Vintage Cartier lady Watch

Cartier was founded in 1847 when Louis-François Cartier, then an apprentice to Parisian jeweler Adolphe Picard, took over the business when his master passed away. By 1853, young Louis-François had become a favorite of Napoleon III’s cousin Princess Mathilde, who helped Cartier gain entry to Parisian society.

For the next quarter century, Cartier was strictly a jeweler, but in 1874, Louis-François’...s son Alfred gained the company’s reins. He in turn brought his sons, Louis, Pierre, and Jacques, into the firm—it was this third generation of Cartier that would make the Paris jeweler’s name synonymous with luxury wristwatches.

The first Cartier watches were diamond-studded bracelets for ladies, which were introduced in 1888 and languished until Parisian fashions changed enough in the mid-1890s to encourage the adornment of a bare wrist with a watch.

But the real wristwatch breakthrough came in 1904, when, according to Cartier lore, a Brazilian aviation pioneer named Alberto Santos-Dumont complained to his friend Louis Cartier of the shortcomings of fumbling with a pocket watch on a short test flight. Cartier made his friend a flat, square wristwatch called, appropriately, the Santos. In the process, Cartier popularized wristwatches in France and throughout the world until Today.

In 1912, Cartier introduced the oval Baignoire and tortoise-shell shaped Tortue models, followed in 1917 by Cartier’s most famous early wristwatch, the Tank, which was reportedly inspired by the design of Renault tanks used during World War I. Rudolph Valentino wore a Tank in the 1921 silent classic The Sheik.

In the early 1920s, Cartier partnered with fellow Frenchmen Jaeger and Breguet to produce movements for its watches. Other illustrious Cartier collaborators included Swiss makers Vacheron Constantin, Patek Phillipe, Piaget, and Audemars Piguet.

During the 1920s, Cartier started stamping its watches with four-digit reference numbers—today, knowledgeable collectors know to look for and verify these codes before purchasing an antique Cartier wristwatch. That way, they can tell for certain if the 1932 waterproof Pasha (made for the Pasha of Marrakesh) that they are about to purchase is real or a fake.

By 1940, Cartier had introduced a motoring watch, with a curved shape that was designed to be worn on the inside of the wrist—the winder was on the back of the watch, against the wearer’s skin, rather than the side. And then, in 1942, after the death of Louis Cartier, the company began several decades of stagnation.

Countless variations of the Tank appeared (in the Chinoise, horizontal bars at the top and bottom of the dial rest on the Tank’s vertical "treads"), and in 1965 there was even a watch whose body was shaped like a parallelogram. But it was not until the Must de Cartier in 1976 and the reissue of the Santos in 1978 that the firm was able to reestablish itself as a player on the wristwatch scene.

Attached is an Early 1990 model Lady Panthere, quartz movement, 18KT two tone…

HK Snob

40 Years after its birth, Royal Oak Jumbo has a price!

It has been 40 years after the likely one of most beautiful watch design was created by Gerald Genta in 1972, with continuously applause of such beautiful Watch by watch lovers all over the World, a new Memorial Royal Oak design is created in 2012.

However, the original First Generation Royal Oak indicates that there is a group of die hard collectors looking for it. It is rare as AP produced only very small number of it to test the maket acceptance for the Exquisite Sport Watch as the first time.
Since the timeless 2120 movement was introduced in its Royal Oak case in 1972, with movement thickness of 3.05mm, one of the World’s thinnest mechanical Automatic movement, it provides the Hour, Minutes and Second, Date Display function. At the same time this movement Cal 2120 was being used later on Patek Philippe Nautilus 1976 and Vacheron Constantin Model 222.

The Calibre. 2120 was actually developed by Jaeguar Le Coutre. Now after 40 years, this first generation Royal Oak had appeared in Recent Auction with final bid of HKD$311,250!

Really this is a good start, I have a 18KT Solid gold one… Don’t know how much it values? It is Lower as Some one said than the Stainless steel version, but Someone said it is more expensive!. Well, needless to argue, there I have been seeing more than one time in HK market for Stainless steel Verison, one was In Champangne Court two years back, asking for HKD$59,000.00 as the condition was not too attractive! But the next day I went there, it was sold! The second time I saw it is in auction. I had a wonderful chance to get the Gold one. It is Numbered NO.XX!

It is rare too! It comes with the International Waranty booklet!

HK Snob

Rolex Ref 18038 with Arabian Coat of Arms

Rolex Ref. 18038 Dress up in other straps. The Coat of Arms is beautiful, believe this type of watch with such a condition is extremely rare!

It really looks awesome with a navy green Nato Strap!
This was found his new owner yesterday. (Sold)

HK Snob

Sheffield Cuff Link Watch

This Sheffield Cuff link has a Swiss made manual wind Watch movement. The other one is a Photo frame with cover.

It is in mint condition, I just sent it for Stephen' Overhual, as for the first time after 55 years.

The one beside is a 1930' Masoon Club badge.

HK Snob

Rolex Daytona and Waterman Patrician

Beautiful Life nominated the Most beautiful watches that includes Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date just lady presented in BaselWorld 2010. Framing a dials of different colors from gray to chocolate is fluted or domed bezel encrusted with 24 or 46 scintillating brilliants. At 6 o’clock is the gem-set Roman numeral hour marker. Fresh, refined and extremely elegant, these new Rolex ladies’ luxury models eloquently demonstrate the gracefully feminine style pursued by all ladies’ timepieces. Top Ten Watch UK nominated these watches as the top 10 Most Desirable watch available Today. Through open vote from the people that made these 10 beautiful time pieces ever made and dating back several decades.

1. Rolex Sea Dweller
2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph
3. Breitling Emergency
4. Panerai Radiomir 1936 Special Edition
5. Patek Philippe Calatrava
6. Rolex Cosmograph
7. Omega Seamaster "James Bond"
8. Rolex Submariner Non-Date
9. IWC Big Pilot
10. Audemars Piguet T3 - The Terminator
From these two website, we can see that out of these, Rolex plays a major role in terms of publicity, popularity, appearance, value and image… Being a Rolex Owner, you should be proud of the watch you are wearing. If you had all these watch , then you are one of the man, does not mean you are rich enough but have a good taste enough to match with tehse votes of the Website… Simply not simple!
Watch Critics March 2012 edition Alain Chung has a very good illustration of three beautiful Daytona. The Red. The Blue and Green.. Whereby the dial material is Grossular, Sodalite and Chalcedony respectively. Rolex has been the expert in employing natural gem to make the dial, and those watch value will appreciate once after the production is discontinued. Recent year Rolex seldom work on the special dial made of natural gem as that is not easy and expensive to prepare.
Imagine you have to choose the gem for the even colour, inspection for no micro crack, the gem will be lapped to a thickness 0.4 mm approximately. then screen printing on it.. Laser cut holes and opening, insert the index. It may take 30 processes in order to make one, every process make have certain yield loss. Amongst 00 Pieces of the dials, there may be only 30 pieces is acceepted for use!
And that take a lot of time, effort, skill to achieve that, I can say some time the dial costs 30% of the cost of the whole watch.

Whilst when I search for my vintage fountain pen, the Waterman Patrician has the similar colour and likewise the Charisma…
When Waterman was losing ground to the other big three (Parker, Schaeffer, and Eversharp in 1926, They invested in the design of a new Art Deco Pen Patrician which was then launched in 1929, Entirely made of Celluloid and with a solid gold emblem, a fine big nib, the colour is magnificent. The Turquoise was one of the most beautiful pens 20 Century made. And has been top of the dream pen for Collectors.
Look at these Daytona, and Patrician, they have the similarity… Size is Big, colour is absolutely eye-catching, hand made, The Celluloid tae 5 months to settle before they can put it on the machine to chase. It takes 162 process step to make Rolex Oyster Case.
Price is High, a Patrician was selling at USD$10.00 in 1929. These Three Rolex Daytona will not selling less than 1 Million HK dollar. In my opinion, they are still the most beautiful watch money can buy. And there will be only 200 pieces only for each colour.
In term of personal perference, I like Blue (turquoise the most, then Red (the Ripple Red only in prototype) and Green (Emerald). Further more, Rolex would pursuit of the jewelery artistical excellence by carefully selection of proper colour and size of gemstones in cresating these Daytona. HK Snob

Reference
http://www.beautifullife.info/fashion-design/luxury-watches-the-most-beautiful-and-spectacular-models/
http://top10.watches.co.uk/
Watch Critics Magazine by Alain Chung, March 2012

Rolex Ref 18038 Day Date with Arabian Coat of Arms

Rolex Ref 18038 Day Date With Arabian Coat of Arms.
This is a 1980’s Rolex Solid Gold Day Date With Arabian Coat of Arms. Made in small quantity specially for the Royal Family of Saudi Arabia, Watch and case is for Rolex and Strap is made by Rolex Japan.

HK Snob

Spaceman

After Men had successfully landed on Moon 1969, there are a lot of memorial products created as to celebrate this man kind breakthrough for space exploration, Parker made the first fountain pen T1 made by one piece of Titanium including the nib, the production yield was very low and very expensive and only 2,000 pieces were made.

Inspired by man’s conquest of the moon and the astronauts, Claude Lebet, owner of the Bulle based watch brand Catena asked Le Marquand to create a timepiece. Mr. Le Marquand provided him with his first wristwatch design called, what else, the "Spaceman".

Catena introduced the fleet at the Basel Fair of 1972. The large oval case appeared to be docked on your wrist held by a triple-forked Corfam strap by DuPont. The case also had a coned dome crystal half concealed by a coloured metal visor that allowed viewing of the dial to only the wearer. All hands and markers were perfectly seventies orange with models in a variety of colours only possible during that special decade. Is is power by T-25 at night.

The watches were powered by automatic and manual winding mechanical ETA movements and were distributed by a variety brands, among them Jules Jurgensen, Fortis, Tressa and Zeno. This is one of them… Automatic, Day Date! Production period is from 1972-1977, the one shown is made in 1973.
HK Snob

The Price of pre-owned Rolex in Hong Kong.

According to What I have checked with major shop of Rolex in Mongkok and Sham Shui Po area.

This is roughly the price of it. All are in Hong Kong Dollars
Please note that the price is depending on the condition of the watch, whether there is original birth certificate, box, of the watch.

Here is a roughly range of price of the popular models:

Submariner Ref 116610LN New Watch is HKD$58995, pre-owned watch is HKD$30,000 – 53,000.00

Submariner Ref 16610LV Green Dial Green bezel New is HKD$66,100, pre-owned is HKD$66,000-68,000 with original Certificate and box.

DeepSea Ref 16600 New is HKD$78,735, pre-owned is HKD$50,000- 67,000.

Explorer II Ref 16570 Black dial new is dis-continued, pre-owned one is HKD$27,000-HKD$38,000 while white dial is still slightly lower in price than white with same watch condition.

Explorer I Ref 214270 new at HKD$43,605, pre-owned one is about HKD$21,050- HKD$26,000

Daytona Stainless steel black dial Ref 116520BL new at HKD$87,500, pre-owned one is about HKD$71,.000 to HKD$85,800

Daytona Stainless steel While dial ref 116520 pre-owned price between HKD$72,500- HKD$78,000.

Yacht master 40 mm Ref 16622 new at HKD$83,125, pre-owned one is about HKD$52,000 to HKD$63,000.00

You can see the price of stainless steel Rolex is highest for Daytona, followed by DeepSea, Yacht Master, Submariner II, Black then white, Explorer I.

This is a price reference for you only. There is no idea on telling you what is best in buying in the pre-owned watch market in HK. I have seen some of the watch is selling actually almost the same price as new watch in Rolex AD. Why I have to buy in these second hand market for an used watch with such a high price!?

Also, do not forget to negotiate and some time when you keep on asking, they can allow some discount on the price for you but not much, usually it is about 3%-5% more maximum.

But one thing, you should take some times finding more shops before you buy it.
And Don't think the seller is stupid in putting good watch at low price, as old Chinese said, “There is no such big toad jumping on the road”

Happy Go Shopping Rolex….

Sham Shui Po Snob

Is Tourbillon watch more accurate!?

Tourbillon was patented by watch making Master Abraham Louis Breguet. That patent has long since expired. Tourbillon is French for "whirlwind." This is because the mechanism literally spins on itself. Breguet's ideas was essentially to house a clock within a clock.

If you have a balance wheel that rotates, rotating on itself. If you understand the concept of a balance wheel, you know that it does not just turn endlessly in one direction. Rather, it moves in a back and forth manner, like a revolving pendulum. This is often referred to as balance wheel oscillation. In fact, a balance wheel is a pendulum, and the consistency of its back and forth rotations are the basis for mechanical watch movement accuracy. Of course, if the frequency is higher, likely by right, it would be more accurate. That is why Grand Seiko has a Hi Beat of 36,000 cycles per hour.

No matter what type of tourbillon used, the purpose is the same, to counteract the effects of gravity that may alter the accuracy and reliability of a balance wheel's oscillations.

A tourbillon is a in fact a balance wheel that itself rotates, but the balance wheel rotates in one direction (not oscillation), and it typically make full rotation every 60 seconds, but some design rotates every 30 seconds. For this reason, the tourbillon is often used at the seconds counter when it is used in a watch. A convenient way of putting in a second counter.

The main theory behind how a tourbillon is supposed to work, is that the balance wheel rotates to all positions in purpose of off setting the effect gravity might have on it being stuck in one position consistently. So if the balance wheel is constantly moving, then minor deviations here and there will be canceled out. But that is purely theory, as our hands are moving in all direction, the watch is not placed in juts one position. The cancellation effect is multi-degree-variation-complex. There is no fixed rate of gravity cancellation in each of the gesture position.

Most watch manufacturer actually agree but not to admit that even if the tourbillon is able to perfectly cancelling out rate affecting effects of gravity on a balance wheel, this is not the key to ensuring accuracy.


There are researches that have shown that Breguet's theories on tourbillon’s improvement are neglectible or even not effective at all on accuracy.
This carries a result that all effort in making and implementing a tourbillon movement does almost nothing to increase accuracy. Instead, a well constructed traditional watch that is finely tuned will beat out a tourbillon based watch anytime in terms of accuracy.


Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Blancpain, among others headed this movement. The first tourbillon-based watches were interesting, but lacked much of what people needed in a watch. Like the AP introduced in 1985, it is delicate, semi auto-wound of low efficiency, and often not very easy to read.
20 years later, automatic tourbillon movements arrived along with a number of aesthetic and functional variations, but of course the nature of the movement provided that it would always be delicate.

As such tourbillons will always remain a piece of art and miracle for curiosity, rather than watch improving technological innovations.

There are really only two reasons for a tourbillon based watch, and neither of them have anything to do with increased accuracy or reliability. A tourbillon is interesting and excited to look at. It is always in motion and attracts attention and really makes the watch seem more alive beside tick-taks,. This is especially true with the multi-axis tourbillon movements with their constant gyration. The visual splendor is there, but arguably not worth the incredible premium. Moreover it brings us such tourbillon watch is pure showiness and prestige.

Attached is the famous Blancpain Torubillon, It is simple design, it works! Blancpain Tourbillon would give you extra viewing effect beside accurate time keeping, why not?

HK Snob

Rolex Datejust lady Ref 69173 and 79173

This is Rolex lady Datejust probably the most popular model for middle class people who wear it everyday in all occasions in Hong Kong.

Or the most favouriate choice for buying as a gift for your mother and or your 2nd wife!?
Why Do I say so as I know at least five of my friends had this watch given to their 2nd wife as a gift.
Pre-owned one with box and certificates is about HKD$33,000-37,000
That is a life time you-do-not-have-to-care-watch for women…

If you buy a Patek Philippe dress watch for a woman, especially a pretty one… likely she came back to you as a complaint as the watch was stopped because she soaked it in water when she washes hand, or dropped it in the toilet like she does with her iPhone, or let it Cleaned thoroughly in the washing machine with the clothes…. But if that is a Rolex… it will be survived!

It adds a bit elegancy to the one if she is tall and slim but not short and stalky.

attached is the Ref 79173 with mother of pearl dial for all ages and one on right Ref 69173 with diamond on dial , the later one may be perfect if you are above 35.
HK Snob

Ball Engineer Master II Diver TMT

Ball sold jewelry, silverware, clocks, and watches, from his small shop near the railroad tracks in Cleveland in the 1880s. Due to a fatal wreck in 1891 in Kipton, Ohio the General Superintendent of the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern Railroad appointed Ball as Chief Inspector to investigate the industry's timekeeping practices and formulate inspection standards. He served the railroad industry well and soon, his standardization policy was in place throughout 125,000 miles of track in the USA, Canada and Mexico.

Ball watches are perhaps one of the best known names in railroad watches. However, they did not make watches. Webb C. Ball, founder of the Ball Watch Co. of Cleveland, Ohio was the driving force behind the development of the extremely accurate class of watches "approved for railroad service".

In 1891, seizing the opportunity, Ball contracted with watch companies such as Elgin, Waltham Hamilton, E. Howard, Hampden and others, to provide him with watch movements that met his strict standards. He then inserted these movements into high quality cases that bore the name of the Ball Watch Company on the outside. By 1908, the Ball Watch company was furnishing high grade pocket watches to over 100 different railroad systems. Since then, pocket watches that bore the Ball watch company name have been considered to be the Rolls-Royce of Railroad pocket watches.

At BALL Watch, innovation and creativity are the cornerstones on the foundation of the corporate mission, "Accuracy Under Adverse Conditions". Continuing in the tradition of Webster Clay Ball, BALL Watch aspires to manufacture the most accurate mechanical watches on the planet, ruggedized for use by those that live / work / play in truly adverse conditions. With unlimited inspiration, BALL is today setting the standards just as Webster Clay Ball did in the late 1800s and through the early 1900s. Most of BALL Watch equipped with ETA movement modified for Ball’s tough application specification in Switzerland.

All BALL Watches are a 7,500 G force shock resistance, the -40 degree Celsius temperature rating, and a patented crown protection system.

Attached is the limited Engineer M aster II Diver TMT watch limited 2006 pieces. The sample show here is 0555, made in year of 2006. a Solid built Automatic watch strong to last, beautiful to be eye-catching, cost effective for everyone could afford. It was Sold at About HKD $12,500.00

Note the word T-25, it stands for the life time of GTLS stands for Gaseous Tritium Light Sources, these are tiny glass vials with a thin coating of Phosphorescent substance on the inside wall. Filled with Tritium gas and then sealed tight with a laser beam. Tritium (H3) is a radioactive isotope of Hydrogen, It has a half life of 12.3 years. During the decay of Tritium, a low energy electron is emitted. This process so called beta Radiation. During this process of decay the tritium molecule becomes a stable Helium molecules. The emitted electron hits the thin coating of Phosphorescent substance and is converted into visible cold light. The colour of the light depends on the types of the phosphorescent substance being used. The life time of it is 12.3x2 = 25 years, that was what it printed as T-25, Tritium 25 years!

HK Snob

Rolex Survives from the Top of the World to the Bottom of the Sea

On 23 Jan 1960, a Rolex was carried with the Trieste on his virgin historic dive to 10,916 Metres at World’s deepest place under Mariana Trench at the west Pacific Ocean, near Guam.
After 52 years, on 26 March 2012, Nat Geo Explorer in –residence James Cameron, on board the Deepsea Challenge prepared for go deeper. Another new Rolex is part of the deep dive Expedition: A Rolex Sea Dweller marked Deepsea Challenge.
Rolex builds its most popular Sport watch for many fans over the years, Submariner is still the best seller of all the professional diver watch.
The Company, Rolex itself is unique in that it is still privately owned and that the principal shareholder is a private family trust all of whose profits are given to charity. Due to this unique structure it does not have to concern itself with short-term profit goals and can therefore plan for the long term. Rolex is one of the largest producer for Hi Quality Chronometers in Switzerland after, Rolex does not have Tourbillon, nor repeater, However, Rolex is without doubt the most recognized watch in the world, what is not so well known is that the modern Rolex is the basis of almost all modern watches. The waterproof case, the self winding movement, the date window in the dial, the GMT two time zone watch and the diving watch are all Rolex inventions. Go to your near Rolex Authorized Dealer and put down your VISA Credit card then…Select a Rolex DeepSea or Submariner or you!

HK Snob

All Major Rolex Models and Price discount in Hong Kong Rolex Authorized Dealers

For many people who keeps on aking me price of Rolex, and there are 500 comment asking the same questions about the current price of Rolex, I had hard time to reply but supported by friends who is working in Rolex AD and Dealers, I still manage to update them with latest price, but due to Swiss France appreciation in 2011, at the same time HK Dollars is pegged with green back. Rolex has adjusted the price 4 times in 2011, and 5 times for Tudor. In So far, Rolex has yet announced the price changes…Good luck!
But It is hard to track the price soon as I can see there will be price changes soon as Rolex did every year, an average of 10-15% increase in the past 10 years, So why not I put a rough estimation on every of the major models…

The Models: Rolex currently produces around a dozen different Oyster Perpetual models. Rolex also has their dress line, Orchid 50-60 and later Cellini. For ladies they make the 23mm Oyster-Perpetual, 26mm Date & Datejust, and 29mm Yacht-Master. In mid-size, you can get the 31mm Datejust or 35mm Yacht-Master (the only sport model offered in a case smaller than 40mm). Lastly there are the gents: 34mm Date & Air-King; 36mm Datejust, Explorer & President; and the 40mm Daytona, Explorer II, GMT-Master-II, Sea-Dweller, Submariner, and Yacht-Master. The new one like Explorer II, Sky-Dweller is made of a larger size of 42mm.
Some models like the gents Datejust currently have about 10 model numbers in production... The numbers help differentiate the different metals and bezels used. Dial colors are not included, so that leaves one with dozens of new Datejust choices... The Sea-Dweller in comparison is offered only in steel, only with a black dial, and only as Ref. 16600

Air-King: The Air-King could be considered the "entry level" model from Rolex. Current models retail for HKD$43,000 with the smooth bezel fitted, with the engine turned bezel, or HKD$49,000 with the White Gold bezel. It is 34mm in diameter and comes with an Oyster bracelet by default. The Air-King does not have a Date. In the 1970s, the Air-King was offered with a date and in gold & steel combinations which was rare! Those two variations likely ceased production since they are redundant next to the Date and Oyster Perpetual models. Rolex Air-King Watches.

Date: The Rolex Date is 34mm like the Air-King, but it obviously includes a date function. Its production began in the late 1950s, around the time the steel Datejust was introduced. Retails range from HKD$45,000 with a smooth bezel and Oyster bracelet to HKD$60,500 with an 18K white gold fluted bezel and diamond markers. The date model was once offered in 3 flavors: steel, 18k yellow & steel, and all 18k yellow gold. It is now only available in steel.

Datejust: The Datejust is the best selling Rolex model on the market, 60% of Rolex model is Datejust and has been for decades. It was first introduced in 1945. The gents model is 36mm in diameter and typically came on a Jubilee bracelet. Rolex seems to have changed their tradition on this and is sending more Datejust models out the door with the Oyster band. Models with smooth bezels are available, but less common. Most have the fluted bezel, which is 18k white gold on the steel model.

The Datejust was only available in gold until 1957 (conveniently a year after the release of the Day-Date which still has never seen a steel model). The steel Datejust was introduced and became an instant success. Rolex soon saw the steel variations selling much quicker than their gold models. Rolex countered this in 1962 when they introduced the gold and steel version..

Ladies Date/Datejust: These two models use the same 26mm case mold and offer the exact same functionality. Rolex discontinued the ladies Date, there was so much overlap in the models that it seemed long overdue. Retails range from HKD$46,600 for the most current 171960 steel Datejust. The more popular Datejust with White gold bezel retails for HKD$49,000. The Gold & Steel models start at HKD$606,00 (179173) and go up to HKD$97,000 for a 179313 with diamond mother of pearl dial and 12 diamond bezel.

Explorer: It was introduced in 1954, and has had one look through-out its life; a black dial with Arabic numbers at 3', 6' and 9', no date, smooth bezel, Oyster bracelet, and a stainless steel 36mm case. Except for the updates that all Rolex watches have received, it remained essentially the same watch. Today the watch retails for HKD$46,600 Rolex has announced an update to a 39mm case for the Explorer.

Explorer II: This model was introduced in the early 70's and was never widely distributed or popular until 1991. The original model was produced until the current model was released in 1985. The Explorer II uses the same movement as the GMT-II models and makes use of a secondary 24-hour hand that rotates once every day. The engraved steel bezel is stationary and was originally designed for speleologists (cave explorers) who can have a hard time determining if it is am or pm. Today its new Explorer II retails for HKD$50,500 and comes with only one choice: a black or a white dial. - Rolex Explorer Watches.

Oyster Perpetual: An odd name for a model considering every Rolex mentioned on this page is also an Oyster Perpetual... By itself, the "Rolex Oyster Perpetual" was basically the same as the smaller 34mm Air-King model. The Current Oyster Perpetual (no-date) is now the same size as the Datejust and comes only in steel or steel with white gold bezel. Rolex has introduced several unusual dials for this model. Retails start at $45,000 for the simplest ladies Oyster Perpetual and $42,000 for the simplest men's Oyster Perpetual. Both come standard with an Oyster bracelet.

Submariner: The Submariner was introduced by Rolex in 1954. The watch comes only on an Oyster bracelet and has a 40mm case. The steel model is only available with a black dial, and is one of the most recognizable Rolexes. Anniversary editions with green bezels can occasionally be found. The Submariner has the common single direction rotating diving bezel with minute markers for the first 15 minutes. The original models until 1958 are often considered "James Bond" models and have some easily recognizable difference. Primarily, they had a smaller crown, no crown guard, and the bezel only had minute markers every 5 minutes. In the late 70s the model 16800 was introduced. It sported the new sapphire crystal and quick-set function. In 1989, the 16610 was introduced with an improved movement and a more secure bezel, that is the most advanced and yet beautiful Submariner so far claimed by most of Submariner Collectors. In 2010, the 116610 was introduced with a ceramic (Cerachrom) bezel and improved “Glidelock” buckle. The Submariner is one the most popular models and comes in 4 styles, $49,900 for steel (no date), HKD$62,100 for steel (with date) for the new Ceramic model, $90,000 for 18k gold and; steel, and HKD$250,850 for the yellow gold model or HKD$263,600 for white gold.

Sea Dweller: The Sea Dweller was introduced in 1971 and discontinued in 2008. It is virtually the same watch as the Submariner. The only real differences are the thicker and heavier steel case, thicker crystal with no cyclops eye, and the helium escape valve useful only to deep divers. The original model was rated for 2000 feet and called the "Rolex Submariner 2000 Sea Dweller". It lost the "Submariner 2000" part of the title in 1973. The current issue, model 16600, is rated to 4000 feet and is sold only in steel. The Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA, model 116660, has replaced the Sea-Dweller model 16600 and retails for HKD$82,500. The DEEPSEA model offers a greater depth rating (to 12,800 feet) along with a thicker, larger case and an improved "Glidelock" buckle

GMT-Master: The 1950s were an exciting decade for Rolex and included the introduction of the classic GMT- Master. It was one of the first watches to utilize a second hour hand to indicate a second time zone. With the simple rotating 24 hour bezel, one could fairly easily tell the time in any time zone. The late 70s saw the introduction of the GMT-Master II which was basically the same, except now the user could easily adjust the 2nd hour hand with the crown in position 2. The steel models are only offered with black dials. The bezels are available in all black, red/ black, or red / blue. GMT's typically come with a Jubilee bracelet installed.

The original GMT-Master (16700) was phased out in the late 90s. The latest serial number Bernard's had for the 16700 was a U#, putting its birthday around 1997. With the flood of new models with a second time zone function from other manufactures, retiring it was a smart move, as most consumers will want to adjust the 2nd hour hand.

The GMT-Master II (16710) was discontinued in 2008 and replaced with the GMT-Master II (116710) The primary difference besides the 3186 caliber movement with Parachrom Bleu hairspring is the ceramic (Cerachrom) bezel. Some late production 16710s have been discovered with the 3186 movement.

The GMT-Master II with green hand retails for $62,100 in steel, HKD$91,500 in steel and gold, and HKD$256,000 for solid gold.

Daytona / Cosmograph: The story of the Rolex Cosmograph could be called the most chaotic of all the Rolex Oyster models. Rolex is keen on creating a winning product. The watch never really got off the ground until 1986 when the market for them exploded and the watches would often sell for double the retail price in Italy. The "Paul Newman" models manufactured around 1967 were and still are the most desirable of the Daytona models fetching prices over HKD$400,000. It retailed for around HKD$25,500 back then In 1989, Rolex replaced he Valjoux workhorse movement with the Zenith El Premiro movement. During the 1990s, the Daytona was the only Rolex model not using a Rolex movement. In 2000 came the newly developed Rolex caliber 4130 with a 72 hour power reserve. The steel 116520 retails at $84,000. Steel and Gold models retail for $113,000 and all 18K yellow gold for $265,000. Steel Daytona's have consistently sold for more than retail since the 1992. The two-tone and gold models do not sell for over retail, unlike their steel counterparts.

Note: Price listed here is rough estimation only, normally we can get 5% discount from Rolex AD in HK on these prices. Special Discount is available for certain model for some VIP. Contact me for more information.

HK Snob

Rolex White Gold Orchid

I bought this white gold dress watch for my mother in 1976 with HKD$5,500. She gave it to me recently after knowing that I am watch collector. This watch was never been serviced at all after 30 years. This is real good Rolex Quality, or may be my storage is Good. As I used to take out and let it run it for a couple of days before storing it again.

HK Snob

Rolex 15200 Date

This model is very basic and does not come with the fluted or machines bezel. The bezel on this watch is smooth and very plain looking. It is all time favourite work horse for men and women. Right size, right tone, right price and right Rolex Quality, can be used for all occasions, a friend of mine a VP for a Taiwanese company use this watch for 20 years, never been having any trouble, he did not send it to Rolex centre for service, even he came to walk with me for 100Km Trail walker with this watch for three years.
It is basic watch with Date, perpetual calendar, oyster strap, stainless still, nothing is made of gold, this is good for those people who is allergy for gold!
This example shows the Rolex registered design of the watch case. This particular watch is the 15200 design which is all stainless steel in construction.
Many older Rolex watches can still be found that have the original green hologram on the back of the watch case.
It is interesting that on this watch, the original hologram label has a Rolex crown that is a cross between the older Rolex crown design and the newer versions. The balls are larger as in the newer designs, but the length of the crown spires are still shorter than the older versions.

HK Snob

New 2012 Rolex Sky-Dweller

The Rolex 2012 Collection showcases Sky-Dweller was presented at BaselWorld 2012,

The New Rolex for global travelers, with two time zones and an annual calendar. Inspired with Rolex Engineering with 14 patented designs.

A particularly ingenious patented mechanism Saros annual calendar inspired by an astronomical phenomenon differentiates between 30-day and 31-day months, just four additional gear wheels. You need just one adjustment per year on the date!

With a revolutionary annual calendar offering unparalleled robustness and reliability for such a complex watchmaking function. This annual calendar’s qualities are attributable to an ingenious mechanism named Saros, patented by Rolex. Its original design was directly inspired by the astronomical phenomenon of the same name.

Discover the sophistication and simplicity of this revolutionary timepiece and explore the Sky-Dweller's features

Ref 32695 is come with new Calibre 9001, 40 rubies, reserved with 72 hours, 42mm Oyster Perpetual

A bit surprise on how it can maintain the water proof function between the bezel and the watch itself!? What a Rolex genius patented design!

Hontesy, looking at this picture not the real watch not until I can a real watch on my hand to review. Base on what I get from Rolex Website, it seems to me it is not too easy to read the information such as the month and the local time, and the local time zone dial is offset to one side without moving indicators, that is hard to read.

The Name Sky-Dweller sounds a bit uneasy to me, Sea Dweller is good name but not Sky-Dweller. Something Likes Flyer King, Traveller Master, World Traveller, Air Master, or something like Sky-Sniper, Air-Sniper, Air Chaser, Time Traverser, Air Speeder, Time Speeder, Air Transporter, City Voyager, Air Expedition, Time Expeditionist...can be considered etc...

Knowing that Rolex does not want to have drastic changes on th dial design and they want to move it graudually to test the public acceptance. Even the name, this may be the key factor of Rolex's Success!

Calibre
9001, Manufacture Rolex
Mechanical movement with bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor on ball bearing
Precision
Officially certified Swiss chronometer (COSC)
Functions
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
24-hour display on off-centre disc
Second time zone via independent rapid-setting of the hour hand
Instantaneous annual calendar at 3 o’clock with Saros system and unrestricted bidirectional rapid-setting of the date
Month display via 12 apertures around the circumference of the dial
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
Oscillator
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring
Breguet overcoil
Large balance wheel with variable inertia
High-precision regulating via four gold Microstella nuts
Traversing balance bridge
High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers
Jeweling
40 rubies
Power reserve
Approximately 72 hours

Specifications

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
Reference (case – Bracelet): 326939 – 72419
Case
Type: Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)
Diameter: 42 mm
Material: 18 ct white gold, polished finish
Case back: Screw-down with Rolex fluting
Bezel: Fluted, bidirectional rotatable Ring Command
Winding crown: Screw-down, Twinlock double waterproof system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant synthetic sapphire
Cyclops lens (2.5 ×) over the date, double anti-reflective coating
Waterproof: 100 metres (330 feet)
Dial
Colour: Ivory, satin finish
Hour markers: Roman numeral appliques in 18 ct white gold
Hands: 18 ct white gold with phosphorescent material
Bracelet
Type: Oyster, three-piece solid links
Material: 18 ct white gold, polished centre links and satin-finished outer links with polished edges
Clasp: Folding Oysterclasp
Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
Reference (case – Bracelet): 326938 – 72418
Case
Type: Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)
Diameter: 42 mm
Material: 18 ct yellow gold, polished finish
Case back: Screw-down with Rolex fluting
Bezel: Fluted, bidirectional rotatable Ring Command
Winding crown: Screw-down, Twinlock double waterproof system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant synthetic sapphire
Cyclops lens (2.5 ×) over the date, double anti-reflective coating
Waterproof: 100 metres (330 feet)
Dial
Colour: Champagne, sunray finish
Hour markers: Arabic numeral appliques in 18 ct yellow gold
Hands: 18 ct yellow gold with phosphorescent material
Bracelet
Type: Oyster, three-piece solid links
Material: 18 ct yellow gold, polished centre links and satin-finished outer links with polished edges
Clasp: Folding Oysterclasp
Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link


Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
Reference (case – strap): 326935 – Brown alligator leather
Case
Type: Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)
Diameter: 42 mm
Material: 18 ct Everose gold, polished finish
Case back: Screw-down with Rolex fluting
Bezel: Fluted, bidirectional rotatable Ring Command
Winding crown: Screw-down, Twinlock double waterproof system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant synthetic sapphire
Cyclops lens (2.5 ×) over the date, double anti-reflective coating
Waterproof: 100 metres (330 feet)
Dial
Colour: Chocolate, sunray finish
Hour markers: Arabic numeral appliques in 18 ct pink gold
Hands: 18 ct pink gold with phosphorescent material
StrapMaterial: Brown Alligator mississippiensis leather
Clasp: Folding Oysterclasp in 18 ct Everose gold

Only Solid Gold version is available, Hong Kong Rolex AD will have stock about September, Price TBA.
HK Snob