Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour recently spoke with the Swiss newspaper NZZ ahead of the Watches and Wonders industry trade show in Geneva, which he co-founded and serves as president. When asked about the current state of the industry, Dufour acknowledged that 2024 would be a "challenging" year for watch
manufacturers.
Dufour cited several factors contributing to this challenge, including increased material prices, such as the cost of gold. "Rolex produces everything here at Swiss costs. The Swiss franc is a challenge," he noted. "The cost of raw materials has also risen massively. A kilo of gold was 18,000 francs, now it is 66,000 francs in Switzerland.
" Dufour also mentioned that rising interest rates and the geopolitical situation are affecting consumer sentiment and spending. He emphasized, "I don't like it when people compare watches to stocks. It sends the wrong message and is dangerous. We make products, not investments."
Bob's Recommendation, coincidentally, a recent article from Bob's Watches, a reputable source with over two decades of experience in the luxury watch industry, covered this topic. The Bob's Watches Editorial Team stands at the forefront of watch expertise and insight. As they are not based in Hong Kong, their perspective on the best models for the local market could be particularly interesting.
Submariner
Models to Invest in:
Ref. 116610LN, Ref. 16610, Ref. 14060, and Ref. 16613 are suggested as potential investment pieces. The newer models starting with Ref 12XXXX are 1mm larger, and the Ref. 16610, with its T25 dial, may offer better value and the potential for a more beautiful patina compared to the Ref. 116610. The Ref. 14060 no-date model is also a consideration, though the Ref. 16613 two-tone Submariner may be less popular in Hong Kong, as steel tool watches are currently more sought after by influential individuals.
Oyster Perpetual
Models to Invest in:
Ref. 124300, Tiffany Blue and Green models are considered good collectibles, but their current prices, often exceeding HK$130,000, are quite high. However, the 39mm Oyster Perpetual models are expected to hold their value well in the future due to their limited production.
Explorer Models to Invest in:
While Bob's Watches recommends Ref. 14270, Ref. 214270, Ref. 16570, and Ref. 216570, I have a slightly different perspective. I believe the Ref. 16550 "Cream Rail" dial Explorer II and the Ref. 16570 white dial are noteworthy options, as the Ref.16550 can be quite expensive at around HK$240,000 for a well-preserved example, while the Ref. 16570 remains more affordable.
GMT-Master
Models to Invest in:
I agree with Bob's assessment that the vintage Ref. 16750 GMT-Master offers a similar look and feel to the more expensive Ref. 1675, often at a significantly lower price point. Additionally, the Ref. 16760 "COKE" with its black and red bezel, also known as the "Fat Lady," may be worth monitoring, as its limited production run of just a few years could make it a desirable option if Rolex reintroduces a retro model in 2024.
Date Just
Models to Invest in:
While the Date Just is an iconic Rolex model, particularly popular in the 70s to 90s, I personally favor the Ref. 1601 with its pie-pan dial and acrylic crystal over the later Ref. 16013, Ref. 16233, and Ref. 116233 models.
Day-Date
President Models to Invest in:
The Rolex Day-Date, often referred to as the "President's Watch," is the brand's flagship line and a highly sought-after model. Gold Rolex watches have recently gained relative value on the secondary market, and the Ref. 1803 is a top choice, particularly those with unique dial variations, such as the "Stellar" dial or precious stone accents. An example of a Ref. 1803 in
white gold with a "Tiffany Blue" Stellar dial could potentially fetch around
HK$500,000 on the market.
Recommended Rolex Models to Invest In:
Date Models:
Ref. 1503 Ref. 1507 Ref. 15037 Ref. 15238
I don't have a strong interest in Rolex Date models.
Sea-Dweller Models:
Ref. 1665, especially the rare "Double Red" variant, which is considered the best Sea-Dweller model, though now very expensive Ref. 16660 Ref. 16600 Ref. 116600
Air-King Models:
Ref. 5500 Ref.
14010 Ref. 114200 Ref. 114234 I don't collect Air-King watches as it is the most basic Rolex sport model.
Ladies Rolex Models:
Ref. 69173 Ref. 69138 Ref. 169622
I don't collect ladies' Rolex watches.
The Most Important Rolex Model:
The Daytona My Preferred Daytona Models:
Ref. 116508 "Green John Mayer" in yellow gold, which I believe is one of the best investment pieces, having risen to over HK$1 million in 2022 and currently available around HK$600,000, a price I expect will increase rapidly
Ref. 16528 (with either black or white dial) powered by the Zenith movement
Ref. 16520 "A" or "U" series with a patinated dial
Ref.116520 with a creamy dial (found only on "P, K, Y" series models)
While the
iconic Paul Newman Daytona (Ref. 6241) is the "King of Daytonas", it is more of
a collector's item than a daily wearer.
The models I've recommended here all
feature sapphire crystals and can be comfortably worn every day.
You may ask how about Ice Blue Platinum, well if you have extra money and you don't mind the 286 gram of weight. Go for it.
In summary, my Rolex preference ranking is:
Daytona, Day-Date GMT Submariner Deep Sea Sea-Dweller Explorer Date-Just Oyster Perpetual, 1908/Cellini Yacht-Master Sky-Dweller Air-King Date Ladies' Date-Just
HK Snob
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