Introduction:
Against the backdrop of the esteemed Watches and Wonders 2024 event, concerns arise regarding the decline in Swiss watch exports in March. The value of exports fell by 16.1% compared to March 2023, amounting to a total of 2.0 billion francs. This decline was primarily driven by reduced demand from China and Hong Kong, major trading hubs for watches in Asia. Overall, the first quarter experienced a 6.3% decrease compared to the previous year.
Sales Performance by Price Segments:
The decline in exports was observed across all price segments. Watches priced at over 3,000 francs experienced a decline of 9.9%. The drop was more significant for products priced under 500 francs, with a decrease of 18.8%. The 500-3,000 francs category witnessed a decline of 38.2%.
Market Performance by Region:
Most markets experienced weakened demand in March. Notably, the United States (-6.5%), Japan (-3.5%), and the United Arab Emirates (-3.6%) were less affected compared to the average decline. Conversely, China suffered a significant decline of 41.5%, reaching a level below that of March 2020 when the industry faced a halt due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Hong Kong (-44.2%), Singapore (-14.8%), the United Kingdom (-13.2%), Germany (-13.1%), and France (-11.9%) were closer to the global average.
Historical Perspective: Swiss Watchmaking Over the Past 50 Years:
The Swiss watchmaking industry has undergone significant transformations over the past five decades. One pivotal event was the Quartz watch crisis of 1970. Exports reached their peak in 1974 at 84.4 million watches and movements but plummeted to just 31.3 million within a decade. This crisis led to a divergence in the industry, with the emergence of everyday watches like Swatch and the luxury segment.
Brand Identity and Market Share:
Swiss watches are categorized into super
luxury, luxury, hi-end, and mid-range streams. Brand identity plays a crucial
role in building brand value. Top players such as Richard Mille, with watches
worth CHF 200,000, manufacture only a few thousand pieces annually. In
contrast, Swatch produces millions of watches each year. As of 2023, Rolex
dominates the market with a 30.3% market share, followed by Cartier 7.5%, Omega
7.5%, Patek Philippe 5.6%, and Audemars Piguet, among others.
Market Growth and Strategies:
The Swiss watch market has experienced both
growth and contraction simultaneously. While volumes have decreased by almost
45% since 2015, the value of high-end watches priced over CHF 3,000 has surged
by 15.6% in the past year. This trend signifies a shift towards higher-priced
luxury timepieces. The industry's focus on producing fewer watches at higher
prices reflects a protectionist approach aimed at boosting demand.
The market's trajectory for the next decade
will be shaped by distinct strategies related to brand identity, average
selling price (ASP), value proposition, and sales approaches. While hunger
sales may be utilized to stimulate demand, it is crucial to note that watches
are not considered investment assets. The luxury watch industry is adapting to
the digital age, with younger generations showing greater interest in wearable
technology rather than traditional mechanical timepieces. However, the market
remains strong, with major players reporting impressive growth.
In conclusion, the Swiss watch market is
undergoing dynamic changes. The industry has transitioned towards producing
fewer watches of higher value, focusing on rarity, exclusivity, and
storytelling. Younger consumers are gravitating towards digital wearables,
while the 30-50 age group still appreciates Swiss mechanical watches as
indicators of social status. Vintage watch enthusiasts continue to cherish the
craftsmanship of fine mechanical timepieces. It is essential for watch
enthusiasts to buy and enjoy timepieces they personally appreciate, while
recognizing the unique stories and value associated with rare and special
watches.
HK Snob