The market has gone insane about Patek Philippe’s Nautilus, and the already high prices of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak will skyrocket in a matter of a matter of two years even amidst of COVID-19
The “Holy Trinity” of horology is composed of Patek,
Audemars and Vacheron Constantin. What’s VC answer to its mainstream cousins?
During the “Japan quartz crisis”, Audemars Piguet introduced
a premium stainless steel watch, creating the first modern luxury sport watch, it
created the idea of paying for a luxury item of a steel watch, not necessarily
for the intrinsic value of the object.
Noticed popularity that AP was gaining with its new Royal
Oak, Patek Philippe seeked the same designer, Gerald Genta, to create Patek’s Nautilus.
What was Vacheron Constantin doing, being the oldest watch
maker in current production?
Vacheron Constantin followed Patek, decided to introduce a
modern sports watch. They hired a young designer named Jorg Hysek and requested
him to create a watch in line with the Royal Oak and the Nautilus.
In 1977, the Vacheron Constantin 222 was born. 222 is the
anniversary of the birth of the oldest Maison in Switzerland in 1977.
The beautiful Hysek’s design incorporates all the esthetic
details that were popular in the 70s such as sharp angles, integrated bracelet
and a distinctive bezel. The caliber inside was the thin VC1120 the same
movement was being used in the Royal Oak and Nautilus, based on a Jaeger
LeCoulte design.
It was produced in much smaller quantities that its cousins,
however, it was available in a wide range of materials and sizes, from
stainless steel to gold, from 25 to 37 mm. A square version was available too.
After some short experiments with the “333” and the
“Phidias", two very 90s looking watches that allowed Vacheron to
experiment some innovations, the brand was ready to unveil its watch for the
new millennium.
The Overseas
Designed by Vincent Kaufmann and Dino Modolo in 1996, the
“Gen. 1 Overseas” was released and immediately crowned as the heir of the 222.
The nautical theme, which was at the base of the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, is
now fully embodied.
Very discreet at 37 mm, Model 42042 with iconic bezel is
intended to remind the Maltese cross, VC’s logo. The overall look of the
Overseas immediately conquered the heart of many watch enthusiasts, looking to
acquire a true sports watch, paired with the elegance and artisanal craftsmanship
typically from Vacheron Constantin. This was immediately recognized to be one
of the most beautiful and refined sports watches available.
The Overseas Gen. 1 was redesigned in 2004, to create the “Gen. 2”, with the intent of creating a much sturdy watch, capable to withstand every adventure.
The case was bulked up to a larger 42 mm as in the hype for
bigger case and a new, less delicate, bracelet was introduced. This bracelet
reminding of a half Maltese cross, is now an icon of the Overseas.
In 2016, introducing the “Gen. 3”. The general design was
modernized with softer lines: the eight notches of the bezel were reduced to
six, the hands were slimmed down and the solid case back was switched in favor
of a sapphire case back. This allows the owner to admire the magnificent
movement, powered by a solid 22Kt gold engraved rotor.
A system of quick interchangeable straps allows to switch between
a stainless steel bracelet, a leather strap and a rubber strap without the need
for tools, providing incredible versatility for the owner.
The wide variety of complications, from chronographs to
perpetual calendars, is masterfully executed, creating one of the most refined
and elegant sport watches ever.
The Overseas is ready to hit?
For over the last ten years, the Vacheron Constantin
Overseas was overshadowed by it more mainstream cousins, the Royal Oak and the
Nautilus. While the Reissue 222 in 2022 has now reached a cult-like status,
being rightfully crowned as a 80s icon, the Overseas is just beginning its
rise.
In 2019 Oversea Gen. 1 automatic watch blue dial was as
little as HK$80,000, now we can see Chrono24 is selling as high as HK$240,000.
That is 3X higher in 3 years.
In my humble opinion. The top tier quality of the
masterpiece with so many unique iconic feature on one single watch. The Overseas
is the watch gaining momentum. No doubts.
HK Snob
Picture top down
1st picture :VC ad on 222 in the 70s
2nd and 4th Picture : VC 222 with special gold inlay with diamond.
6th and 7th picture: VC Overseas Gen. 1 in blue Ref 42042 37mm.