introduced as a niche model it soon gained the popularity it deserved and after the introduction of the concealed clasp (concealed clasp was offer as $75 option in 1969) it was known as the "President".

Flag Ship Model
The Day Date became Rolex's flagship. The first model (6511) lasted just over a year before it was replaced by the externally identical 6611 with caliber 1055 movement with its free sprung Micro-Stella balance and was the first to be labeled "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" on the dial. This new accuracy standard guaranteed the watch to remain within + 3.0 seconds per day.
Date Day Caliber
In 1959 caliber 1055 was replaced with caliber 1555 in model 1803 (18,000bph) and later In 1965 - model 1803 received caliber 1556 (19,800bph).
In 1977 caliber 3055 (quick-set) was introduced in model 18038.
In 1988 caliber 3155 (double quick-set) was introduced in model 18238.
Caliber 3155 is the caliber still used today in all Day-Date models.


President Watch
The Day Date earned the nickname the "President" when Rolex reportedly gave one to the then President of the United States Dwight Eisenhower. Some sources say that President Eisenhower was actually given a Date Just with the presidential bracelet. But it is a fact that several other US presidents are known to wear Day-Date (Roosevelt, Kennedy, Johnson, Nixon, Ford, Reagan, but seems Clinton, Bush and Obama does not wear Rolex Date Day, that may indicate that the recent US President has lost their glory on the wrist than in the past! (Clinton had a Roger Dubuis Muchmore, George Bush Worn a Cheap Electronics Digital watch and Obama has a few including a Tag Huer.)


Shape of the Date Day
These early models appeared rather bulky. In their never ending quest to modernize the basic configuration of the Day Date, Rolex have changed from the bulbous bubbleback look of the early models to the slender shape employed today.
With only a few mild case design changes over the year the first modification to the Day Date was the addition of the hack feature in about 1972. This allowed the second hand to be stopped dead if you wanted to set the time via a preset accurate source.


Material for Date Day
The Day Date was available in white gold, yellow gold, pink gold and platinum although in early 70's the pink gold watch was fazed out. If you had a Date Day in stainless steel, that is a prototype and that can be a great treasure in Auction.

Quick Set
The "Quick set" feature (caliber 3055) solved one of the watches biggest problems. Introduced in the late 1970's Quick set was introduced to all Rolex models by 1983. Instead of turning the crown round and round to change the day the wearer could just pull the button out half way and a few turns at most and the correct date was displayed.

Sapphire Crystal
The introduction of the quick set feature also coincided with other developments for the Day Date. The inclusion of the sapphire crystal not only gave the watch a sleeker look but also added to the durability of the watch. Introduced in 1977, the sapphire crystal fitted tighter than the plastic glass employed before and rendered the watch glass scratch proof near enough. The early Day Date models were waterproof to 165 feet (50 meters) while the current model is safe at depths of up to 100 meters. At the same time the current model is much slimmer.

Double Quick Set
Introduced in 1988/89 was the "Double Quick Set" watch with caliber 3155. This was model 18238 and it made the setting of the Day and Date even easier as they could both be done on the button. Rolex has also increasingly expanded their "Crown Collection" to include all types of precious stones by now although they were available with diamonds on the bezel from their introduction.


Pink Gold Date Day
From the end of 2000 the Day Date has been available in pink gold again. The watch has also been introduced with slightly redesigned case with polished lugs, smooth bezel is now domed, a domed sapphire crystal, solid center links on now heavier bracelet and can also come on an oyster bracelet to bring it in line with many of their other models.
Sham Shui Po Snob

2012, Audemars Piguet Celebrates Royal Oak's 40th Anniversary

It has been 40 yeas after the likely one of most beautiful watch designs was invented by Gerald Genta in 1972, with continuously applause of such beautiful Watch by watch lovers all over the World, a new Memorial Royal Oak design is created in 2012.
Since the timeless 2121 movement was introduced in its Royal Oak case in 1972, with movement thickness of 3.05mm, one of the World’s thinnest mechanical Automatic movement, it provides the Hour, Minutes and Second, Date Display function. In 2012, AP introduces a new Tourbillon ultra thin Skeleton masterpiece. The movement is still assembled with meticulous procedure as AP did 40 years ago. The Skeleton Watch case installed the State-of-The-Art tourbillon module, recalled the World First Tourbillon Automatic AP which shocked the World in 1986.
The new movement is Cal. 2924 is new with tourbillon assembly placed in a yet delicate but super tough Platinum dark grey case of 41mm with mere 4.46mm thick. The Power drum is Yellow gold which has a drastic Colour contrast with the case. Highly appreciatible! The Time display is on the front and Power reserve indicator on the back is the design layout.
Frequency is 21,600 CPS (3 Hertz) with power reserve up to 70 hours. Whole watch has 110 parts that are required hand polish, individual numbered for a limited 40 pieces only.
Price, yet to be advised.

I had the first AP Royal Oak Jumbo and that was numbered as XX…Today, this is only 40 Pieces, Who is the lucky one who can afford to own One. I would not hesitate to buy one if I could have that kind of money. Men’s dream and AP Royal Oak, Watch Lovers' dream.
Besides, AP made a decision to enlarge the Royal Oak from a base line of 39mm to 41mm, to meet the trend of "tend to be Larger” So there will be more prominent outlook with the new 41mm size of a Royal Oak you buy in 2012. Definitely it can catch more admirers from distant faraway opposite the Nathan Road.
Nathan Road Snob