More About In house Movement

Aftermath on the last article on In house movement
When the quartz watch hit the market by end of the 60s, most watch companies embraced it with a vengeance. It was cheap, light, durable, super accurate. The advantages over all other mechanical types were beyond question. It seemed too good to be true and it was.

The shortcomings of the quartz watch didn't manifest themselves for two decades and by that time most watch companies and the ebauche industry had been dramatically downsized.

Audemars Piguet was beaten to moribund until savior Gerald Genta created the Legendary Royal Oak Jumbo to save the company from being Bankruptcy.

Omega stopped making their in house movements because it seemed that they wouldn't compete against the new Electronics Quartz technology. Movado did the same. Many Ebauche companies were devastated. AS and ETA were already the big players so they stayed in business.

The rejection of quartz by consumers of high end watches was settled fairly quickly as HK$10,000 premium watches began dying. Old established companies like Patek Philippe, Rolex and JLC wisely kept their mechanicals coming and benefitted greatly. Omega at one point discovered a supply of old manual wind movements put aside years before because they wouldn't sell as manual winds.

They did casing them into retro solid gold cases and got over HK$10,000 each for the lot. At this point in the game Omega and virtually all the other brands use the ETA 2824, 2892, and 7750 or a derivative thereof. Rolex still makes the Rolex, Patek Philippe still makes PP and JLC dabbles in new technology of their own design but stays with their automatics.

Why do we prefer the old in house movements? They were beautiful and unique. Omega won many timekeeping awards with their in house products. I am still thinking that the best Omega is still the Constellation in the 50s and 60s.

They are the best even built in house Omega Movement that once captured numerous people hearts, and Omega was more expensive than Rolex at that time… but sooner they lost to Rolex in the 90s’ due to lack of versatility and newer model to defect Rolex.

However in fact some of the Patek Philippe and Vacheron movements are based on "Lemania", and many of the Blancpain movements based on "Piquet"... Rolex used El Primero on their Daytona.

Most of the big brands use "in-house" movements but many of them use also movements from other manufacturers. IWC and Panerai have some nice in-house calibers but working also with ETA movements.

So If I categorize this way since the beginning of the Watch making , no other non-in-house watch movement have been used, Who else can claim they use 100% in house Movement!?


I think only Roger Dubuis, A Lang & Sohne, JLC , Seiko and someone mentioned Vulcain?

The Last one yet to be verified!?


Someone mentioned Seiko had been working Casio to build movement, So Can I remove Seiko form the list!?

Confirmed 100% In house Movement- JLC, Roger Dubuis, A Lang & Sohne.

To be further verified; Vulcain, Seiko?

Sham Shui Po Snob

Brand new Rolex Submariner Ref 116610LV Two Pieces reserved for You

I have reserved two pieces of Submariner Green Bezel Green Dial from HK Rolex AD ready now till next Tuesday 25 June. Whilse Stock last...
Price HKD$66,100 no dicsount.
Note that this special watch is allowed to have only 1-2 pieces is allocated to shop of Rolex A month.
HK Snob

PS Sold Out 23 June 2013

Five Watch Brands is still making his own in house Watch Movement

There are 5 watch-making brands who are producing 100% in-house movements are Patek Philippe, Jaeger LeCoulre, Rolex, A. Lange & Sohne and Roger Dubuis.

Amongst these, Roger Dubuis has increased the number of watch production to nearly 5,000 pieces per year; whereas Patek Philippe is producing 42,000 pieces per year and 25,000 pieces for Vacheron Constantin. Rolex is largest about 480,000 pieces a year.

Ferrari produces about 6,000 cars a year, so in terms of Volume, Roger Dubuis is even more exclusive than them! Therefore, Roger Dubuis timepieces remain very exclusive when compare to other watch brands like Patek Philippe and VC. But Roger Dubuis is yet attaining the big brand name as PP as they established in 1995 where Patek Philippe was established in 1839. Recently we have a lot of Hollywood stars are wearing Roger Dubuis especially in the past 5 years.

Rolex on the other hand is no quetsion that they have a much bigger production volume as they are having the most sophisticated manufcaturing facilities amongst those 4 other Manufcaturers in Switzerland. Much of their parts are turned out from automatic micro-machine
and mini robots.

If you want to purchase a watch, you should consider that these are the key factors that the brand name would not be eroded by OEM their movement to some other body. As for Collector’s choice, everything should be the maker’s orginal deisgn and manufacture.

In view of the auction, we seldom can see OEM movement watch in the bid, except the Panerai 1997 PAM00021 using vintage Rolex Movement which had limited 60 pieces. it went up to a Auction price of HKD$1,124,000 in Christies. Probably because of the Rolex Movement!

Sham Shui Po Snob

Ps , The data ws obtained from the general manager of Roger Dubuis Hong Kong, correct me if the data is not right!

Seiko Astron, First GPS watch powered by Solar

Seiko Astron builds its own Caliber 7X52 movement and encased in titanium. The Astron’s ability to adjust time accurately and automatically to whatever timezone its in. While such watch already exist on the market, the Astron will be the first to utilize orbiting GPS satellites instead of radio transmission towers.


There are several immediate advantages, including limitless range and the inclusion of all 39 timezones around the globe. To activate the automatic calibration, simple push a button and the high-tech system will do the rest. In fact, with its perpetual calendar accurate to the year 2100 and a solar power unit that functions in any forms of light source, the SEIKO Astron GPS Solar watch is taking a first step in a brand horology category. Prices of this one is Hong Kong is about HKD$20,000.

It is a real versatile Watch, Timeless, battery less, Auto calibrate when you travel from one time zone into others. It is Big and clear that you won’t miss anything on the dial, it is light to wear, water proof and durable. Spending HKD$20,000 for a watch and technology is really your decision!
This one shown is Limited Edition of 500 pcs.

Sham Shui Po Snob

Your Watch and the Shoes

Life can be so funny and can be so harsh, all depends on how you look at it.

Watch and Shoes is two major items that you can tell how the life style of the guys is.

The Japanese men treat their shoe "KAO" Face of the man. see how important the shoes are to the men.

A man with a decent watch does not mean he is rich.

I my opinion, a man with a pair of expensive shoes 90% he is rich...as

Why as since the first day you wear the shoes, it starts wearing off. But for watch, it may retain certain amount of value even you use it. And some of the watches of celebrity can be so much expensive in Auction. Like JFK and Elvis Presley's Rolex!

Well, there is a lot of way we would think about our past which is the most important Properties of life. No matter Happy or sour, still that is our History!

When I look at my Watch, sometimes I think of my Father who is the man who created me and my life and my fate to know you!

So the watch is the Crystal Ball to look into the history and I think I will not able to bring you into future. But You can,... Wearing a good decent watch may change your character over the time as it will keep reminding your life in past, present and Future...

Have Fun with you watch...dont abuse your shoes and your watch!

Sham Shui Po Snob

Money or Rolex, Rolex or Money? Collector's Dilemma!!

             Rolex OysterQuartz DD Ref 19018 with Birch Dial

                                Western Electric WE300B Vacuum Tubes 1995

                                   RCA Victor 1959 The Royal ballet LP Mono Two LP Album

                                               Telefunken 1958-1965 ECC803 Vacuum Tubes

Teresa Tang LP all Printed in Japan 1973-1979

                                 Rolex DD Ref 18049 White Gold with Dimond bezel

When you have no money, try to find it, when you have found some money, you should look for something you like!

Buy a Rolex for you wife, your daughter, you brother, Father and mother, but most of all, buy the dream Rolex for yourself. That is the best reward to your hard working in the past, and most of all Rolex has a good power to work again inflation. It won’t earn money for you but I think Rolex is better than bank to keep money sometimes.

I should say this way, you won’t lose too much, at least you will earn the “Daily wearing of it” That is my attitude toward Rolex.

I bought Telefunken ECC803 Vacuum Tube at about $2,000 with Box 10 years ago, now the market price is $5,000 no box. NOS with box is $20,000 a piece. Once I had 26 pieces of such great tubes and I was so nervous that price would fall and I sold some of them to Audio Space some 6 years ago at cost. Now I feel regret as there is no way to buy at $5,000 a piece. So sometimes stay Calm, the Physics is right, the old good stuff will becoming less and less, that is why Vintage Rolex price soring high.

I bought Western Electric WE300 vacuum Tubes at $6,300 a pair at Audiotronics 7 years ago, now they are selling $24,000 a pair. I bought two pairs, but will I sell it!?

I bought my Teresa Tang Japanese Release Vinyl about $500 to 800 12 years ago, now , it is about $1,500- $30,000 a piece!

I bought the Royal Ballet at $5,000 four years ago, now it worth more than $15,000!

I bought a few Rolex OysterQuartz each at $56,000 3 years ago, now it price is $65,000- $75,000 for good colour dial.

I bought a AP Royal Oak 1972 Jumbo at $120,000 4 years ago, I think now If I sell it I can get at least 80% more.

But the problem is, Will you sell it. That is a Collector’ dilemma, “Always it is very hard to find, and even harder to sell!”

Another funny things I saw is that when there are so many pretty ladies in front of the sailors at Mona Lisa Massage Parlour, they could not make a choice, but when the ship was moored at Siracha more than 1 month,,, I bet an old lady of 40 can be the queen for the night!

Same as Rolex, I had order three Ref 116610LV for friends, but when the watches arrived AD, They all disappeared and after the next day when those Gem are sold, someone came to me again asking for the Watch!

So Today, be calm, work hard for money, and when you have spotted good Rolex, go and buy!

Take your time to search and find it, I feel that the process of searching something is more enjoyable than the time you have bought it…

Sham Shui Po Snob

Audemars Piguet Quantieme Perpetuel

AP is another brand of watch that I like, this is a Pepertual Calendar watch made of solid 18 KT gold.
The No. 88 is perfect for Chinese, we call it "Double Rich"!

HK Snob

Father's Day special, Rolex ref 18238 and Patek Philippe 5170

There are many studies to tell the average life expectancy of father is shorter than mother.


As being a Father has to face thee pressure from the job, society, his never ending demanding bosses except I as I treat people with respect at least…, and had to work hard to maintain the income for the family…

Though we cannot underestimate the work of the mother, the 9 month pregnancy is a torture and I was told the consequency is that that mother would love her kid more!

Old Chinese Saying: The furious tiger won’t eat her kid… as she know they are her kids. Nothing would be changed since the day they were borne.

That is to be fair Father day should be treated with same importance as Mother day!


Wish all fathers could be happy and wish all kids understood how tough father has to support the family.

And I hope My children would buy me either one of these watches to me on this special Father's day.

WISH YOU ALL HAD A WONDERFUL HAPPY FATHER’S DAY!

HK Snob

The Rolex Watch Ref 19018

This is a close up of OysterQuartz Ref 19018 Yellow gold DD!

HK Snob

Rolex Ref 1803 Fat Boy

This is one of the so called "Fat Boy", an early issue from Rolex under the model Ref 1803.
It looks bigger, and in fact, it is wider on teh case!

The black Roman Numerals on champange dial is a good match.

Worst thing is Paul always say: "Not for sale!" , likely because it is "Near Mint" condition.

It is a Classic Relex DD!

Sham Shui Po Snob

Watch Fever by HK Snob

Many People asks me who am I and I can tell you that I am a blogger. The reason I started blogging was one of my bosses criticized my poor commercial English and I decided to start blogging to pick up my writing. I always thank him as he is my trigger for my blogs!

I found that Still my English is Rubbish, but that is no a matter, as it keeps me writing. That is my Hobby now.. glad to hear that People sometime found my story was funny! I like that comment as Life is Boring, we should make more fun out of boreness everyday every time…

I started my first Watch as My father showed me his Grand Seiko, and he bought me a Citizen manual winding watch when I was first in Class in English in Form 1. I started buying my first Rolex Date Just stainless steel when I earned my own money back in 1980. Since then I found Rolex is the opium and I started smoking Rolex Opium every day, and I am having more cure for it.

I am A watch Maniac, Rolex Lover that would consider sell one of my Kidneys to buy Rolex Day Date if that is Lapis Azuli Blue with Bubble Diamond and Diamond bezel.

I am HK Snob that has no money but has all kind of expensive Hobbies and Collection such as Fountain Pen, Vinyl or LP, Wine (inside my Stomach), Vacuum Tubes, Tie Clip and Cuff link..etc.

I am An Analogue Audio Supporter, Listening to all kinds of Analogue music from 50’s 70s; The Entire Audio Chain as no Transistor or any IC as the perfectionist’s music source. A good TurnTable and Vacuum Tubes amplifier does the best job in conveying the original music format from the recording media LP into our ears!

I earn money by working as sales manager in a Semiconductor equipment supplier company, I fly to Manila every week and come back on Saturday. I take care Philippine market. If you are in Manila, Please call me for a coffee and a SPA!

Well, I am not a Watch Dealer, I am not a Watch shop owner, I appreciate good watches and I appreciate talking to friends on Watch and Watch stuff, Blogging is my new hobby.

I start to helping people to find the New Rolex from Rolex AD at reasonable price, I like to answer questions that people asks me about watch although I am not an expert but I like them asking me that I will find the answer by consulting expert and friend. Through the Questions, I know more about watches!

I wrote everything about my Blogs all by myself… and I can say if you have passion on something, you will make is successful! Though I can not say my blog is successful, i like Jakes Rolex as he got the stuff, very interesting stuff.

And I you can share your watch picture to me, I will be glad… send them to my yahoo mail account feverip266288@yahoo.com.hk

And most of all thanks a million for your support, my watch blog just hits a 626,389 page views minutes ago. It is nothing comparing to international watch blogs. But I am armature, part time blogger and I have limited sources of information, this will be nice rewards to me… 
Sometimes I call myself Sham Shui Po Snob because Sham Shui Po is a great place to go, and most of all, though average people is poor, but they are the honest and hardworking grass root HK People! And they are the real nice people! That is why I encourge myself to buy pre-owned watch at Lung Shing  as they are good stuff.... People there is honest!

PS
My Rolex Polo Shirt was a gift from Alfred, a Hi Fi DIY and Expert on Audio from UK.

The watch is a Tudor Red Chronometer 1990, I sold it to one of my good friend in Singapore as I had no money to pay the rent!

I like to stand near a Piano because I think I can pick up some musical
Inspiration by doing so... I cannot play piano.

I wish you all had a wonderful weekend!

Sham Shui Po Snob

PS
You can simple find me just typing “ Watch fever” in Google or Yahoo search engine, the first One is my Blog!

Clerc hydroscaph Limited Edition Chronograph "500" pieces

Clerc Hydroscaph Limited Edition Chronograph
This is an unique, massive, all weather wearing Watch from Clerc, a tiny Swiss small company that could produce such a fine watch. It weighs about 150gram which gives me a feeling of Invincible, Solid and Sturdy. The whole case is solid hi carbon steel and is black DLC coated to give you a satin smooth surface and I believe with just a whip of your hand, the water will be gone and dry after diving.

The Small window at back does allow you to peep the fine polishing quality and those Blue screws, a sense of Hi end Movement. The rotor is smooth noiseless which is important to tell the precision of the bearing assembly. This is Numbered “2” out of the limited 500 pieces…

“Two” means “Easy” in Chinese,… That is why I see the watch owner can be so Easy to manage his income and his Collection of Watches. Believe no one would like to sell this watch with “2”. Wish him all the best… with this "Easy" Watch!

Retail Price HKD$90,000.00

HK Snob

Rolex Day Date Ref 18238 White Dial with Bubble Diamond

An Rolex Day Date with White Epoxy Dial and bubble Diamond.

Ref 18238 is very rare to have bubble Diamond!!

How do you like it!? Beside is the one I am wearing Today, Ref 19018.
Ref 18238 is double quick set DD, POA.
HK Snob

Some Killer Rolex Day Date

                                   Rolex Ref 18039 White Gold DD with Special Circular Hour Index
                                                                    (owner is in HK)

                                                 Rolex DD with Lapis Azuli (Owner in Begium)

                                                     Ref 18038 YG DD  (Owner in HK)

                                             Ref 19018 YG OysterQuartz Oak Dial (Owner in hk)

                                         Ref 1803 Black Roman Numerals Dial, Classic! (Owner in HK
)

Killer Rolex 1804  WG and YG with alot of Sugar Cubes

Ref 1804 DD

Courtesy picture of http://www.10pastten.com/inventory/details.php?item_id=TA457

More and more Rolex DD, more and more beautiful dials and a lot of shinning stone embedded on it.

What is your choice? My choice is still the Blue Lapis ...and the green!

HK Snob

What's Wrong with a Quartz Watch?

 

Top: Rolex Daytona stainless stell Ref 116520

Bottom: Rolex OysterQuartz Day Date Ref 19018 Yellow Gold

What is wrong with a Quartz Watch?

When I was working on a merchant vessels in 1980-1983; time keeping was solely done by a manual Winding maritime clock, Nardin, Zenith, Seiko and PateK Philippe. The second or Third officer had to take record on the watch every day on a log book to track the time. The Watch has 7 days power reserve and there is a big wing-nut key to do the winding.

I have noticed that it was within the range of +6 to – 4 seconds every day. Do not forget the watch does not have tourbillon and had to experience cold and hot weather. It was -25 degrees in Dalian and +36 degrees at Bangkok. That is a real chronometer.

The time is important to be used to check the position of the Ship through Sextant through some logarithm table. Of course the ship has been equipped with some other positional finding system Like Loran C, Omega, and the latest Satellite navigator system after 1986. Still there must equip a Chronometer and I can see all the Chronometers was Quartz driven after 90s.

The beauty of Quartz is accuracy that no mechanical watch can beat them, as it carry a 32,000 Hz (Cycle per second) Vibration frequency Quartz whereas mechanical watch movements used by Rolex, Breitling, and Omega, the movement calibers that obtain most of the COSC certificates are the Rolex 3135 (since 1988) (and variants 3155, 3175, 3185, 4130) and 2235, the ETA 2892A2 (and variants) and Valjoux 7750, each of which operates at 28,800 beats per hour.

Grand Seiko and Zenith El Primero has a higher frequency of 36,000 beats per hour. Even though, comparing with the Rolex OysterQuartz is 32,000x3,600/36,000=115,200 times Higher in beats per second.,

A Rolex OysterQuartz has a 115,200 times better in time keeping than ordinary mechanical Watch.

look at the COSC standard here, mechanical watch which is built to certify the Standard of COSC has an accuracy of +6 and -4 degrees every day, whereas a OysterQuartz watch is in the range of an average 0.07 second a day.

Don't forget we are talking about Chronometers that has been built with jewel bearings and precision parts to achieve that accuracy, most of the non COSC watch may have an accuracy of +15 -12 seconds a day. That can be 5 minutes a month!

COSC aka C.O.S.C. is Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute, which is the institute responsible for certifying the accuracy and precision of wristwatches in Switzerland. There are about 1,000,000 watches submitted for certification each year, large portion is from Rolex,, Omega, Breitling, Tag Huer and Panerai.

These are about 3% of the total watches Swiss made a year.

COSC not just serve mechanical Watch, but also Quartz Watch, refer to the following table.

 

Considering the fact that mechanical watches are almost never used for real timekeeping and navigation anymore, and that practically any quartz watch is vastly better in accuracy, certification may be considered a historic relic by some, but it verifies the accuracy and quality of a mechanical movement.
Though quartz is almost always more accurate, mechanical movements are preferred by some watch collectors and enthusiasts.

To me, sometimes it is easier to wear a watch that is very accurate and very reliable, besides, the Watch MUST be very beautiful!

The Choice is Rolex OysterQuartz Day Date Ref 19018 and Ref 19019.

But the Ref 19019 is very hard to get nowaday, and it very expensive, it is in the range of HKD$80,000 to HKD$100,000 depending on condition and type of dial.

As for Yellow Gold, it is more friendly in pirce, it is in the Range of HKD$65,000 to HKD$85,000 depending on condition and type of dial.

Of course, if that is a Tiger Eye, or Lapis Azuli dial, it will be very very Expensive no matter yellow gold or white gold, as the dial itself is already a piece of art!

Did Rolex ever made some QysterQuartz Day Date with these gemstones?
HK Snob

Rolex DD Ref 18038 on Sale

An next mint Rolex Day Date Ref 18038 Black Dial. Already replaced with Chinese Day date display, had been serviced for case cleaning at RSC HK. Have Rolex Service record. 
Black is beauty!
POA

HK Snob