The 100th anniversary of the Oyster case sees Rolex reissue its Jubilee dial like this!

 為慶祝 1926 年首款防水腕錶問世 100 週年，勞力士在 2026 年鐘錶與奇蹟（Watches and Wonders）展覽中，將 Oyster Perpetual (OP) 系列推向了舞台中心，推出專屬的「100 週年」紀念版本。 

這款紀念版最吸引人的地方在於其細節上的「致敬」與「突破」：

1. 設計亮點與細節

• 「100 YEARS」字樣：在石板灰色（Slate Grey）太陽紋錶面的 6 點鐘位置，原本的「Swiss Made」標識被 「100 YEARS」 字樣取代，這是勞力士極為罕見的改動。
• 專屬錶冠刻印：上鏈錶冠上除了經典皇冠標誌，下方還特別鐫刻了 「100」 數字。
• 經典配色：錶面點綴了勞力士代表性的 「勞力士綠」，包括品牌 Logo 和時標點，搭配黃金材質的指針與時標。
• 材質組合：推出了全新的 金鋼（Yellow Rolesor） 版本，結合了蠔式鋼與 18K 黃金，打破了 OP 系列長期以來僅提供全鋼材質的印象。 
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2. 型號與參考售價

此紀念系列涵蓋了多種尺寸，滿足不同腕徑需求：

• Oyster Perpetual 41 (Ref. 134303)：約 HK$78,000 (US$9,650)。
• Oyster Perpetual 36：約 HK$68,200 (US$8,450)。
• Oyster Perpetual 31：約 HK$62,400 (US$7,700)。
• 此外，亦有針對女性市場推出的 28mm 及34mm 全金版本。 

 

3. 技術規格與意義

• 蠔式傳奇：1926 年創辦人 Hans Wilsdorf 推出的蠔式錶殼，成功應對了防水防塵的挑戰，1927 年 Mercedes Gleitze 佩戴它橫渡英吉利海峽更奠定了其地位。
• 性能保證：紀念款維持 100 米防水深度，搭載勞力士先進機芯，並符合更嚴苛的 頂級天文台認證（Superlative Chronometer） 標誌。 

看到這個花款，作為一個層經是勞力士粉絲只會說一句，這個就是勞力士最新佳作？就此而矣！若在勞力士店正價有售，你會買嗎？

Paul Ip

Timegrapher（校表儀）

 

要判斷機械錶的健康狀況，看懂 Timegrapher（校表儀） 的數據是關鍵。校表儀主要測量四個核心數值和一個圖表軌跡，透過這些數據，你可以快速得知手錶是否需要洗油、調整或維修。 

 

1. 核心數據解讀

• 日差 (Rate / Accuracy):
• 單位： 秒/日 (s/d)。
• 含義： 手錶每天快或慢多少秒。
• 標準： 理想是 0s/d。一般新錶或剛洗完油的錶通常在 ±5s/d 內；老錶或較平價機芯在 ±15s/d 內通常也算合格。
• 擺幅 (Amplitude):
• 單位： 度 (°)。
• 含義： 擺輪旋轉的角度，代表機芯的「能量」與「健康度」。
• 標準： 滿鍊狀態下，理想範圍在 270° - 315° 之間。如果低於 230°，可能表示潤滑油乾涸或零件磨損，需要保養。
• 偏振 (Beat Error):
• 單位： 毫秒 (ms)。
• 含義： 擺輪往左擺與往右擺的時間差（即「滴」與「答」的對稱性）。
• 標準： 理想是 0.0ms。通常 0.5ms 以下 算非常優良，超過 1.0ms 則建議進行調整。
• 參數 (Parameters):
• 升角 (Lift Angle): 預設通常為 52°。這是計算擺幅的必要參數，需根據特定機芯型號設定正確數值，否則讀出的擺幅會不準確。
• 振頻 (Beat Rate / VPH): 機械錶每小時跳動的次數（如 21,600 或 28,800），機器通常會自動偵測。 

 

 

2. 觀察點狀圖軌跡 (Graph Trace)

螢幕上的點狀軌跡反映了機芯運行的穩定性：

• 直線且平行： 表示運行極為穩定，手錶健康狀況良好。
• 斜率： 向上斜代表手錶走快，向下斜代表走慢。
• 軌跡散亂（雪花狀）： 這是警訊，通常代表機芯內有雜物、受磁，或是零件受損。 

 

 

3. 多方位測試

讀取數據時，不應只看單一位置。通常需要測試以下方位來獲得全面結果：

1. 錶面向上 (Dial Up)
2. 錶面向下 (Dial Down)
3. 龍頭向下 (Crown Down) — 模擬手自然垂下的姿勢。 

您是想針對特定的手錶進行數值校正，還是純粹想了解二手錶的健康狀況？

If you want to check your watch 's condition, Bring to a   renowned watch repair shop.

 Paul Ip

Water proof test for your watches

Water test for your watch, normally we have wet test and dry pressure test, in most of the cases we use dry pressure test because of its simple operation. It takes a couple of minutes to get the job done.

 

How Wet Pressure Testers Work

1. Preparation: The watch is placed on a hook inside the cylinder, and the cylinder is filled with distilled water.
2. Pressurization: The lid is tightened and air pressure is pumped into the chamber to simulate a certain depth (e.g., 3-5 bar).
3. Soak Time: The watch stays in the pressurized environment for about 1 minute. If a leak exists, air forces its way into the watch.
4. Release & Observation: The operator releases the pressure and immediately submerges the watch into the water.
5. Leak Detection: If the watch is not watertight, the air that entered earlier will escape, creating a visible stream of bubbles. 

 

How Dry Pressure Testers Work (Vacuum Testing)

• Air Testing: Known as a dry tester, this method uses a sealed chamber with air instead of water.
• Deformation Sensor: A sensitive sensor rests on the watch crystal. The machine creates a vacuum to pull air out or pressure to push it in.
• Measurement: The sensor measures the microscopic expansion or contraction of the watch case. If the case does not change shape, the machine knows the air has leaked inside, signaling a broken seal. 

 

Advantages

• Safety: Dry tests ensure the watch does not get wet during testing.
• Accuracy: Wet tests are superior for verifying that the watch holds up to specific pressures.
• Safety Check: This is crucial after any battery change or service to ensure the gaskets are properly seated. 

 

If we want to ensure where the leakage is. Most professional watchmakers use a combination of both tests to ensure the integrity of the watch, often looking for leaks through bubbles (wet) or by monitoring for pressure drops within the testing chamber (dry). 

 

Water test for your watch, normally we have wet test and dry pressure test, in most of the cases we use dry pressure test because of its simple operation. It takes a couple of minutes to get the job done.

 

How Wet Pressure Testers Work

1. Preparation: The watch is placed on a hook inside the cylinder, and the cylinder is filled with distilled water.
2. Pressurization: The lid is tightened and air pressure is pumped into the chamber to simulate a certain depth (e.g., 3-5 bar).
3. Soak Time: The watch stays in the pressurized environment for about 1 minute. If a leak exists, air forces its way into the watch.
4. Release & Observation: The operator releases the pressure and immediately submerges the watch into the water.
5. Leak Detection: If the watch is not watertight, the air that entered earlier will escape, creating a visible stream of bubbles. 

 

How Dry Pressure Testers Work (Vacuum Testing)

• Air Testing: Known as a dry tester, this method uses a sealed chamber with air instead of water.
• Deformation Sensor: A sensitive sensor rests on the watch crystal. The machine creates a vacuum to pull air out or pressure to push it in.
• Measurement: The sensor measures the microscopic expansion or contraction of the watch case. If the case does not change shape, the machine knows the air has leaked inside, signaling a broken seal. 

 

Advantages

• Safety: Dry tests ensure the watch does not get wet during testing.
• Accuracy: Wet tests are superior for verifying that the watch holds up to specific pressures.
• Safety Check: This is crucial after any battery change or service to ensure the gaskets are properly seated. 

 

If we want to ensure where the leakage is. Most professional watchmakers use a combination of both tests to ensure the integrity of the watch, often looking for leaks through bubbles (wet) or by monitoring for pressure drops within the testing chamber (dry). 

Paul Ip

Fung Leung Kee Watch (馮良記表行)

 

Fung Leung Kee Watch (馮良記表行) was a legendary family-run watch retailer in 

Wan Chai that stood for over 80 years. It officially closed its doors on March 30, 2026.

The History of Fung Leung Kee

• Wartime Origins: Founded by Mr. Fung Leung in 1943 during the Japanese occupation of Hong Kong, the shop became a cornerstone of the Wan Chai community.
• Rolex Pioneer: In the 1960s, Fung Leung Kee became one of the first authorized dealers for Rolex and Tudor in Hong Kong. For decades, it was the "go-to" spot for many locals buying their first luxury timepiece to celebrate life milestones.
• Location: Originally located in a tenement building on Johnston Road, it later moved to Tai Yau Plaza due to urban redevelopment. The family also owns the Fung Leung Kee Center nearby.

Why Did It Close?

• Brand Strategy Shifts: The primary reason cited by industry analysts was the global trend of luxury brands (like Rolex) tightening their distribution networks and moving toward direct-to-consumer flagship stores rather than traditional family-owned dealers.
• Market Evolution: The rise of smartwatches and changes in the secondary luxury watch market made the traditional retail model more challenging.
• Graceful Retirement: With the family owning significant real estate in Wan Chai, the closure was seen more as a "glorious retirement" rather than a financial failure, ending on their own terms after 83 years of service.

This is after The Tai Hing in Tsuen Wan, the second old Rolex AD come to an end.

We believe more to come to close as Rolex wants to handle by themselves as much as they can.

Paul