Thursday, March 22, 2012

New 2012 Rolex Sky-Dweller



The Rolex 2012 Collection showcases Sky-Dweller was presented at BaselWorld 2012,

The New Rolex for global travelers, with two time zones and an annual calendar. Inspired with Rolex Engineering with 14 patented designs.

A particularly ingenious patented mechanism Saros annual calendar inspired by an astronomical phenomenon differentiates between 30-day and 31-day months, just four additional gear wheels. You need just one adjustment per year on the date!

With a revolutionary annual calendar offering unparalleled robustness and reliability for such a complex watchmaking function. This annual calendar’s qualities are attributable to an ingenious mechanism named Saros, patented by Rolex. Its original design was directly inspired by the astronomical phenomenon of the same name.

Discover the sophistication and simplicity of this revolutionary timepiece and explore the Sky-Dweller's features

Ref 32695 is come with new Calibre 9001, 40 rubies, reserved with 72 hours, 42mm Oyster Perpetual

A bit surprise on how it can maintain the water proof function between the bezel and the watch itself!? What a Rolex genius patented design!



Hontesy, looking at this picture not the real watch not until I can a real watch on my hand to review. Base on what I get from Rolex Website, it seems to me it is not too easy to read the information such as the month and the local time, and the local time zone dial is offset to one side without moving indicators, that is hard to read.

The Name Sky-Dweller sounds a bit uneasy to me, Sea Dweller is good name but not Sky-Dweller. Something Likes Flyer King, Traveller Master, World Traveller, Air Master, or something like Sky-Sniper, Air-Sniper, Air Chaser, Time Traverser, Air Speeder, Time Speeder, Air Transporter, City Voyager, Air Expedition, Time Expeditionist...can be considered etc...


Knowing that Rolex does not want to have drastic changes on th dial design and they want to move it graudually to test the public acceptance. Even the name, this may be the key factor of Rolex's Success!

Calibre
9001, Manufacture Rolex
Mechanical movement with bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor on ball bearing
Precision
Officially certified Swiss chronometer (COSC)
Functions
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
24-hour display on off-centre disc
Second time zone via independent rapid-setting of the hour hand
Instantaneous annual calendar at 3 o’clock with Saros system and unrestricted bidirectional rapid-setting of the date
Month display via 12 apertures around the circumference of the dial
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
Oscillator
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring
Breguet overcoil
Large balance wheel with variable inertia
High-precision regulating via four gold Microstella nuts
Traversing balance bridge
High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers
Jeweling
40 rubies
Power reserve
Approximately 72 hours

Specifications

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
Reference (case – Bracelet): 326939 – 72419
Case
Type: Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)
Diameter: 42 mm
Material: 18 ct white gold, polished finish
Case back: Screw-down with Rolex fluting
Bezel: Fluted, bidirectional rotatable Ring Command
Winding crown: Screw-down, Twinlock double waterproof system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant synthetic sapphire
Cyclops lens (2.5 ×) over the date, double anti-reflective coating
Waterproof: 100 metres (330 feet)
Dial
Colour: Ivory, satin finish
Hour markers: Roman numeral appliques in 18 ct white gold
Hands: 18 ct white gold with phosphorescent material
Bracelet
Type: Oyster, three-piece solid links
Material: 18 ct white gold, polished centre links and satin-finished outer links with polished edges
Clasp: Folding Oysterclasp
Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
Reference (case – Bracelet): 326938 – 72418
Case
Type: Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)
Diameter: 42 mm
Material: 18 ct yellow gold, polished finish
Case back: Screw-down with Rolex fluting
Bezel: Fluted, bidirectional rotatable Ring Command
Winding crown: Screw-down, Twinlock double waterproof system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant synthetic sapphire
Cyclops lens (2.5 ×) over the date, double anti-reflective coating
Waterproof: 100 metres (330 feet)
Dial
Colour: Champagne, sunray finish
Hour markers: Arabic numeral appliques in 18 ct yellow gold
Hands: 18 ct yellow gold with phosphorescent material
Bracelet
Type: Oyster, three-piece solid links
Material: 18 ct yellow gold, polished centre links and satin-finished outer links with polished edges
Clasp: Folding Oysterclasp
Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link


Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
Reference (case – strap): 326935 – Brown alligator leather
Case
Type: Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)
Diameter: 42 mm
Material: 18 ct Everose gold, polished finish
Case back: Screw-down with Rolex fluting
Bezel: Fluted, bidirectional rotatable Ring Command
Winding crown: Screw-down, Twinlock double waterproof system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant synthetic sapphire
Cyclops lens (2.5 ×) over the date, double anti-reflective coating
Waterproof: 100 metres (330 feet)
Dial
Colour: Chocolate, sunray finish
Hour markers: Arabic numeral appliques in 18 ct pink gold
Hands: 18 ct pink gold with phosphorescent material
StrapMaterial: Brown Alligator mississippiensis leather
Clasp: Folding Oysterclasp in 18 ct Everose gold

Only Solid Gold version is available, Hong Kong Rolex AD will have stock about September, Price TBA.
HK Snob

Sunday, March 11, 2012

Rolex Ref 15238 Soild Gold Date Just



This watch was made for one discrete model with Solid Gold version, riveted Osyster solid gold bracelet, White Enamel like dial, Roman hour indicators. There is not stainless version on this model.


The one wearing one my hand is an exanple of excellent condition. I am a fan of Day Date, so Date just may becomes a bit less Poisonous to me...

But I do not mind to buy it if I had another HKD$62,000!

HK Snob

Rolex Flagship Model Day Date Ref 6611





The Day Date became Rolex's flagship. The first model (6511) lasted just over a year before it was replaced by the externally identical 6611 with caliber 1055 movement with its free sprung Micro-Stella balance and was the first to be labeled "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" on the dial. This new accuracy standard guaranteed the watch to remain within + 3.0 seconds per day. This is the official birth of the Rolex Legend model Day Date… I have been longing to see one.



Today, I can have one in my hand, it is original Ref 6611. The Rolex Day Date, the fluted bezel has a finer pitch, the hour Marks is a thick piece of wedge shaped sold gold set on the dial, there is “"Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” on the dial at the six o’clock position.


This model has been released for about two years only, there should not too many example of good condition Ref 6611. In 1959 caliber 1055 was replaced with caliber 1555 in model 1803 (18,000bph) and later In 1965 - model 1803 received caliber 1556 (19,800bph). In 1977 caliber 3055 (quick-set) was introduced in model 18038.



In 1988 caliber 3155 (double quick-set) was introduced in model 18238.
Caliber 3155 is the caliber still used today in all Day-Date models.


HK Snob

Thursday, March 8, 2012

How to Take out the Ceramic Bezel of GMT Master



First of all, question is why I have to open the GMT Master bezel?
For the perfectionist like I, I may like to clean it regularly, I may need to re-align its capillarity, or angular position. Knowing from some one saying that the ceramic bezel was fixed on to the bottom ring by means of double sided self adhesive tape!? Is that Right? A HKD$62,100 watch is using adhesive tape to fix the bezel, I still have puzzled for this unbelievable concern, well not until I open it to see the real situation is!

This has to be done either via removing the entire bezel or the ceramic bezel. Removing the ceramic bezel seems to be the easier way since the bezel construction is a little different from the normal submariner bezels. But removing the ceramic bezel does pose some challenges in removing it cleanly and safely without destroying or scratching it.

I came across website telling us using a plastic sheet as the opening tool to wedge off
Through trial and error. The piece of plastic is those mounted on shirt's collar.Insert at the gap between the bezel and the crystal, work your way around the bezel. The bezel is attached using double sided tape and therefore it is quite easy to separate it.

Any crystal alignment can be done easily after the bezel is removed. We can clean by apply gasoline to remove the double sided tape adhesive residuals and fix it properly by
new adhesive tape. People may question why use tape and I will find out more. Thanks to the Orginal Blogger mentioned this to us as I have no time to open the Watch and check. It is a good topic for further investigate. I think Rolex has well thought about it.




HK Snob

Tudor Ref. 79090




This is Tudor 79090 Submariner 40mm.
Rolex case, Rolex Crown, acrylic Crystal Black Dial and powder coated dial.
No more in production and is hard to find in good condition, it is selling about HKD$18,000-28,000 depending on condition. Don't miss it.




HK Snob

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Swatch Full Turn Night SVAZ104S




Designed for men, build in high-tech ceramics black light, surrounded the Carousel movement, with the parts to 25 ruby bearings through the sapphire crystal glass, clearly visible. The mechanical device is placed on the watch with all the components disk movement, such a design, a movement to consolidate the operation of parts in each group, with the balance wheel escapement and a perfect match to ensure that accurate when the meter is running. Gear and control system placed in the transfer tube, and to rotate twice per hour, the operation of the whole, the balance wheel and escapement, as the satellite-like, walking around the center of the watch, full of beauty. Diaphane One Full Turn Night encoding the global production of 200 limited edition.

Diaphane One Full Turn Night luxury mechanical watch making is definitely the best example for the style in the world only store a limited post-coding of individual SWATCH sale, Hong Kong has been placed two, number, respectively (N ° 80) and (N ° 81 .) Limited number engraved on the light inside the black ceramic, as well as watch the bottom of the case, and highlight the unique and noble identity.



As a Christmas Special 2010. with list Price tagged at HKD$82,000.00, butonly a few known nunits were sold in HK.


HK Snob

Sunday, March 4, 2012

Watch Trend 2012-2017

Watch has been designed with change in size, the choice of different material, thickness, the way to display time…and design on the movement, from simple manual winding movement, Automatic winding, Day and Date display, Chronometers, Repeater, Alarm , Tourbillon, 2 Dimensional Movement tourbillon, Double Tourbillon, Diamond Like Coating case, Brass, Titanium, Carbon Composite material and Ceramic Composite compound…etc.

Size from 33 mm in the 50’s, moving up to 36 and 39 mm in 1970’s then going to smaller one like 23 mm for man and gradually increasing size in recent ten years and now even a size of 55mm an be found… A thickness of 20mm and a weight of 300 grams. It is almost the size of a Small Clock for your desk top!

Well, the trend is keep going, to maintain a comparatively large size even Rolex had to announce to go for 40mm for their Major production model Date Just, and The Explorer II new release has a size of 42mm..

What we can see is that more and more people have fed up with too many fancy but non-functioned features on a watch… moreover the watch has becoming more expensive with unreasonable price… A Simple Solid gold watch is in the range of HKD$220,000. a Skeleton Tourbillon is easily HK$2,000,000. a Double Tourbillon Skeleton in PT is HKD$4,500,000.

Is that a price for a Porsche, a Lamborghini or an Aston Martin? But the watch is weighed just about 150 grams.

Each gram of substance is costing about HKD$30,000.
Where as each gram of Ferrari Substance is just HKD$1.73 for a HKD$2,600,000 Ferrari!!

When I wake up tomorrow there will have more 10,000 Millionaires in China.. Who will be surprises if you not mark up your price that Higher!? How can you suck up all the money from these rich big spender who may buy the high end watch just looking at the high end price?… Now the highest market segment of Rolls Royce is in China., No more HK, US or Saudi Arabia…

Well, what is the trend of Watch making in the coming year?
I think there are a few streams

1. More and more people will look for thinner and Simpler watch dial design. like three or even two hands manual automatic watch. This can take up 10% of the High end market. This will be supported by Piaget, IWC, JLC, and VC.

2. More and more super complicated watch made in limited number for the collectors and act as show case for demonstrate the power of the Watch Company.

3. More cheaper watch plus a lot of add on function will be made for the rest 80% of most of the watch user from Mid Low Range of Swiss, Seiko, Citizen, Timex, Casio…

4. More and more Yellow or Rose Colour Gold will be made as comparing with the White Colour gold.. as we have been seeing enough White gold or Stainless watch in the past 10 years, we feel bore!

5. More and more individual watch maker will emerge as an independent watch brand to go for Higher end markets. The make small number of watch with stunning design and moderate complexity.

6. PP will be a did hard classic watch maker with less bold change on the major design , they are slowing migrating to the younger watch buyer esp. from China. A big more sportive image will be add on the basic Series. As young Rich Chinese below 30 will not appreciate the Classic Look of PP. They go AP and VC…

7. Swatch , once was the King of the watch hit in 1989-1995, and I believe they are making a Plastic Tourbillon for giving me a surprise of What A price for what’s a real pride!?

8. More fun watch will be made in the Easter Asian new designer like HK, Korea and Japan. And they will be made as a trendy stuff for the youth for low end or give-away items.

9. Rolex will be maintain his usual way of making different casing, new gadget on case and dial design , seeking new material for make their watch more durable and more reliable, rather than going in parallel with the higher end completion with complicated watch. Rolex Will never make any Tourbillon before 2016.

19. I am still a Fan of Rolex and this trend will not change.
HK Snob

A Thought of Time

Time is a part of the measuring system used to sequence events, to compare the durations of events and the intervals between them, and to quantify rates of change such as the motions of objects. The function of watch is used for telling the time. Time is the all datum for every event to be getting started, halted ongoing, and stop in this World, but not too sure if there is another Time used in other Universe?

No matter the world most Accurate and likely the most expensive Clock at National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST).It's accurate to one second in about 3.7 billion years. Or the one you are wearing on your wrist… No matter a few thousand dollar gold watch or some two dollar cheapo you bought from the Sham Shui Po hawkers. They function the same: tell the time…
Time seems to be abstract, time moves on second by second, day by day, year by year, can only have one direction, as displayed on your watch so called Clockwise direction.


There is numerous scientist had been spent life time effort to retard the time, not to mention to reverse it. So far, there seems have no way to do anything about it. I saw Nicholas Cage movie "Next" that he could possibly see the future that it would happen two minutes later and that seems he can control the world as CIA would track him down for helping US Governement to defuse a terrorist nuclear bomb! This is in the fiction or movie but in the real life.

We can count time on our watch, every tick tac of second represents that you have been aged exactly for that amount. We have been lucky survived for that moment. And in present time of moment we should treasure it. Many Watch collector keep their expensive, limited and special with in the safe. While the power reserve indicator show “Zero” it has no power start the fly wheel. I do think it is pity, as the watch maker has been spending tedious effort to make such a great watch, but it becomes an investment article in the dark and cold safe.

If I were him, I will put it on my hand and every moment I see the seconds hand moving it tells me our life is going on, and the left our known friends, lovers are going on. What a wonderful moment and seconds we can hear this little piece of watch movement keep time accurate, never steal you a second.

Let's enjoy our life and let' pay a little bit of respect to the Time. No matter is displayed by the triple complication Patek phillippe, Paul Newman Daytona, an Audemars Piguet, Swatch, Seiko It does not matter to you, they work almost the same. As different people has their own way to appreciate time and his watch. It is important that you have to treasure it, as by tomorrow, my watch may still moving but my life won’t go on!


Treasure your time of every second with you watch, your family members, your lovers, fiancée, or mistress.
HK Snob

Saturday, March 3, 2012

Roger Dubuis Velvet



Since 1995, Roger Dubuis has earned appreciation from the Chinese big spenders, discerning Watch connoisseurs, private collectors, and Celebrity. With fine Swiss horologer achievement and Company strategy to offer every watch made for qualifying for stamping “Genève Seal”.
This is a new design to offer those sophisticated ladies a time piece on her writs at same time a piece of jewelry. But not too much as a show off of glittering of precious gems.
The way they inlay the diamonds are just for the right design need. And not to uncover the precise Movement under the case.
The Velvet Watch is employing the RD821 movement which is made of 172 components. The Whole watch is entirely developed, hand-made assembled in the Roger Dubuis Ateliers.
Exterior was a black Technical prowess of black DLC treatment solid Titanium. An audacious and unseen combination of colours, reflecting the dramatic and dark beauty of our "Incredible Diva" universe.
· This Velvet watch design is made in Titanium with DLC feature;
· 36mm in diameter.
· One round of Amethysts and Black Diamonds on the side;
· 100% In-house automatic movement;
· With Genève Quality Hall Mark and COSC Certificate.
This watch is selling at HKD$308,000.00.
PS
Diamond-like-carbon (DLC) coatings are a particular area of expertise on surface treatment for both colour and hardness. Among PVD & PaCVD coating compositions and technology, DLC coatings stand out as a particularly distinctive category. These coatings exhibit a desirable combination of a low coefficient of friction and high micro-hardness, making them extremely effective in many tribological and wear applications.
DLC coatings are formed when ionized and decomposed carbon or hydrocarbon species land on the surface of a substrate with energy typically 10-300eV. DLC films may possess exceptional mechanical (high hardness), optical (high optical band gap), electrical (high electrical resistivity), chemical (inert) and tribological (low friction and wear coefficient) properties and can be deposited at low substrate temperature (<200°).
It is a new way to apply the treatment on the surface of the metal like Stainless steel or Titanium, this will ensure the metal surface to be hard enough for durability, black as the desire colour of the watch designer, and smoothness for extra wearing comfort.
Roger Dubuis made it on Titanium has a ultra light weight for the lady to wear. It is an expensive process and the yield is low, so as the cost will be high.
AP, Hubolt, Richard Miller Panerai and Cartier has a few launched models using this DLC process on their watch.
HK Snob

Thursday, February 23, 2012

World's Most Expensive Watch Ever sold!

Sotheby's experts estimated that this watch would sell for between $3 million and $5 million, but due to intense competition, bids soared to more than $11 million in 1999. With 24 complications or functions and two faces. This 18kt yellow-gold pocket watch took four years to build and still holds the record for the most expensive watch (non jewelery watch) ever sold. It is Patek Philippe Cal. 89. Only one is known to be produced!
If Patek Philippe produces two pieces, the auction price will not that high, it may reach 3 millions only... As this is a very heavy pocket watch which you never want to wear it in your pocket!
HK Snob

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

What’s the best Rolex for investment?

Many people talks about using Watch for an investment, yes that is right if you go for certain limited production for some branded watch like Patek Philipe, Audemars Piguet, Rolex… we can check out the hot items in the watch auctions. An investment watch has certain basic requirement:
1. Limited units available
2. Beautiful design or feature.
3. Sophisticated movement
4. That Watch will not be produced as a retro version as new anymore.
5. Timing (factors like Trend, preference on colour, size, material) *
If you said buying a new Rolex and put it in safe waiting for the price to go up and earn money, that may not be practical, as they are production watch, and those are new, you may have to wait for many decades to see that watch could offset inflation to return you some dollars.
Simply as I say No Rolex should be purchased with a perceived notion of investment....
They should be worn and enjoyed! Or more precisely having said that, almost all Rolex watches will hold their value in the long haul, but will loose out in the short term.
Watches should not be bought as an investment. Buy the one you like and enjoy it. If it goes up in value that's great!
If buying with the sole reason not to loose money on a future resale then buy second hand as most of the depreciation would already have been taken.
Your best bet to buy a Pre Owned Submariner, GMT or SS Daytona. They seem to hold their value pretty good in the used market.
I bought a 1950 bubble gold 14K Rolex in 1986 at HKD$5,000 from Kiu Tai Yu. After using it for almost 8 years and then I sold to some one with HKD$18,000 … and that watch price kept going up to HKD$38,000 in 1996. but due to the trend for watch size was going BIG, that Bubble back Rolex was not able to further appreciate much after 1997.
If I were you, at age over 38. I have no hesitation to recommend you to buy a used Day Date Ref. 18038 (Rolex Flag ship model). For your daily uses,
This is one that has its own specialty, the dial is beautiful, even colour, brown orange colour that is eye-catching even from a distance, Sapphire crystal for scratch proof, watch proof is not a question for Rolex, Day date is best for man like I to remind me the important of the day and time. Perpetual Auto rotor keeps power reserve for min. 42 hours. Price, estimated to be HKD$44,000…and I am sure the price will move up with inflation.
It is not an investment item, but after 10 years, you may able to get back at least HKD$35,200. So it costs you HKD$9.6 a day to own this watch.
If you don’t like Day Date, simply go for s used Submariner, GMT Master I or II.
Talking about real investment, we have better go to buy some blue chip when Hang Seng Index goes down to 18,000 points.


Note * a very ugly colour like Mandarin Yellow or Stella (Red) in the 60's which no one wanted, and was made only a few units... now it is likely to be very rare and expensive.

HK Snob

Monday, February 20, 2012

Jaeger LeCoultre Futurematic




 

I have seen a lot of Gold plated Jaeger LeCoultre Futrurematic. This is Solid Gold just has been restored.

It is very Stylish with Art Deco design arrangement of Dial.

Red Indicator on the left is power reserve Indicator. An interesting Watch with hidden crown. However if you are easy to sweat in Summer, you had better do not wear it, as the sweat will easily goes into the watch through the gap between the crown and the case.

The Automatic winding is running by a tiny swinging hammer with two spring dampers on both end of the rotating axis. The Winding up efficency is low comparing with centrifugal rotor.

HK Snob

Britian's Most Honest Man!?

The 28-year-old Aaron Large spotted the first timepiece while jet-washing a roadside drain a week ago! Striking gold: Mr Large was cleaning a drain near Chalkwell train station in Essex when he saw a glimmer amongst the dirt. He found a Rolex Daytona, Well., the watch as in the ditch!? That would be a good ad or Sales gimmick for Rolex as it is not being spoiled by the dirty water and contamination. Will you return the Daytona to Police station when you pick up a Rolex!? He later found two more; OneFrank Muller and an Omega.. Can I say Aaron Large is Britian’s most honest Man!?
Britian Snob

Friday, February 17, 2012

The Thinner The Better: Piaget



Piaget was founded in 1874 by Georges Edouard Piaget. Piaget is widely known for its magnificent jeweled dress watches - and for its Polo line of watches which has been redesigned into various incarnations over its 25 year history. In 1956 Piaget launched the first mechanical ultra thin movement with manual winding 9P calibre. They became the masters of ultra thin movements. Later on in 1960 they manufactured another ultra thin movement the 12P which landed them in the Guinness Book of Records as the thinnest self-winding movement (2.3 mm) in the world. Piaget is also recognized though for its watch movements and parts that are often used by other watch manufacturers (particularly Cartier and other brands in the Richemont watch group)
Attached Picture shows Altiplano manual 9P (1957) and automatic 12P (1960)


The other is the world's thinnest Auto movement 12P from Piaget!HK Snob

The Thin Cult Classic Universal Gold Shadow

In the 60s, Universal has made the thinnest watch I have ever seen, remember I went to see a displayed Universal at Swiss Watch Company at Central, I stayed there for 10 minutes from side to see how thin it was. That is so thin that is not thicker than one HK dollar coin. The price was about HKD$1,300, don't forget that an Rolex Date Just Two Tone was selling at HKD$1760 in 1976, So you can tell that this watch is very expensive in the year of 1965. That was Universal Golden Shadow and White Shadow were first produced in 1965 and were the thinnest automatic watch movements at the time, with a thickness of only 2.3mm. This record was held until 1978. The Shadows were also designed by Gerald Genta who invented the Famous AP Royal and PP Nautilus and were available in 18K yellow and white gold as the Golden Shadow, and in stainless steel as the White Shadow. Both watches contained the Caliber 2-66 micro rotor movement up until the late 1960s.
These GOLDEN SHADOWS are highly sought after and very difficult to find, I would go as far to say they are considered to be a cult classic amongst collectors. Universal Geneve was founded in 1894 and today produces EXTREMELY expensive watches. in If you are seeking a slim, spectacular looking and high quality dress watch; and also want it to be modest in size-here it is!



HK Snob

Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Vintage Rado SeaHorse and the latest Rado made of Ceramos Material





Rado Seahorse is a High grade Swiss automatic with Rado's famous rotating anchor. This Swiss made watch is an automatic, and has the date at the three o'clock spot. The watch also features a sweep secondhand. I bought Rado Seahorse in 1970, I remember the sea horse was blue. It was HKD$120.00.
It was a very durable watch, I had put the watch in the top Cold storage compartment of my Refrigerator overnight and next day I put it in hot waterr to study how durable the watch could be… and it was passed. I used to play watch Tug of war by resting the watch ‘s crown on my other watch’s crown and see which watch was going to stop first, It was a common Game we played for watch in the 70’s.
The next picture is the latest Rado Ceramos material to make watch, There seems has some shadow of the 70’s Seahorse. I had found another Art Deco Design Oval shaped Rado. That is a good example of beautiful Rado!
Anyway, the Rado was one of the watch I had in the 70.
HK Snob
Ps
Ceramos® evolves from the platinum-coloured high-tech ceramic which Rado introduced in 1993. This ceramic and metal composite was designed to have the optimal properties of both components. Today Ceramos® accommodates a unique platinum steel look for use in sharp, edgy designs. It is a light material, which adjusts quickly to skin temperature, offering unrivalled comfort levels when used to make watch bracelets and cases. It is hard as up to Vickers hardness at least 1200, which is harder than Gold, Steel and Platinum. Ceramos is super resistant to scratches. Hardness of Diamond is Vickers 10,000.

Sunday, February 12, 2012

This is my first Omega Classic De Ville.

I bought this watch at one small watch shop in Kowloon City with HKD$1,080 in 1981. After 5 years, I sold it to one of my best friends KM Chan at HKD$800. He has been using this watch for many years. Omega had once produced the best watch in the 60's till 80's. You know that Omega was once more expensive than Rolex in the same category and class. But After 80's Rolex overtaken Omega in price and also in quality.
Today, whilst we had a tea with KM in the morning, I saw that watch again, he knows and every year whilst we meet, he worn that watch and showed me! But he never want to sell it back to me!

This is the first Omega I had first purchased. I can see the plating of gold is so thick that it looks 80 microns; is that Older is always better!? Note Also the Art Deco dial Design, it is beautiful, classic, simple, accurate and thin! What else you want from HKD$1,080?
HK Snob

Thursday, February 9, 2012

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

In 1952, the French "Nageuers de combat" (combat swimmers) was instituted by the French government as an elite team of tactical soldiers - the NAVY Seals of France. Captain Bob Maloubier was at the helm of this group, whose missions included underwater intelligence, sabotaging operations, and clandestine port-attacks. The team was already using tools such as compasses, depth gauges, and yes, watches, but none were specifically designed for the rugged tasks at hand. He was the original Designer for Fifty Fathoms, and he approached LIP and then the very small company of Blancpain to make this diving watch for him, that was 1954. Today there are about 20 variations of Blancpain and I used to have one A "No Radiations" Model From 1966. but I looked at the case carefully, and saw that there are very rough case profile and I suspected that was a fake,, and in fact I had not so much knowledge at that time, so I sold it to some one, Today, I fell regret as that is a rare watch, and that is beautiful. How Can I get this watch again!?
The picture shown here is the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms limited to 500 pcs Only.

Blancpain had announced that they produce mechanical watch only and never will make any quartz watch! This may be the only one swiss company that can definitely say they produce Mechanical watch only.
HK Snob

Breitling Navitimer

Breitling Navitimer is a great name that went back to 1954, The original Breitling Navigation & Time was developed as a navigator watch for Pilots, who could use the slide rule to calculate remaining distance, fuel consumption, beside the time keeping.
It can be classified as one of the most important watches for flying professions besides Rolex GMT Master and it has gone through so many years and likely four generations of Design Changes, It is one of the most durable, beautiful and presentable cult watch for air borne flyer.
HK Snob

The Picture was taken at HKIA by Nolia N97 mini Hand set.
Ps This gentleman has a complete collection of Breitling Navitimer.
http://people.timezone.com/breitling/bfaq/Reviews--Navitimer.html

Saturday, February 4, 2012

What we would buy for your beloved one in Saint Valentines’ Day?









* Courtesy of Cartier


Life is a time-series of romances a continuum of events and eipsodes that takes us through all peaks and valleys, something faster than we can feel. Time moves in haste, but one thing for sure makes its stand still:Love! Buy a watch for your wife, mistress, parents, daughters and sons... that will keep your intimate relationhsip last till that watch can move...Someone says that it is not necesary to buy anything other than a bunch of flowers.
I would rather prefer watch as whenever she looks at the watch, she might remember you.
Of course if you can afford, buy a Rolex, as its value would likely been maintaining as money tends to depreciating year after year.
For those who are still not going to marry or your budget is limited. You can consider something functional, unique and beautiful. We have found that Lancaster Italy has some beautiful creation of watch, likely not too expensive, in the range of HKD$2,000.
This Lancaster Italy Bongo men's watch is a real Italian statement watch. The sharp black dial along with the black rubber band is sure to dazzle all your friends. It is for men.
How about a gift for girl, well, Rolex Ref 179175, 178274, 179171, 179173, 179171, 178240 or if budget allows go for a Ref 179159. Needless to say a Submariner Ref 116610 LV for after-office usage. If budget is tight, a Technomarine, a Philip Stern, Longines, Movado or a Swatch!

How about a Cartier Ballon Bleu W69002Z2 Pink Gold White Gold with inlaid Diamonds for the sophisticated feminine lady? It does not matter what kind of watch, so long it is from you she will like it.
HK Snob

Sunday, January 29, 2012

History of Rolex's Flag Ship: Date Day






The Rolex Day Date across the world has become synonymous with class, taste and style. This watch remains one of the most prestigious additions a man can have to his wardrobe.

The Birth of Date Day
The 6511 the "Day Date" had a window at 12 spelling out the day at 12 and the date was shown at 3. Patented July 23. 1955 - officially Released in 1956 after Rolex had been enjoying quite a barren spell in the sale of its complicated timepieces it soon began to revive fortune..

President Bracelet
An additional day and date discs and a screw down back it was a very large and thick watch which gave it presence on the wrist. Due to the complexity of the watch, with its automatic movement,. Introduced as a niche model it soon gained the popularity it deserved and after the introduction of the concealed clasp (concealed clasp was offer as $75 option in 1969) it was known as the "President".

Flag Ship Model
The Day Date became Rolex's flagship. The first model (6511) lasted just over a year before it was replaced by the externally identical 6611 with caliber 1055 movement with its free sprung Micro-Stella balance and was the first to be labeled "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" on the dial. This new accuracy standard guaranteed the watch to remain within + 3.0 seconds per day.
Date Day Caliber
In 1959 caliber 1055 was replaced with caliber 1555 in model 1803 (18,000bph) and later In 1965 - model 1803 received caliber 1556 (19,800bph).
In 1977 caliber 3055 (quick-set) was introduced in model 18038.
In 1988 caliber 3155 (double quick-set) was introduced in model 18238.
Caliber 3155 is the caliber still used today in all Day-Date models.


President Watch
The Day Date earned the nickname the "President" when Rolex reportedly gave one to the then President of the United States Dwight Eisenhower. Some sources say that President Eisenhower was actually given a Date Just with the presidential bracelet. But it is a fact that several other US presidents are known to wear Day-Date (Roosevelt, Kennedy, Johnson, Nixon, Ford, Reagan, but seems Clinton, Bush and Obama does not wear Rolex Date Day, that may indicate that the recent US President has lost their glory on the wrist than in the past! (Clinton had a Roger Dubuis Muchmore, George Bush Worn a Cheap Electronics Digital watch and Obama has a few including a Tag Huer.)


Shape of the Date Day
These early models appeared rather bulky. In their never ending quest to modernize the basic configuration of the Day Date, Rolex have changed from the bulbous bubbleback look of the early models to the slender shape employed today.
With only a few mild case design changes over the year the first modification to the Day Date was the addition of the hack feature in about 1972. This allowed the second hand to be stopped dead if you wanted to set the time via a preset accurate source.


Material for Date Day
The Day Date was available in white gold, yellow gold, pink gold and platinum although in early 70's the pink gold watch was fazed out. If you had a Date Day in stainless steel, that is a prototype and that can be a great treasure in Auction.

Quick Set
The "Quick set" feature (caliber 3055) solved one of the watches biggest problems. Introduced in the late 1970's Quick set was introduced to all Rolex models by 1983. Instead of turning the crown round and round to change the day the wearer could just pull the button out half way and a few turns at most and the correct date was displayed.

Sapphire Crystal
The introduction of the quick set feature also coincided with other developments for the Day Date. The inclusion of the sapphire crystal not only gave the watch a sleeker look but also added to the durability of the watch. Introduced in 1977, the sapphire crystal fitted tighter than the plastic glass employed before and rendered the watch glass scratch proof near enough. The early Day Date models were waterproof to 165 feet (50 meters) while the current model is safe at depths of up to 100 meters. At the same time the current model is much slimmer.

Double Quick Set
Introduced in 1988/89 was the "Double Quick Set" watch with caliber 3155. This was model 18238 and it made the setting of the Day and Date even easier as they could both be done on the button. Rolex has also increasingly expanded their "Crown Collection" to include all types of precious stones by now although they were available with diamonds on the bezel from their introduction.


Pink Gold Date Day
From the end of 2000 the Day Date has been available in pink gold again. The watch has also been introduced with slightly redesigned case with polished lugs, smooth bezel is now domed, a domed sapphire crystal, solid center links on now heavier bracelet and can also come on an oyster bracelet to bring it in line with many of their other models.
Sham Shui Po Snob

Friday, January 27, 2012

2012, Audemars Piguet Celebrates Royal Oak's 40th Anniversary

It has been 40 yeas after the likely one of most beautiful watch designs was invented by Gerald Genta in 1972, with continuously applause of such beautiful Watch by watch lovers all over the World, a new Memorial Royal Oak design is created in 2012.
Since the timeless 2121 movement was introduced in its Royal Oak case in 1972, with movement thickness of 3.05mm, one of the World’s thinnest mechanical Automatic movement, it provides the Hour, Minutes and Second, Date Display function. In 2012, AP introduces a new Tourbillon ultra thin Skeleton masterpiece. The movement is still assembled with meticulous procedure as AP did 40 years ago. The Skeleton Watch case installed the State-of-The-Art tourbillon module, recalled the World First Tourbillon Automatic AP which shocked the World in 1986.
The new movement is Cal. 2924 is new with tourbillon assembly placed in a yet delicate but super tough Platinum dark grey case of 41mm with mere 4.46mm thick. The Power drum is Yellow gold which has a drastic Colour contrast with the case. Highly appreciatible! The Time display is on the front and Power reserve indicator on the back is the design layout.
Frequency is 21,600 CPS (3 Hertz) with power reserve up to 70 hours. Whole watch has 110 parts that are required hand polish, individual numbered for a limited 40 pieces only.
Price, yet to be advised.



I had the first AP Royal Oak Jumbo and that was numbered as XX…Today, this is only 40 Pieces, Who is the lucky one who can afford to own One. I would not hesitate to buy one if I could have that kind of money. Men’s dream and AP Royal Oak, Watch Lovers' dream.
Besides, AP made a decision to enlarge the Royal Oak from a base line of 39mm to 41mm, to meet the trend of "tend to be Larger” So there will be more prominent outlook with the new 41mm size of a Royal Oak you buy in 2012. Definitely it can catch more admirers from distant faraway opposite the Nathan Road.
Nathan Road Snob

Thursday, January 26, 2012

Hamilton Khaki Flight Timer




Hamilton is an American Brand since 1892. I used to have few Hamilton Solid Gold Watches made in the 40'. Those watches were purely mechanical watches.
This Khaki Flight timers is a high function pilot watch embedded with Swiss ETA Quartz movement. New from Hamilton, result of collaboration with the Air Zermatt helicopter rescue team in Switzerland. You can see the Air Zermatt logo engraved on the caseback.
The dial is broken up into a few negative LCD screen sections and the case has a crown along with three pushers. You can still read the time easily enough, and I like the large applied metal minute/hour markers. You'll of course see that the dial is an available in a silver or anthracite tone. Skeletonized hands make it possible to see the screens below them without too much interference.
Functions include Two digital timezones, UTC time, Alarm, Chronograph, Countdown, Flight time recorder, ISA temperature display. Perpetual Calendar. Perpetual Calendar is what the Tissot Touch does not have, Tissot has the unique winning touch feature, but there is no 24 hours, no date. A deduction of a watch feature in terms of versatility.
One of the price features is log data for recording details of up to 20 flights and a total of 99 landings. It has a rotating timing bezel on the case.
The steel case is 40mm wide, water resistant to 100 meters and has a sapphire crystal.. This is a function-oriented watch and I like that Hamilton is still keen on making a lot of these pieces.
Die hard mechanical watch lovers still prefer not to use Electronics Quartz watch in professional applications. However, some of the features and functions are only achievable by means of Electronics Quartz watch module. Unless in utmost low temperature.
Hamilton will offer the Khaki Flight Timer with at least two dial options and on a rubber or leather strap. I like the Orange Strap. There is also a metal bracelet option. Prices for the leather/rubber strap models is $1,445 for just a bit more you can get the metal bracelet model for $1,495.
So if you are a Pilot, other than the Rolex GMT Master II, $ 7,800. Breitling professional Co-pilot 143A $2,475. This Hamilton is your choice too!



HK Snob

Glashjutte Original of the 60's











In the name Glashütte Original lies the history and unique heritage of a small town
in South Eastern part of Germany In the neighbors hood of Czech Republic, a small Silver, Copper and lead, iron ore mining buried in the mountains of the Erzgebirge started from 165 years ago.
In the early part of the 19th century, the citizens of Glashütte began to look for alternatives. Saxon Court, Dresden had long nourished the nascent art
and science of keeping time with the aid of clocks and pocket watches. Dresden was the splendid city on the Elbe once known as the Florence of the North.
At the same time, the excitement of the industrial revolution had captured
the imagination of adventurous thinkers and entrepreneurs all over Europe,
and Saxony was no exception.
It was this spirit of adventurous enterprise that slowly transformed Glashütte
from a remote village in the mountains into the world-class centre of handcrafted
watches that it remains today. But don’t forget it was the Eastern Germany after the WWII, and then at that period of 1945-1990, there were not to much Fancy technology in the watch marking, but to make simple, durable low cost Watches for the People of the Eastern Germany, So these are the two pieces that I bought in 1995 in a Small town of Germany,
Note that the Movement is simple, quite sturdy and there even not have any date, size was small as that was the right size in the 70. I believe the lady one was in the year is 1968-1972, and the men’s one is an automatic with 23 Rubies that goes to 1960-1968.
They were lying down in the drawing over 15 years until today I checked for some of the straps and revealed these two watches,… These are not expensive watches, but a good example to show the life style of Eastern Germany whereby they had not too much resources to make beautiful watches as the Swiss did. But these metal watches demonstrate what a watch needs is time keeping, on top of it, accuracy and reliability is important.


HK Snob

Saturday, January 21, 2012

Deep Blue BlueTech AB YSS500 Diver's Watch

This new Deep blue BlueTech AB YSS500 comes with four dial colour. Blue, Black, Orange and Yellow with limited 500 pieces each Colour.
The Blue one is my favourite, next is Orange or Yellow. It measures 46.5mmx18mm and a lug width of 26mm, big enough for a six feet man.
Water Resistance up to 5mm meters. Movement is Swiss ETA 2824-2 with 25 jewels and a custom Deep Blue Rotor. USD$999.00!
I love to get one not just because of the dial is a dynamic look appearance, but a big and Sharp blue Dial!


HK Snob

US Marine Prototype Rolex Submariner

Rolex Produced some of the rarest prototype Submariner for US Marine in 1982.
However due to whatever reason that it never turned into mass production.

It features a rather unique of locking its bi-directional timing bezel, The large detachable lug hoods lift up to allow manipulation of the bezel, lower it down to secure lock.
It has a new look as the traditional Submariner design as it extend the watch it out down from the middle of the case to meet the bracelet. It is 44mm with a lug to measurement of 58mm. The example featured here was sold at auction by Antiquorum in 2004 for USD$ 72,000! I think the current price may be already go double to USD$150,000! if your wrist is small , this may not be too fit for it.HK Snob

Sunday, January 15, 2012

A Fake Rolex Submariner




This is a Rolex Submariner my friend showed me yesterday, of course I did not say anything as he said he bought it recently, He asked me how is it. I said quite beautiful.
But actually I told myself this is a Fake Rolex!
First of all, this model is White gold, and his one is steel,
The weight is not as heavy as the original one.
The finishing of the body is quite rough, It does not carry that kind of elegant gloss of the Rolex. The printing on dial is rough, the Rim is not smooth, laser Marked Rolex Logo is not clear enough.

Tsim Sha Tsui Snob

Swatch new look 2012

Swatch is using plastic as the component in the movement, though Plastic is not the first time to be used for component in a watch. Tissot low cost Auto Watch used a lot of plastic gear. The light weight component has an advantage of longer serviceability. Swatch uses colourful part inside the watch. It creates colourful rainbow like movement, this example is one of the most beautiful Combination. Thin, Colour, Watch proof, acccurate, light and comfortable to wear. This is Swatch!

Picture taken by Nokia Mini 97 at Tsuen Wan MTR station.

Tsuen Wan Snob

Saturday, January 14, 2012

Can you Check your Rolex Time Keeping Accuracy when you purchase?

This is a question that most of the non-jeweler Rolex AD can offer, and most of the people do not know that there is the right for them to SELECT a better Rolex when you buy new from Rolex AD.
Well, most of the WATCH dealer like Zurich, Oriental, Wah Hing can have this service. Do to forget that you are spending some money that is good for buying a used BMW, this is your customer right to ask for the Shop to provide you a Health Check on your Rolex.
As you know you Rolex is a Certificated Swiss Chronometers, that can guarantee some kind of time accuracy per day.
Usually I will buy a Rolex with +2 second per day base on a temperature of 25 deg C,
And some time you can get one like +5 seconds a day, it is still within the specification of qualify the watch to be a Chronometer.
The reason why we have to buy a watch faster a few seconds is that after a few years say three, the lubrication oil inside the jewel bearing and the minor wear and tear inside of movement will gradually add on some friction that would slow down the watch.
So when you use your Rolex it may be becoming slow after 4 year, then it is time for you to send it to Rolex Service Centre for a cleaning..
Actually the period of time for Overhauling or cleaning depending on how you use the watch, and some of my Rolex has been using for 10 years still working in perfect time keeping.
So next time when you go to buy your Rolex, ask for the time check service, of course it is Free!
HK Snob

What Rolex I should buy as an Investment item?!

If you ask me what is the best Investment Rolex we should buy now. From what I have learnt from these 30 years playing Rolex, I have firm answer is Daytona if you ask me what is the best investment Rolex as generally.
Thought its entry price is the high for Average Rolex Selling price. But that is not the most expensive series of Rolex.
Many people ask what is the best first Rolex he should consider, it is also having no definitely reply as all depends on what you wants.
For fun, What He-has-that-I-should-Have!? For Investment!? Just For use!? For Stylish fashion watch!? For his Function? Just because of Rolex?
If you are professional diver, golfer, mountaineer, I am sure that you may consider the Submariner or Explorer II. If you want to buy one just for going work, likely a Rolex Turn-O-graph is best, as most of the people would likely choose Date Just as it is so far the most popular model from Rolex, accounts for 60% of the total Sales.
If you area student, OL, I believe I would like to go for Submariner or Explorer II
Women would like to go for Explorer.
If you are borne with Silver sterling 925 spoon, well, it is out of the question, you can buy all available Rolex models and change every day, we need not to be discussed here.
If you are the CEO, CFO, COO I think a Rolex Daytona, or Day Date would be one of the choice.
So How about Daytona? well, it is hard to say as for pure function consideration, that is not too persuasive as it has no date, you know some time a frequent traveling , when you wake up in the Hotel have your experience that “ hey, what is the Day to day? That is one of the reason why I choose Day Date, or a perpetual calendar when I travelling. As it never fails to provide me the most importunate data in the morning, time for next meeting, Today is what Date!?
If you are an collector, or investor, well, that is not q question, you may go for Daytona as it is really the Icon of Rolex, the most complicated watch from Rolex, Sorry please do not compare with the triple or Grand complication watch from VC, PP or AP. That is different animals.
As from most of the previous Auctions, Daytona and Comex Submariner seems never turn out to be the Dutch Auction. So if I were asked what is the best Rolex Investment item, that is Daytona!
As what the Rolex Bible said, "Rolex Daytona" means a lot of things: it is the most desirable chronograph, it is a tool to measure time, it is a fashion object, it is a collector's dream and it is a safe investment!
There are many Daytona models whose value increases year after year. Here you can see some examples:
-Daytona Ref. 16520 in stainless steel
CATALOGUE PRICE: In1994: € 3.047,10
CURRENT VALUE: € 10.000/12.000
-Daytona Ref. 16520 in stainless steel, black dial turning into brown
CATALOGUE PRICE: In 1994: € 3.047,10
CURRENT VALUE: € 18.000/22.000
-Daytona Ref. 6239 in stainless steel
CATALOGUE PRICE: In 1966/67: € 64,04
CURRENT VALUE: € 22.000/24.000
-Daytona Ref. 6239 in stainless steel with Paul Newman dial
CATALOGUE PRICE:In 1969/70: € 67,14
CURRENT VALUE: € 65.000/70.000
-Daytona Ref. 6239 in gold 18k
CATALOGUE PRICE: In 1966/67: € 163,71
CURRENT VALUE: € 60.000/65.000
-Daytona Ref. 6239 in gold 18k with Paul Newman dial
CATALOGUE PRICE: In 1969/70: € 163,71
CURRENT VALUE: € 100.000/110.000
-Daytona Ref. 6241 in stainless steel
CATALOGUE PRICE In 1966/67: € 64,04
CURRENT VALUE: € 24.000/26.000
Daytona Ref. 6241 in gold 18k
CATALOGUE PRICE: In 1966/67: € 163,71
-CURRENT VALUE: € 70.000/75.0000
Daytona Ref. 6241 in stainless steel with Paul Newman dial
CATALOGUE PRICE: In 1969/70: € 67,14
CURRENT VALUE: € 65.000/70.000
-Daytona Ref. 6241 in gold 18k with Paul Newman dial
CATALOGUE PRICE: In 1969/70: € 163,71
CURRENT VALUE: € 100.000/110.000
-Daytona Ref. 6263 in stainless steel
CATALOGUE PRICE: In 1971/72: € 78,50
CURRENT VALUE: € 25.000/27.000
-Daytona Ref. 6265 in stainless steel
CATALOGUE PRICE: In 1971/72: € 78,50
CURRENT VALUE: € 25.000/27.000
-Daytona Ref. 6265 in gold 18k
CATALOGUE PRICE: Ini 1971/72: € 241,19
CURRENT VALUE: € 55.000/60.000
Furthermore, if the color of a Daytona's dial turn into another color, the watch will be even more valuable.
An example: the reference 6263 in stainless steel with Paul Newman dial is worth around € 70'000; but the same watch with the dial turning into brown, was sold by Sothebys on 2011, November 14th for CHF 464’500.
Reference: Rolex Daytona Story: the new book of Guido Mondani Editore.
Recommend to go for this Book as it contains numerous stories and picture of Daytona.
Image appears courtesy of Jake's Rolex blog
HK Snob

Sunday, January 8, 2012

Fossil



This is just a watch electronic movement with Date Day, time., quite a Functionable watch, with a sharp Diamond Like Bezel, strap that was made to look like mother of pearl.

Super light weight for young women. I bought it brand new at one shop at the junction between TST MTR Exit and I-square. The Sales Ken had a nice chat with me, he is a serious WATCH collctor for Omega, he is collection Omega Schummerger: he has Blue, Yellow, Red...etc

Price of Fossil was HKD$1,000, less 15%. Great deal for my little Daughter for going School.

Tsim Sha Tsui Snob