Thursday, March 29, 2012

Ball Engineer Master II Diver TMT

Ball sold jewelry, silverware, clocks, and watches, from his small shop near the railroad tracks in Cleveland in the 1880s. Due to a fatal wreck in 1891 in Kipton, Ohio the General Superintendent of the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern Railroad appointed Ball as Chief Inspector to investigate the industry's timekeeping practices and formulate inspection standards. He served the railroad industry well and soon, his standardization policy was in place throughout 125,000 miles of track in the USA, Canada and Mexico.

Ball watches are perhaps one of the best known names in railroad watches. However, they did not make watches. Webb C. Ball, founder of the Ball Watch Co. of Cleveland, Ohio was the driving force behind the development of the extremely accurate class of watches "approved for railroad service".

In 1891, seizing the opportunity, Ball contracted with watch companies such as Elgin, Waltham Hamilton, E. Howard, Hampden and others, to provide him with watch movements that met his strict standards. He then inserted these movements into high quality cases that bore the name of the Ball Watch Company on the outside. By 1908, the Ball Watch company was furnishing high grade pocket watches to over 100 different railroad systems. Since then, pocket watches that bore the Ball watch company name have been considered to be the Rolls-Royce of Railroad pocket watches.

At BALL Watch, innovation and creativity are the cornerstones on the foundation of the corporate mission, "Accuracy Under Adverse Conditions". Continuing in the tradition of Webster Clay Ball, BALL Watch aspires to manufacture the most accurate mechanical watches on the planet, ruggedized for use by those that live / work / play in truly adverse conditions. With unlimited inspiration, BALL is today setting the standards just as Webster Clay Ball did in the late 1800s and through the early 1900s. Most of BALL Watch equipped with ETA movement modified for Ball’s tough application specification in Switzerland.

All BALL Watches are a 7,500 G force shock resistance, the -40 degree Celsius temperature rating, and a patented crown protection system.

Attached is the limited Engineer M aster II Diver TMT watch limited 2006 pieces. The sample show here is 0555, made in year of 2006. a Solid built Automatic watch strong to last, beautiful to be eye-catching, cost effective for everyone could afford. It was Sold at About HKD $12,500.00

Note the word T-25, it stands for the life time of GTLS stands for Gaseous Tritium Light Sources, these are tiny glass vials with a thin coating of Phosphorescent substance on the inside wall. Filled with Tritium gas and then sealed tight with a laser beam. Tritium (H3) is a radioactive isotope of Hydrogen, It has a half life of 12.3 years. During the decay of Tritium, a low energy electron is emitted. This process so called beta Radiation. During this process of decay the tritium molecule becomes a stable Helium molecules. The emitted electron hits the thin coating of Phosphorescent substance and is converted into visible cold light. The colour of the light depends on the types of the phosphorescent substance being used. The life time of it is 12.3x2 = 25 years, that was what it printed as T-25, Tritium 25 years!

HK Snob

Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Rolex Survives from the Top of the World to the Bottom of the Sea

On 23 Jan 1960, a Rolex was carried with the Trieste on his virgin historic dive to 10,916 Metres at World’s deepest place under Mariana Trench at the west Pacific Ocean, near Guam.
After 52 years, on 26 March 2012, Nat Geo Explorer in –residence James Cameron, on board the Deepsea Challenge prepared for go deeper. Another new Rolex is part of the deep dive Expedition: A Rolex Sea Dweller marked Deepsea Challenge.
Rolex builds its most popular Sport watch for many fans over the years, Submariner is still the best seller of all the professional diver watch.
The Company, Rolex itself is unique in that it is still privately owned and that the principal shareholder is a private family trust all of whose profits are given to charity. Due to this unique structure it does not have to concern itself with short-term profit goals and can therefore plan for the long term. Rolex is one of the largest producer for Hi Quality Chronometers in Switzerland after, Rolex does not have Tourbillon, nor repeater, However, Rolex is without doubt the most recognized watch in the world, what is not so well known is that the modern Rolex is the basis of almost all modern watches. The waterproof case, the self winding movement, the date window in the dial, the GMT two time zone watch and the diving watch are all Rolex inventions. Go to your near Rolex Authorized Dealer and put down your VISA Credit card then…Select a Rolex DeepSea or Submariner or you!

HK Snob

Sunday, March 25, 2012

All Major Rolex Models and Price discount in Hong Kong Rolex Authorized Dealers

For many people who keeps on aking me price of Rolex, and there are 500 comment asking the same questions about the current price of Rolex, I had hard time to reply but supported by friends who is working in Rolex AD and Dealers, I still manage to update them with latest price, but due to Swiss France appreciation in 2011, at the same time HK Dollars is pegged with green back. Rolex has adjusted the price 4 times in 2011, and 5 times for Tudor. In So far, Rolex has yet announced the price changes…Good luck!
But It is hard to track the price soon as I can see there will be price changes soon as Rolex did every year, an average of 10-15% increase in the past 10 years, So why not I put a rough estimation on every of the major models…

The Models: Rolex currently produces around a dozen different Oyster Perpetual models. Rolex also has their dress line, Orchid 50-60 and later Cellini. For ladies they make the 23mm Oyster-Perpetual, 26mm Date & Datejust, and 29mm Yacht-Master. In mid-size, you can get the 31mm Datejust or 35mm Yacht-Master (the only sport model offered in a case smaller than 40mm). Lastly there are the gents: 34mm Date & Air-King; 36mm Datejust, Explorer & President; and the 40mm Daytona, Explorer II, GMT-Master-II, Sea-Dweller, Submariner, and Yacht-Master. The new one like Explorer II, Sky-Dweller is made of a larger size of 42mm.
Some models like the gents Datejust currently have about 10 model numbers in production... The numbers help differentiate the different metals and bezels used. Dial colors are not included, so that leaves one with dozens of new Datejust choices... The Sea-Dweller in comparison is offered only in steel, only with a black dial, and only as Ref. 16600

Air-King: The Air-King could be considered the "entry level" model from Rolex. Current models retail for HKD$43,000 with the smooth bezel fitted, with the engine turned bezel, or HKD$49,000 with the White Gold bezel. It is 34mm in diameter and comes with an Oyster bracelet by default. The Air-King does not have a Date. In the 1970s, the Air-King was offered with a date and in gold & steel combinations which was rare! Those two variations likely ceased production since they are redundant next to the Date and Oyster Perpetual models. Rolex Air-King Watches.

Date: The Rolex Date is 34mm like the Air-King, but it obviously includes a date function. Its production began in the late 1950s, around the time the steel Datejust was introduced. Retails range from HKD$45,000 with a smooth bezel and Oyster bracelet to HKD$60,500 with an 18K white gold fluted bezel and diamond markers. The date model was once offered in 3 flavors: steel, 18k yellow & steel, and all 18k yellow gold. It is now only available in steel.

Datejust: The Datejust is the best selling Rolex model on the market, 60% of Rolex model is Datejust and has been for decades. It was first introduced in 1945. The gents model is 36mm in diameter and typically came on a Jubilee bracelet. Rolex seems to have changed their tradition on this and is sending more Datejust models out the door with the Oyster band. Models with smooth bezels are available, but less common. Most have the fluted bezel, which is 18k white gold on the steel model.

The Datejust was only available in gold until 1957 (conveniently a year after the release of the Day-Date which still has never seen a steel model). The steel Datejust was introduced and became an instant success. Rolex soon saw the steel variations selling much quicker than their gold models. Rolex countered this in 1962 when they introduced the gold and steel version..

Ladies Date/Datejust: These two models use the same 26mm case mold and offer the exact same functionality. Rolex discontinued the ladies Date, there was so much overlap in the models that it seemed long overdue. Retails range from HKD$46,600 for the most current 171960 steel Datejust. The more popular Datejust with White gold bezel retails for HKD$49,000. The Gold & Steel models start at HKD$606,00 (179173) and go up to HKD$97,000 for a 179313 with diamond mother of pearl dial and 12 diamond bezel.

Explorer: It was introduced in 1954, and has had one look through-out its life; a black dial with Arabic numbers at 3', 6' and 9', no date, smooth bezel, Oyster bracelet, and a stainless steel 36mm case. Except for the updates that all Rolex watches have received, it remained essentially the same watch. Today the watch retails for HKD$46,600 Rolex has announced an update to a 39mm case for the Explorer.

Explorer II: This model was introduced in the early 70's and was never widely distributed or popular until 1991. The original model was produced until the current model was released in 1985. The Explorer II uses the same movement as the GMT-II models and makes use of a secondary 24-hour hand that rotates once every day. The engraved steel bezel is stationary and was originally designed for speleologists (cave explorers) who can have a hard time determining if it is am or pm. Today its new Explorer II retails for HKD$50,500 and comes with only one choice: a black or a white dial. - Rolex Explorer Watches.

Oyster Perpetual: An odd name for a model considering every Rolex mentioned on this page is also an Oyster Perpetual... By itself, the "Rolex Oyster Perpetual" was basically the same as the smaller 34mm Air-King model. The Current Oyster Perpetual (no-date) is now the same size as the Datejust and comes only in steel or steel with white gold bezel. Rolex has introduced several unusual dials for this model. Retails start at $45,000 for the simplest ladies Oyster Perpetual and $42,000 for the simplest men's Oyster Perpetual. Both come standard with an Oyster bracelet.

Submariner: The Submariner was introduced by Rolex in 1954. The watch comes only on an Oyster bracelet and has a 40mm case. The steel model is only available with a black dial, and is one of the most recognizable Rolexes. Anniversary editions with green bezels can occasionally be found. The Submariner has the common single direction rotating diving bezel with minute markers for the first 15 minutes. The original models until 1958 are often considered "James Bond" models and have some easily recognizable difference. Primarily, they had a smaller crown, no crown guard, and the bezel only had minute markers every 5 minutes. In the late 70s the model 16800 was introduced. It sported the new sapphire crystal and quick-set function. In 1989, the 16610 was introduced with an improved movement and a more secure bezel, that is the most advanced and yet beautiful Submariner so far claimed by most of Submariner Collectors. In 2010, the 116610 was introduced with a ceramic (Cerachrom) bezel and improved “Glidelock” buckle. The Submariner is one the most popular models and comes in 4 styles, $49,900 for steel (no date), HKD$62,100 for steel (with date) for the new Ceramic model, $90,000 for 18k gold and; steel, and HKD$250,850 for the yellow gold model or HKD$263,600 for white gold.

Sea Dweller: The Sea Dweller was introduced in 1971 and discontinued in 2008. It is virtually the same watch as the Submariner. The only real differences are the thicker and heavier steel case, thicker crystal with no cyclops eye, and the helium escape valve useful only to deep divers. The original model was rated for 2000 feet and called the "Rolex Submariner 2000 Sea Dweller". It lost the "Submariner 2000" part of the title in 1973. The current issue, model 16600, is rated to 4000 feet and is sold only in steel. The Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA, model 116660, has replaced the Sea-Dweller model 16600 and retails for HKD$82,500. The DEEPSEA model offers a greater depth rating (to 12,800 feet) along with a thicker, larger case and an improved "Glidelock" buckle

GMT-Master: The 1950s were an exciting decade for Rolex and included the introduction of the classic GMT- Master. It was one of the first watches to utilize a second hour hand to indicate a second time zone. With the simple rotating 24 hour bezel, one could fairly easily tell the time in any time zone. The late 70s saw the introduction of the GMT-Master II which was basically the same, except now the user could easily adjust the 2nd hour hand with the crown in position 2. The steel models are only offered with black dials. The bezels are available in all black, red/ black, or red / blue. GMT's typically come with a Jubilee bracelet installed.

The original GMT-Master (16700) was phased out in the late 90s. The latest serial number Bernard's had for the 16700 was a U#, putting its birthday around 1997. With the flood of new models with a second time zone function from other manufactures, retiring it was a smart move, as most consumers will want to adjust the 2nd hour hand.

The GMT-Master II (16710) was discontinued in 2008 and replaced with the GMT-Master II (116710) The primary difference besides the 3186 caliber movement with Parachrom Bleu hairspring is the ceramic (Cerachrom) bezel. Some late production 16710s have been discovered with the 3186 movement.

The GMT-Master II with green hand retails for $62,100 in steel, HKD$91,500 in steel and gold, and HKD$256,000 for solid gold.

Daytona / Cosmograph: The story of the Rolex Cosmograph could be called the most chaotic of all the Rolex Oyster models. Rolex is keen on creating a winning product. The watch never really got off the ground until 1986 when the market for them exploded and the watches would often sell for double the retail price in Italy. The "Paul Newman" models manufactured around 1967 were and still are the most desirable of the Daytona models fetching prices over HKD$400,000. It retailed for around HKD$25,500 back then In 1989, Rolex replaced he Valjoux workhorse movement with the Zenith El Premiro movement. During the 1990s, the Daytona was the only Rolex model not using a Rolex movement. In 2000 came the newly developed Rolex caliber 4130 with a 72 hour power reserve. The steel 116520 retails at $84,000. Steel and Gold models retail for $113,000 and all 18K yellow gold for $265,000. Steel Daytona's have consistently sold for more than retail since the 1992. The two-tone and gold models do not sell for over retail, unlike their steel counterparts.

Note: Price listed here is rough estimation only, normally we can get 5% discount from Rolex AD in HK on these prices. Special Discount is available for certain model for some VIP.
Contact me for more information.

HK Snob

Rolex White Gold Orchid

I bought this white gold dress watch for my mother in 1976 with HKD$5,500. She gave it to me recently after knowing that I am watch collector. This watch was never been serviced at all after 30 years. This is real good Rolex Quality, or may be my storage is Good. As I used to take out and let it run it for a couple of days before storing it again.

HK Snob

Rolex 15200 Date

This model is very basic and does not come with the fluted or machines bezel. The bezel on this watch is smooth and very plain looking. It is all time favourite work horse for men and women. Right size, right tone, right price and right Rolex Quality, can be used for all occasions, a friend of mine a VP for a Taiwanese company use this watch for 20 years, never been having any trouble, he did not send it to Rolex centre for service, even he came to walk with me for 100Km Trail walker with this watch for three years.
It is basic watch with Date, perpetual calendar, oyster strap, stainless still, nothing is made of gold, this is good for those people who is allergy for gold!
This example shows the Rolex registered design of the watch case. This particular watch is the 15200 design which is all stainless steel in construction.
Many older Rolex watches can still be found that have the original green hologram on the back of the watch case.
It is interesting that on this watch, the original hologram label has a Rolex crown that is a cross between the older Rolex crown design and the newer versions. The balls are larger as in the newer designs, but the length of the crown spires are still shorter than the older versions.

HK Snob

Thursday, March 22, 2012

New 2012 Rolex Sky-Dweller

The Rolex 2012 Collection showcases Sky-Dweller was presented at BaselWorld 2012,

The New Rolex for global travelers, with two time zones and an annual calendar. Inspired with Rolex Engineering with 14 patented designs.

A particularly ingenious patented mechanism Saros annual calendar inspired by an astronomical phenomenon differentiates between 30-day and 31-day months, just four additional gear wheels. You need just one adjustment per year on the date!

With a revolutionary annual calendar offering unparalleled robustness and reliability for such a complex watchmaking function. This annual calendar’s qualities are attributable to an ingenious mechanism named Saros, patented by Rolex. Its original design was directly inspired by the astronomical phenomenon of the same name.

Discover the sophistication and simplicity of this revolutionary timepiece and explore the Sky-Dweller's features

Ref 32695 is come with new Calibre 9001, 40 rubies, reserved with 72 hours, 42mm Oyster Perpetual

A bit surprise on how it can maintain the water proof function between the bezel and the watch itself!? What a Rolex genius patented design!

Hontesy, looking at this picture not the real watch not until I can a real watch on my hand to review. Base on what I get from Rolex Website, it seems to me it is not too easy to read the information such as the month and the local time, and the local time zone dial is offset to one side without moving indicators, that is hard to read.

The Name Sky-Dweller sounds a bit uneasy to me, Sea Dweller is good name but not Sky-Dweller. Something Likes Flyer King, Traveller Master, World Traveller, Air Master, or something like Sky-Sniper, Air-Sniper, Air Chaser, Time Traverser, Air Speeder, Time Speeder, Air Transporter, City Voyager, Air Expedition, Time Expeditionist...can be considered etc...

Knowing that Rolex does not want to have drastic changes on th dial design and they want to move it graudually to test the public acceptance. Even the name, this may be the key factor of Rolex's Success!

9001, Manufacture Rolex
Mechanical movement with bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor on ball bearing
Officially certified Swiss chronometer (COSC)
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
24-hour display on off-centre disc
Second time zone via independent rapid-setting of the hour hand
Instantaneous annual calendar at 3 o’clock with Saros system and unrestricted bidirectional rapid-setting of the date
Month display via 12 apertures around the circumference of the dial
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring
Breguet overcoil
Large balance wheel with variable inertia
High-precision regulating via four gold Microstella nuts
Traversing balance bridge
High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers
40 rubies
Power reserve
Approximately 72 hours


Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
Reference (case – Bracelet): 326939 – 72419
Type: Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)
Diameter: 42 mm
Material: 18 ct white gold, polished finish
Case back: Screw-down with Rolex fluting
Bezel: Fluted, bidirectional rotatable Ring Command
Winding crown: Screw-down, Twinlock double waterproof system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant synthetic sapphire
Cyclops lens (2.5 ×) over the date, double anti-reflective coating
Waterproof: 100 metres (330 feet)
Colour: Ivory, satin finish
Hour markers: Roman numeral appliques in 18 ct white gold
Hands: 18 ct white gold with phosphorescent material
Type: Oyster, three-piece solid links
Material: 18 ct white gold, polished centre links and satin-finished outer links with polished edges
Clasp: Folding Oysterclasp
Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
Reference (case – Bracelet): 326938 – 72418
Type: Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)
Diameter: 42 mm
Material: 18 ct yellow gold, polished finish
Case back: Screw-down with Rolex fluting
Bezel: Fluted, bidirectional rotatable Ring Command
Winding crown: Screw-down, Twinlock double waterproof system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant synthetic sapphire
Cyclops lens (2.5 ×) over the date, double anti-reflective coating
Waterproof: 100 metres (330 feet)
Colour: Champagne, sunray finish
Hour markers: Arabic numeral appliques in 18 ct yellow gold
Hands: 18 ct yellow gold with phosphorescent material
Type: Oyster, three-piece solid links
Material: 18 ct yellow gold, polished centre links and satin-finished outer links with polished edges
Clasp: Folding Oysterclasp
Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
Reference (case – strap): 326935 – Brown alligator leather
Type: Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)
Diameter: 42 mm
Material: 18 ct Everose gold, polished finish
Case back: Screw-down with Rolex fluting
Bezel: Fluted, bidirectional rotatable Ring Command
Winding crown: Screw-down, Twinlock double waterproof system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant synthetic sapphire
Cyclops lens (2.5 ×) over the date, double anti-reflective coating
Waterproof: 100 metres (330 feet)
Colour: Chocolate, sunray finish
Hour markers: Arabic numeral appliques in 18 ct pink gold
Hands: 18 ct pink gold with phosphorescent material
StrapMaterial: Brown Alligator mississippiensis leather
Clasp: Folding Oysterclasp in 18 ct Everose gold

Only Solid Gold version is available, Hong Kong Rolex AD will have stock about September, Price TBA.
HK Snob

Sunday, March 11, 2012

Rolex Ref 15238 Soild Gold Date Just

This watch was made for one discrete model with Solid Gold version, riveted Osyster solid gold bracelet, White Enamel like dial, Roman hour indicators. There is not stainless version on this model.

The one wearing one my hand is an exanple of excellent condition. I am a fan of Day Date, so Date just may becomes a bit less Poisonous to me...

But I do not mind to buy it if I had another HKD$62,000!

HK Snob

Rolex Flagship Model Day Date Ref 6611

The Day Date became Rolex's flagship. The first model (6511) lasted just over a year before it was replaced by the externally identical 6611 with caliber 1055 movement with its free sprung Micro-Stella balance and was the first to be labeled "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" on the dial. This new accuracy standard guaranteed the watch to remain within + 3.0 seconds per day. This is the official birth of the Rolex Legend model Day Date… I have been longing to see one.

Today, I can have one in my hand, it is original Ref 6611. The Rolex Day Date, the fluted bezel has a finer pitch, the hour Marks is a thick piece of wedge shaped sold gold set on the dial, there is “"Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” on the dial at the six o’clock position.

This model has been released for about two years only, there should not too many example of good condition Ref 6611. In 1959 caliber 1055 was replaced with caliber 1555 in model 1803 (18,000bph) and later In 1965 - model 1803 received caliber 1556 (19,800bph). In 1977 caliber 3055 (quick-set) was introduced in model 18038.

In 1988 caliber 3155 (double quick-set) was introduced in model 18238.
Caliber 3155 is the caliber still used today in all Day-Date models.

HK Snob

Thursday, March 8, 2012

How to Take out the Ceramic Bezel of GMT Master

First of all, question is why I have to open the GMT Master bezel?
For the perfectionist like I, I may like to clean it regularly, I may need to re-align its capillarity, or angular position. Knowing from some one saying that the ceramic bezel was fixed on to the bottom ring by means of double sided self adhesive tape!? Is that Right? A HKD$62,100 watch is using adhesive tape to fix the bezel, I still have puzzled for this unbelievable concern, well not until I open it to see the real situation is!

This has to be done either via removing the entire bezel or the ceramic bezel. Removing the ceramic bezel seems to be the easier way since the bezel construction is a little different from the normal submariner bezels. But removing the ceramic bezel does pose some challenges in removing it cleanly and safely without destroying or scratching it.

I came across website telling us using a plastic sheet as the opening tool to wedge off
Through trial and error. The piece of plastic is those mounted on shirt's collar.Insert at the gap between the bezel and the crystal, work your way around the bezel. The bezel is attached using double sided tape and therefore it is quite easy to separate it.

Any crystal alignment can be done easily after the bezel is removed. We can clean by apply gasoline to remove the double sided tape adhesive residuals and fix it properly by
new adhesive tape. People may question why use tape and I will find out more. Thanks to the Orginal Blogger mentioned this to us as I have no time to open the Watch and check. It is a good topic for further investigate. I think Rolex has well thought about it.

HK Snob

Tudor Ref. 79090

This is Tudor 79090 Submariner 40mm.
Rolex case, Rolex Crown, acrylic Crystal Black Dial and powder coated dial.
No more in production and is hard to find in good condition, it is selling about HKD$18,000-28,000 depending on condition. Don't miss it.

HK Snob

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Swatch Full Turn Night SVAZ104S

Designed for men, build in high-tech ceramics black light, surrounded the Carousel movement, with the parts to 25 ruby bearings through the sapphire crystal glass, clearly visible. The mechanical device is placed on the watch with all the components disk movement, such a design, a movement to consolidate the operation of parts in each group, with the balance wheel escapement and a perfect match to ensure that accurate when the meter is running. Gear and control system placed in the transfer tube, and to rotate twice per hour, the operation of the whole, the balance wheel and escapement, as the satellite-like, walking around the center of the watch, full of beauty. Diaphane One Full Turn Night encoding the global production of 200 limited edition.

Diaphane One Full Turn Night luxury mechanical watch making is definitely the best example for the style in the world only store a limited post-coding of individual SWATCH sale, Hong Kong has been placed two, number, respectively (N ° 80) and (N ° 81 .) Limited number engraved on the light inside the black ceramic, as well as watch the bottom of the case, and highlight the unique and noble identity.

As a Christmas Special 2010. with list Price tagged at HKD$82,000.00, butonly a few known nunits were sold in HK.

HK Snob

Sunday, March 4, 2012

Watch Trend 2012-2017

Watch has been designed with change in size, the choice of different material, thickness, the way to display time…and design on the movement, from simple manual winding movement, Automatic winding, Day and Date display, Chronometers, Repeater, Alarm , Tourbillon, 2 Dimensional Movement tourbillon, Double Tourbillon, Diamond Like Coating case, Brass, Titanium, Carbon Composite material and Ceramic Composite compound…etc.

Size from 33 mm in the 50’s, moving up to 36 and 39 mm in 1970’s then going to smaller one like 23 mm for man and gradually increasing size in recent ten years and now even a size of 55mm an be found… A thickness of 20mm and a weight of 300 grams. It is almost the size of a Small Clock for your desk top!

Well, the trend is keep going, to maintain a comparatively large size even Rolex had to announce to go for 40mm for their Major production model Date Just, and The Explorer II new release has a size of 42mm..

What we can see is that more and more people have fed up with too many fancy but non-functioned features on a watch… moreover the watch has becoming more expensive with unreasonable price… A Simple Solid gold watch is in the range of HKD$220,000. a Skeleton Tourbillon is easily HK$2,000,000. a Double Tourbillon Skeleton in PT is HKD$4,500,000.

Is that a price for a Porsche, a Lamborghini or an Aston Martin? But the watch is weighed just about 150 grams.

Each gram of substance is costing about HKD$30,000.
Where as each gram of Ferrari Substance is just HKD$1.73 for a HKD$2,600,000 Ferrari!!

When I wake up tomorrow there will have more 10,000 Millionaires in China.. Who will be surprises if you not mark up your price that Higher!? How can you suck up all the money from these rich big spender who may buy the high end watch just looking at the high end price?… Now the highest market segment of Rolls Royce is in China., No more HK, US or Saudi Arabia…

Well, what is the trend of Watch making in the coming year?
I think there are a few streams

1. More and more people will look for thinner and Simpler watch dial design. like three or even two hands manual automatic watch. This can take up 10% of the High end market. This will be supported by Piaget, IWC, JLC, and VC.

2. More and more super complicated watch made in limited number for the collectors and act as show case for demonstrate the power of the Watch Company.

3. More cheaper watch plus a lot of add on function will be made for the rest 80% of most of the watch user from Mid Low Range of Swiss, Seiko, Citizen, Timex, Casio…

4. More and more Yellow or Rose Colour Gold will be made as comparing with the White Colour gold.. as we have been seeing enough White gold or Stainless watch in the past 10 years, we feel bore!

5. More and more individual watch maker will emerge as an independent watch brand to go for Higher end markets. The make small number of watch with stunning design and moderate complexity.

6. PP will be a did hard classic watch maker with less bold change on the major design , they are slowing migrating to the younger watch buyer esp. from China. A big more sportive image will be add on the basic Series. As young Rich Chinese below 30 will not appreciate the Classic Look of PP. They go AP and VC…

7. Swatch , once was the King of the watch hit in 1989-1995, and I believe they are making a Plastic Tourbillon for giving me a surprise of What A price for what’s a real pride!?

8. More fun watch will be made in the Easter Asian new designer like HK, Korea and Japan. And they will be made as a trendy stuff for the youth for low end or give-away items.

9. Rolex will be maintain his usual way of making different casing, new gadget on case and dial design , seeking new material for make their watch more durable and more reliable, rather than going in parallel with the higher end completion with complicated watch. Rolex Will never make any Tourbillon before 2016.

19. I am still a Fan of Rolex and this trend will not change.
HK Snob

A Thought of Time

Time is a part of the measuring system used to sequence events, to compare the durations of events and the intervals between them, and to quantify rates of change such as the motions of objects. The function of watch is used for telling the time. Time is the all datum for every event to be getting started, halted ongoing, and stop in this World, but not too sure if there is another Time used in other Universe?

No matter the world most Accurate and likely the most expensive Clock at National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST).It's accurate to one second in about 3.7 billion years. Or the one you are wearing on your wrist… No matter a few thousand dollar gold watch or some two dollar cheapo you bought from the Sham Shui Po hawkers. They function the same: tell the time…
Time seems to be abstract, time moves on second by second, day by day, year by year, can only have one direction, as displayed on your watch so called Clockwise direction.

There is numerous scientist had been spent life time effort to retard the time, not to mention to reverse it. So far, there seems have no way to do anything about it. I saw Nicholas Cage movie "Next" that he could possibly see the future that it would happen two minutes later and that seems he can control the world as CIA would track him down for helping US Governement to defuse a terrorist nuclear bomb! This is in the fiction or movie but in the real life.

We can count time on our watch, every tick tac of second represents that you have been aged exactly for that amount. We have been lucky survived for that moment. And in present time of moment we should treasure it. Many Watch collector keep their expensive, limited and special with in the safe. While the power reserve indicator show “Zero” it has no power start the fly wheel. I do think it is pity, as the watch maker has been spending tedious effort to make such a great watch, but it becomes an investment article in the dark and cold safe.

If I were him, I will put it on my hand and every moment I see the seconds hand moving it tells me our life is going on, and the left our known friends, lovers are going on. What a wonderful moment and seconds we can hear this little piece of watch movement keep time accurate, never steal you a second.

Let's enjoy our life and let' pay a little bit of respect to the Time. No matter is displayed by the triple complication Patek phillippe, Paul Newman Daytona, an Audemars Piguet, Swatch, Seiko It does not matter to you, they work almost the same. As different people has their own way to appreciate time and his watch. It is important that you have to treasure it, as by tomorrow, my watch may still moving but my life won’t go on!

Treasure your time of every second with you watch, your family members, your lovers, fiancée, or mistress.
HK Snob

Saturday, March 3, 2012

Roger Dubuis Velvet

Since 1995, Roger Dubuis has earned appreciation from the Chinese big spenders, discerning Watch connoisseurs, private collectors, and Celebrity. With fine Swiss horologer achievement and Company strategy to offer every watch made for qualifying for stamping “Genève Seal”.
This is a new design to offer those sophisticated ladies a time piece on her writs at same time a piece of jewelry. But not too much as a show off of glittering of precious gems.
The way they inlay the diamonds are just for the right design need. And not to uncover the precise Movement under the case.
The Velvet Watch is employing the RD821 movement which is made of 172 components. The Whole watch is entirely developed, hand-made assembled in the Roger Dubuis Ateliers.
Exterior was a black Technical prowess of black DLC treatment solid Titanium. An audacious and unseen combination of colours, reflecting the dramatic and dark beauty of our "Incredible Diva" universe.
· This Velvet watch design is made in Titanium with DLC feature;
· 36mm in diameter.
· One round of Amethysts and Black Diamonds on the side;
· 100% In-house automatic movement;
· With Genève Quality Hall Mark and COSC Certificate.
This watch is selling at HKD$308,000.00.
Diamond-like-carbon (DLC) coatings are a particular area of expertise on surface treatment for both colour and hardness. Among PVD & PaCVD coating compositions and technology, DLC coatings stand out as a particularly distinctive category. These coatings exhibit a desirable combination of a low coefficient of friction and high micro-hardness, making them extremely effective in many tribological and wear applications.
DLC coatings are formed when ionized and decomposed carbon or hydrocarbon species land on the surface of a substrate with energy typically 10-300eV. DLC films may possess exceptional mechanical (high hardness), optical (high optical band gap), electrical (high electrical resistivity), chemical (inert) and tribological (low friction and wear coefficient) properties and can be deposited at low substrate temperature (<200°).
It is a new way to apply the treatment on the surface of the metal like Stainless steel or Titanium, this will ensure the metal surface to be hard enough for durability, black as the desire colour of the watch designer, and smoothness for extra wearing comfort.
Roger Dubuis made it on Titanium has a ultra light weight for the lady to wear. It is an expensive process and the yield is low, so as the cost will be high.
AP, Hubolt, Richard Miller Panerai and Cartier has a few launched models using this DLC process on their watch.
HK Snob