The Thinner The Better: Piaget

Piaget was founded in 1874 by Georges Edouard Piaget. Piaget is widely known for its magnificent jeweled dress watches - and for its Polo line of watches which has been redesigned into various incarnations over its 25 year history. In 1956 Piaget launched the first mechanical ultra thin movement with manual winding 9P calibre. They became the masters of ultra thin movements. Later on in 1960 they manufactured another ultra thin movement the 12P which landed them in the Guinness Book of Records as the thinnest self-winding movement (2.3 mm) in the world. Piaget is also recognized though for its watch movements and parts that are often used by other watch manufacturers (particularly Cartier and other brands in the Richemont watch group)
Attached Picture shows Altiplano manual 9P (1957) and automatic 12P (1960)

The other is the world's thinnest Auto movement 12P from Piaget!HK Snob

The Thin Cult Classic Universal Gold Shadow

In the 60s, Universal has made the thinnest watch I have ever seen, remember I went to see a displayed Universal at Swiss Watch Company at Central, I stayed there for 10 minutes from side to see how thin it was. That is so thin that is not thicker than one HK dollar coin. The price was about HKD$1,300, don't forget that an Rolex Date Just Two Tone was selling at HKD$1760 in 1976, So you can tell that this watch is very expensive in the year of 1965. That was Universal Golden Shadow and White Shadow were first produced in 1965 and were the thinnest automatic watch movements at the time, with a thickness of only 2.3mm. This record was held until 1978. The Shadows were also designed by Gerald Genta who invented the Famous AP Royal and PP Nautilus and were available in 18K yellow and white gold as the Golden Shadow, and in stainless steel as the White Shadow. Both watches contained the Caliber 2-66 micro rotor movement up until the late 1960s.
These GOLDEN SHADOWS are highly sought after and very difficult to find, I would go as far to say they are considered to be a cult classic amongst collectors. Universal Geneve was founded in 1894 and today produces EXTREMELY expensive watches. in If you are seeking a slim, spectacular looking and high quality dress watch; and also want it to be modest in size-here it is!

HK Snob

Vintage Rado SeaHorse and the latest Rado made of Ceramos Material

Rado Seahorse is a High grade Swiss automatic with Rado's famous rotating anchor. This Swiss made watch is an automatic, and has the date at the three o'clock spot. The watch also features a sweep secondhand. I bought Rado Seahorse in 1970, I remember the sea horse was blue. It was HKD$120.00.
It was a very durable watch, I had put the watch in the top Cold storage compartment of my Refrigerator overnight and next day I put it in hot waterr to study how durable the watch could be… and it was passed. I used to play watch Tug of war by resting the watch ‘s crown on my other watch’s crown and see which watch was going to stop first, It was a common Game we played for watch in the 70’s.
The next picture is the latest Rado Ceramos material to make watch, There seems has some shadow of the 70’s Seahorse. I had found another Art Deco Design Oval shaped Rado. That is a good example of beautiful Rado!
Anyway, the Rado was one of the watch I had in the 70.
HK Snob
Ps
Ceramos® evolves from the platinum-coloured high-tech ceramic which Rado introduced in 1993. This ceramic and metal composite was designed to have the optimal properties of both components. Today Ceramos® accommodates a unique platinum steel look for use in sharp, edgy designs. It is a light material, which adjusts quickly to skin temperature, offering unrivalled comfort levels when used to make watch bracelets and cases. It is hard as up to Vickers hardness at least 1200, which is harder than Gold, Steel and Platinum. Ceramos is super resistant to scratches. Hardness of Diamond is Vickers 10,000.

This is my first Omega Classic De Ville.

I bought this watch at one small watch shop in Kowloon City with HKD$1,080 in 1981. After 5 years, I sold it to one of my best friends KM Chan at HKD$800. He has been using this watch for many years. Omega had once produced the best watch in the 60's till 80's. You know that Omega was once more expensive than Rolex in the same category and class. But After 80's Rolex overtaken Omega in price and also in quality.
Today, whilst we had a tea with KM in the morning, I saw that watch again, he knows and every year whilst we meet, he worn that watch and showed me! But he never want to sell it back to me!
This is the first Omega I had first purchased. I can see the plating of gold is so thick that it looks 80 microns; is that Older is always better!? Note Also the Art Deco dial Design, it is beautiful, classic, simple, accurate and thin! What else you want from HKD$1,080?
HK Snob

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

In 1952, the French "Nageuers de combat" (combat swimmers) was instituted by the French government as an elite team of tactical soldiers - the NAVY Seals of France. Captain Bob Maloubier was at the helm of this group, whose missions included underwater intelligence, sabotaging operations, and clandestine port-attacks. The team was already using tools such as compasses, depth gauges, and yes, watches, but none were specifically designed for the rugged tasks at hand. He was the original Designer for Fifty Fathoms, and he approached LIP and then the very small company of Blancpain to make this diving watch for him, that was 1954. Today there are about 20 variations of Blancpain and I used to have one A "No Radiations" Model From 1966. but I looked at the case carefully, and saw that there are very rough case profile and I suspected that was a fake,, and in fact I had not so much knowledge at that time, so I sold it to some one, Today, I fell regret as that is a rare watch, and that is beautiful. How Can I get this watch again!?
The picture shown here is the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms limited to 500 pcs Only.
Blancpain had announced that they produce mechanical watch only and never will make any quartz watch! This may be the only one swiss company that can definitely say they produce Mechanical watch only.
HK Snob

Breitling Navitimer

Breitling Navitimer is a great name that went back to 1954, The original Breitling Navigation & Time was developed as a navigator watch for Pilots, who could use the slide rule to calculate remaining distance, fuel consumption, beside the time keeping.
It can be classified as one of the most important watches for flying professions besides Rolex GMT Master and it has gone through so many years and likely four generations of Design Changes, It is one of the most durable, beautiful and presentable cult watch for air borne flyer.
HK Snob
The Picture was taken at HKIA by Nolia N97 mini Hand set.
Ps This gentleman has a complete collection of Breitling Navitimer.
http://people.timezone.com/breitling/bfaq/Reviews--Navitimer.html

What we would buy for your beloved one in Saint Valentines’ Day?

* Courtesy of Cartier

Life is a time-series of romances a continuum of events and eipsodes that takes us through all peaks and valleys, something faster than we can feel. Time moves in haste, but one thing for sure makes its stand still:Love! Buy a watch for your wife, mistress, parents, daughters and sons... that will keep your intimate relationhsip last till that watch can move...Someone says that it is not necesary to buy anything other than a bunch of flowers.
I would rather prefer watch as whenever she looks at the watch, she might remember you.
Of course if you can afford, buy a Rolex, as its value would likely been maintaining as money tends to depreciating year after year.
For those who are still not going to marry or your budget is limited. You can consider something functional, unique and beautiful. We have found that Lancaster Italy has some beautiful creation of watch, likely not too expensive, in the range of HKD$2,000.
This Lancaster Italy Bongo men's watch is a real Italian statement watch. The sharp black dial along with the black rubber band is sure to dazzle all your friends. It is for men.
How about a gift for girl, well, Rolex Ref 179175, 178274, 179171, 179173, 179171, 178240 or if budget allows go for a Ref 179159. Needless to say a Submariner Ref 116610 LV for after-office usage. If budget is tight, a Technomarine, a Philip Stern, Longines, Movado or a Swatch!

How about a Cartier Ballon Bleu W69002Z2 Pink Gold White Gold with inlaid Diamonds for the sophisticated feminine lady? It does not matter what kind of watch, so long it is from you she will like it.
HK Snob

History of Rolex's Flag Ship: Date Day

The Rolex Day Date across the world has become synonymous with class, taste and style. This watch remains one of the most prestigious additions a man can have to his wardrobe.

The Birth of Date Day
The 6511 the "Day Date" had a window at 12 spelling out the day at 12 and the date was shown at 3. Patented July 23. 1955 - officially Released in 1956 after Rolex had been enjoying quite a barren spell in the sale of its complicated timepieces it soon began to revive fortune..

President Bracelet
An additional day and date discs and a screw down back it was a very large and thick watch which gave it presence on the wrist. Due to the complexity of the watch, with its automatic movement,. Introduced as a niche model it soon gained the popularity it deserved and after the introduction of the concealed clasp (concealed clasp was offer as $75 option in 1969) it was known as the "President".

Flag Ship Model
The Day Date became Rolex's flagship. The first model (6511) lasted just over a year before it was replaced by the externally identical 6611 with caliber 1055 movement with its free sprung Micro-Stella balance and was the first to be labeled "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" on the dial. This new accuracy standard guaranteed the watch to remain within + 3.0 seconds per day.
Date Day Caliber
In 1959 caliber 1055 was replaced with caliber 1555 in model 1803 (18,000bph) and later In 1965 - model 1803 received caliber 1556 (19,800bph).
In 1977 caliber 3055 (quick-set) was introduced in model 18038.
In 1988 caliber 3155 (double quick-set) was introduced in model 18238.
Caliber 3155 is the caliber still used today in all Day-Date models.


President Watch
The Day Date earned the nickname the "President" when Rolex reportedly gave one to the then President of the United States Dwight Eisenhower. Some sources say that President Eisenhower was actually given a Date Just with the presidential bracelet. But it is a fact that several other US presidents are known to wear Day-Date (Roosevelt, Kennedy, Johnson, Nixon, Ford, Reagan, but seems Clinton, Bush and Obama does not wear Rolex Date Day, that may indicate that the recent US President has lost their glory on the wrist than in the past! (Clinton had a Roger Dubuis Muchmore, George Bush Worn a Cheap Electronics Digital watch and Obama has a few including a Tag Huer.)


Shape of the Date Day
These early models appeared rather bulky. In their never ending quest to modernize the basic configuration of the Day Date, Rolex have changed from the bulbous bubbleback look of the early models to the slender shape employed today.
With only a few mild case design changes over the year the first modification to the Day Date was the addition of the hack feature in about 1972. This allowed the second hand to be stopped dead if you wanted to set the time via a preset accurate source.


Material for Date Day
The Day Date was available in white gold, yellow gold, pink gold and platinum although in early 70's the pink gold watch was fazed out. If you had a Date Day in stainless steel, that is a prototype and that can be a great treasure in Auction.

Quick Set
The "Quick set" feature (caliber 3055) solved one of the watches biggest problems. Introduced in the late 1970's Quick set was introduced to all Rolex models by 1983. Instead of turning the crown round and round to change the day the wearer could just pull the button out half way and a few turns at most and the correct date was displayed.

Sapphire Crystal
The introduction of the quick set feature also coincided with other developments for the Day Date. The inclusion of the sapphire crystal not only gave the watch a sleeker look but also added to the durability of the watch. Introduced in 1977, the sapphire crystal fitted tighter than the plastic glass employed before and rendered the watch glass scratch proof near enough. The early Day Date models were waterproof to 165 feet (50 meters) while the current model is safe at depths of up to 100 meters. At the same time the current model is much slimmer.

Double Quick Set
Introduced in 1988/89 was the "Double Quick Set" watch with caliber 3155. This was model 18238 and it made the setting of the Day and Date even easier as they could both be done on the button. Rolex has also increasingly expanded their "Crown Collection" to include all types of precious stones by now although they were available with diamonds on the bezel from their introduction.


Pink Gold Date Day
From the end of 2000 the Day Date has been available in pink gold again. The watch has also been introduced with slightly redesigned case with polished lugs, smooth bezel is now domed, a domed sapphire crystal, solid center links on now heavier bracelet and can also come on an oyster bracelet to bring it in line with many of their other models.
Sham Shui Po Snob

2012, Audemars Piguet Celebrates Royal Oak's 40th Anniversary

It has been 40 yeas after the likely one of most beautiful watch designs was invented by Gerald Genta in 1972, with continuously applause of such beautiful Watch by watch lovers all over the World, a new Memorial Royal Oak design is created in 2012.
Since the timeless 2121 movement was introduced in its Royal Oak case in 1972, with movement thickness of 3.05mm, one of the World’s thinnest mechanical Automatic movement, it provides the Hour, Minutes and Second, Date Display function. In 2012, AP introduces a new Tourbillon ultra thin Skeleton masterpiece. The movement is still assembled with meticulous procedure as AP did 40 years ago. The Skeleton Watch case installed the State-of-The-Art tourbillon module, recalled the World First Tourbillon Automatic AP which shocked the World in 1986.
The new movement is Cal. 2924 is new with tourbillon assembly placed in a yet delicate but super tough Platinum dark grey case of 41mm with mere 4.46mm thick. The Power drum is Yellow gold which has a drastic Colour contrast with the case. Highly appreciatible! The Time display is on the front and Power reserve indicator on the back is the design layout.
Frequency is 21,600 CPS (3 Hertz) with power reserve up to 70 hours. Whole watch has 110 parts that are required hand polish, individual numbered for a limited 40 pieces only.
Price, yet to be advised.

I had the first AP Royal Oak Jumbo and that was numbered as XX…Today, this is only 40 Pieces, Who is the lucky one who can afford to own One. I would not hesitate to buy one if I could have that kind of money. Men’s dream and AP Royal Oak, Watch Lovers' dream.
Besides, AP made a decision to enlarge the Royal Oak from a base line of 39mm to 41mm, to meet the trend of "tend to be Larger” So there will be more prominent outlook with the new 41mm size of a Royal Oak you buy in 2012. Definitely it can catch more admirers from distant faraway opposite the Nathan Road.
Nathan Road Snob

Hamilton Khaki Flight Timer

Hamilton is an American Brand since 1892. I used to have few Hamilton Solid Gold Watches made in the 40'. Those watches were purely mechanical watches.
This Khaki Flight timers is a high function pilot watch embedded with Swiss ETA Quartz movement. New from Hamilton, result of collaboration with the Air Zermatt helicopter rescue team in Switzerland. You can see the Air Zermatt logo engraved on the caseback.
The dial is broken up into a few negative LCD screen sections and the case has a crown along with three pushers. You can still read the time easily enough, and I like the large applied metal minute/hour markers. You'll of course see that the dial is an available in a silver or anthracite tone. Skeletonized hands make it possible to see the screens below them without too much interference.
Functions include Two digital timezones, UTC time, Alarm, Chronograph, Countdown, Flight time recorder, ISA temperature display. Perpetual Calendar. Perpetual Calendar is what the Tissot Touch does not have, Tissot has the unique winning touch feature, but there is no 24 hours, no date. A deduction of a watch feature in terms of versatility.
One of the price features is log data for recording details of up to 20 flights and a total of 99 landings. It has a rotating timing bezel on the case.
The steel case is 40mm wide, water resistant to 100 meters and has a sapphire crystal.. This is a function-oriented watch and I like that Hamilton is still keen on making a lot of these pieces.
Die hard mechanical watch lovers still prefer not to use Electronics Quartz watch in professional applications. However, some of the features and functions are only achievable by means of Electronics Quartz watch module. Unless in utmost low temperature.
Hamilton will offer the Khaki Flight Timer with at least two dial options and on a rubber or leather strap. I like the Orange Strap. There is also a metal bracelet option. Prices for the leather/rubber strap models is $1,445 for just a bit more you can get the metal bracelet model for $1,495.
So if you are a Pilot, other than the Rolex GMT Master II, $ 7,800. Breitling professional Co-pilot 143A $2,475. This Hamilton is your choice too!

HK Snob

Glashjutte Original of the 60's

In the name Glashütte Original lies the history and unique heritage of a small town
in South Eastern part of Germany In the neighbors hood of Czech Republic, a small Silver, Copper and lead, iron ore mining buried in the mountains of the Erzgebirge started from 165 years ago.
In the early part of the 19th century, the citizens of Glashütte began to look for alternatives. Saxon Court, Dresden had long nourished the nascent art
and science of keeping time with the aid of clocks and pocket watches. Dresden was the splendid city on the Elbe once known as the Florence of the North.
At the same time, the excitement of the industrial revolution had captured
the imagination of adventurous thinkers and entrepreneurs all over Europe,
and Saxony was no exception.
It was this spirit of adventurous enterprise that slowly transformed Glashütte
from a remote village in the mountains into the world-class centre of handcrafted
watches that it remains today. But don’t forget it was the Eastern Germany after the WWII, and then at that period of 1945-1990, there were not to much Fancy technology in the watch marking, but to make simple, durable low cost Watches for the People of the Eastern Germany, So these are the two pieces that I bought in 1995 in a Small town of Germany,
Note that the Movement is simple, quite sturdy and there even not have any date, size was small as that was the right size in the 70. I believe the lady one was in the year is 1968-1972, and the men’s one is an automatic with 23 Rubies that goes to 1960-1968.
They were lying down in the drawing over 15 years until today I checked for some of the straps and revealed these two watches,… These are not expensive watches, but a good example to show the life style of Eastern Germany whereby they had not too much resources to make beautiful watches as the Swiss did. But these metal watches demonstrate what a watch needs is time keeping, on top of it, accuracy and reliability is important.

HK Snob

Deep Blue BlueTech AB YSS500 Diver's Watch

This new Deep blue BlueTech AB YSS500 comes with four dial colour. Blue, Black, Orange and Yellow with limited 500 pieces each Colour.
The Blue one is my favourite, next is Orange or Yellow. It measures 46.5mmx18mm and a lug width of 26mm, big enough for a six feet man.
Water Resistance up to 5mm meters. Movement is Swiss ETA 2824-2 with 25 jewels and a custom Deep Blue Rotor. USD$999.00!
I love to get one not just because of the dial is a dynamic look appearance, but a big and Sharp blue Dial!

HK Snob

US Marine Prototype Rolex Submariner

Rolex Produced some of the rarest prototype Submariner for US Marine in 1982.
However due to whatever reason that it never turned into mass production.

It features a rather unique of locking its bi-directional timing bezel, The large detachable lug hoods lift up to allow manipulation of the bezel, lower it down to secure lock.
It has a new look as the traditional Submariner design as it extend the watch it out down from the middle of the case to meet the bracelet. It is 44mm with a lug to measurement of 58mm. The example featured here was sold at auction by Antiquorum in 2004 for USD$ 72,000! I think the current price may be already go double to USD$150,000! if your wrist is small , this may not be too fit for it.HK Snob

A Fake Rolex Submariner

This is a Rolex Submariner my friend showed me yesterday, of course I did not say anything as he said he bought it recently, He asked me how is it. I said quite beautiful.
But actually I told myself this is a Fake Rolex!
First of all, this model is White gold, and his one is steel,
The weight is not as heavy as the original one.
The finishing of the body is quite rough, It does not carry that kind of elegant gloss of the Rolex. The printing on dial is rough, the Rim is not smooth, laser Marked Rolex Logo is not clear enough.

Tsim Sha Tsui Snob

Swatch new look 2012

Swatch is using plastic as the component in the movement, though Plastic is not the first time to be used for component in a watch. Tissot low cost Auto Watch used a lot of plastic gear. The light weight component has an advantage of longer serviceability. Swatch uses colourful part inside the watch. It creates colourful rainbow like movement, this example is one of the most beautiful Combination. Thin, Colour, Watch proof, acccurate, light and comfortable to wear. This is Swatch!

Picture taken by Nokia Mini 97 at Tsuen Wan MTR station.

Tsuen Wan Snob

Can you Check your Rolex Time Keeping Accuracy when you purchase?

This is a question that most of the non-jeweler Rolex AD can offer, and most of the people do not know that there is the right for them to SELECT a better Rolex when you buy new from Rolex AD.
Well, most of the WATCH dealer like Zurich, Oriental, Wah Hing can have this service. Do to forget that you are spending some money that is good for buying a used BMW, this is your customer right to ask for the Shop to provide you a Health Check on your Rolex.
As you know you Rolex is a Certificated Swiss Chronometers, that can guarantee some kind of time accuracy per day.
Usually I will buy a Rolex with +2 second per day base on a temperature of 25 deg C,
And some time you can get one like +5 seconds a day, it is still within the specification of qualify the watch to be a Chronometer.
The reason why we have to buy a watch faster a few seconds is that after a few years say three, the lubrication oil inside the jewel bearing and the minor wear and tear inside of movement will gradually add on some friction that would slow down the watch.
So when you use your Rolex it may be becoming slow after 4 year, then it is time for you to send it to Rolex Service Centre for a cleaning..
Actually the period of time for Overhauling or cleaning depending on how you use the watch, and some of my Rolex has been using for 10 years still working in perfect time keeping.
So next time when you go to buy your Rolex, ask for the time check service, of course it is Free!
HK Snob