Sunday, May 1, 2011

Is Tourbillon always more Accurate than a regular Watch?





A discussion with some of the Roger Dubuis sales executives at Pacific Place Today about the basic theory of the Tourbillion… whereas some of us many not know.

As per the basic, if you know all about tourbillon watches then none of this should be surprising or new to you. If you don't, you might have a couple of outstanding questions as to what a tourbillon is, why prestigious watch makers say you should want one, and why they are so expensive. The tourbillon has been around for a long time and only started becoming popular in 1990’s. Nowadays, an entry fee for a Swiss branded Tourbillion is HKD$400,000.00.


Tourbillon was patented by watch making Master Abraham Louis Breguet as I mentioned in last post. That patent has long since expired. Tourbillon is French for "whirlwind." This is because the mechanism literally spins on itself. Breguet's ideas was essentially to house a clock within a clock.
If you have a balance wheel that rotates, rotating on itself. If you understand the concept of a balance wheel, you know that it does not just turn endlessly in one direction. Rather, it moves in a back and forth manner, like a revolving pendulum. This is often referred to as balance wheel oscillation. In fact, a balance wheel is a pendulum, and the consistency of its back and forth rotations are the basis for mechanical watch movement accuracy. Of course, if the frequency is higher, likely by right, it would be more accurate. That is why Grand Seiko has a Hi Beat of 36,000 cycles per hour.


A tourbillon is a in fact a balance wheel that itself rotates, but the balance wheel rotates in one direction (not oscillation), and it typically make full rotation every 60 seconds, but some design rotates every 30 seconds. For this reason, the tourbillon is often used at the seconds counter when it is used in a watch. A convenient way of putting in a seconds counter.


The main theory behind how a tourbillon is supposed to work, is that the balance wheel rotates to all positions in purpose of off setting the effect gravity might have on it being stuck in one position consistently. So if the balance wheel is constantly moving, then minor deviations here and there will be canceled out. But that is purely theory, as our hands are moving in all direction, the watch is not placed in juts one position., the cancellation effect is multi-degree-variation-complex. There is no fixed rate of gravity cancellation in each of the gesture position.


Most watch manufacturer actually agree that even if the tourbillon is able to perfectly cancelling out rate affecting effects of gravity on a balance wheel, this is not the key to ensuring accuracy.
As such, tourbillon watches are far from the most accurate watches around.


There are different types of tourbillons. You may hear of traditional tourbillons of one axis, Roger Dubuis’ Double Flying Tourbillons and some other flying tourbillons, along with various terms to refer to multi-axis tourbillons. Traditional tourbillons use what is called a bridge that is part of the mechanism that holds it in place. This is literally the metal piece over the tourbillon, around which is free viewing of the tourbillon in operation.


A flying tourbillon is a special type of construction purely for aesthetic purposes that removes the bridge for "unobstructed view" of the tourbillon operating in its natural environment. Here there is no bridge, but rather the tourbillon is connected to the movement from underneath. A flying tourbillon is entirely a complicated cosmetic touch.


 A tourbillon is placed in what is called a "cage." Like a gyro compass on the merchant vessel. The German C Plath Gyro was a ball floating inside a cage filled with electrically conductive liquid. The Gyro will rotate at high speed of over 10,000 r.p.m. That magnetic biased gyro will point to one pint in the universe. That was being employed as a Compass on the ship after magnetic biasing it.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Milesime Double Flying Tourbillon Skeleton tilized the concept of the rear axial shaft of the automobile, when we turns the inner tire will rotate less and the outer more.. The Twin Tourbillon will be housed on a centre gear and that minor difference in speed of rotation of the right and the left will be offsetting the centre wheel in speed. That was the theory I got from the sales of Roger Dubuis. Well This Twin Tourbillon costs over HKD$2M


No matter what type of tourbillon used, the purpose is the same, to counteract the effects of gravity that may alter the accuracy and reliability of a balance wheel's oscillations.


Breguet's initial theory was that pocket watches, which are usually carried in almost vertical position, suffered from accuracy deviations due to the effect of gravity on the ever moving balance wheel. There are researches that have shown that Breguet's theories on tourbillon’s improvement are neglectible or even not effective at all on accuracy.
This carries a result that all effort in making and implementing a tourbillon movement does almost nothing to increase accuracy. Instead, a well constructed traditional watch that is finely tuned will beat out a tourbillon based watch anytime in terms of accuracy.


I, like most of watch collectors might admit that when we first learned about tourbillon watches, we were under an impression that they must be the most accurate mechanical watches out there, beating out any kind of chronometers. Now I know this is not correct, moreover, I think that they are simply not even very accurate at all.


The migration of the tourbillon from pocket watches to wrist watches was instigated by a bunches of the most expensive, oldest and complex watch manufacturers purely for "I can make one" prestige.


Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Blancpain, among others headed this movement. The first tourbillon-based watches were interesting, but lacked much of what people needed in a watch. Like the AP introduced in 1985, it is delicate, semi auto-wound of low efficiency, and often not very easy to read.


20 years later, automatic tourbillon movements arrived along with a number of aesthetic and functional variations, but of course the nature of the movement provided that it would always be delicate.


As such tourbillons will always remain a piece of art and miracle for curiosity, rather than watch improving technological innovations.


There are really only two reasons for a tourbillon based watch, and neither of them have anything to do with increased accuracy or reliability. 


A tourbillon is interesting and excited to look at. It is always in motion and attracts attention and really makes the watch seem more alive beside tick-taks,. This is especially true with the multi-axis tourbillon movements with their constant gyration. The visual splendor is there, but arguably not worth the incredible premium. Moreover it brings us such tourbillon watch is pure showiness and prestige.
Yes, the entry fee to the tourbillon club, at least for a decent quality one is so high, while there many tourbillon options out there, the average price for them is between HK$400,000 and HKD$1,000,000. You can get a good quality certified chronometer watch for about HKD$34,000. There are also cheap no-name watches that call themselves tourbillon watches, but really are not… The China Seagull makes Tourbillon that is real Tourbillon and carries a much affordable price tag that would not burn holes in your pocket. But it seems not the main sales items for customers in the Windows of King Fook Jeweler.


Why? You had rather pay another HKD$300,000 for branded AP, PP, VC or JLC?
Another interesting question why Rolex Does not come with Tourbillon!? Well, most of Rolex model are Qualified for COSC watch certificate, before they are attached with the read Seal of “ Superlative Chronometers” Rolex can make Tourbillon, but they might have problem to carry this watch equipped with the Tourbillon for COSC qualification, I mean that Tourbillon may be found harder to pass the stringent Time checking requirement for 15 days, 5 position and three temperature.


So next time… do not laugh at Rolex.. Oh ,, you do not make Tourbillon. Rolex has the reason…
Attached is a HKD$2M 
 Roger Dubuis Double Flying Tourbillon Paper Weight! But that is not for sale…

PS Roger Dubuis Excalibur Millesime Double Flying Tourbillon Skeleton is so far the most eye catching and beauftiful Watch I have seen. 


HK Snob

Saturday, April 30, 2011

Rolex DD 1803 Pink Gold

The second one on the right is a rare fine watch of Rolex, Pink Gold, with white dial, perfect outlook dial and casing is not heavily being used. This watch has been over 35 years old, but condition is very good. I may like to enroll it as on my collection of Day Date.

Friend of mine has just found one Water Melon Red Dia Ref.1803. That is an exceptional rare Rolex I have never have a chance to see in the past thirty years.

Wish I could have a chance to see it!

HK Snob

Zenith Chronometer

This is a rare, A Zenith Chronometer, as it is the same Zenith movement El Primero as Rolex Daytonas before 2002. Well, There is no screw type Scrowns for start stop timming, the overall size and profile is similar as Rolex Daytona. The gold strap is even heavier than Daytona's.

The Name makes the difference as price of this precision time piece is less than that of Rolex Daytona. That is the Market driver world... What can we say?

HK Snob

Friday, April 29, 2011

Breguet, a beautiful time piece



The founder, A.-L. Breguet (1747-1823), set the standard by which all fine watch making has since been judged. His career started with a series of breakthroughs: the development of the successful self-winding perpétuelle watches, the introduction of the gongs for repeating watches and the first shock-protection for balance pivots. A.-L. Breguet took refuge in Switzerland from the excesses of the French Revolution. He returned to Paris overflowing with the ideas that produced the Breguet balance-spring, his first carriage clock (sold to Bonaparte), the sympathique clock and its dependent watch, the tact watch, and finally the tourbillon, patented in 1801.
For Caroline Murat, queen of Naples, he conceived in 1810 the world's very first wristwatch. Honour saluted his enormous contribution to horology.
Today, Breguet holds hundred over of watch design pattern. The value is not just the watch itself but when we buy, the whole history of the best Swiss watching spirit. Note the design of the regulator, it is unique and most of the the Watch is classic and beautiful. One who knows watch…knows this is Breguet. HK Snob

Thursday, April 28, 2011

My Passion For White Gold


White Gold Looks to be White and brighter than Silver as Silver tends to get tarnish after some time. 18K White Gold is a mix of 75% Yellow gold and 25% of other alloy such as nickel, zinc, copper, tin, and manganese (and sometimes palladium). A jeweler once told me that white gold is actually more expensive to make than yellow gold.
Most diamonds are actually set in white gold to make them appear bigger. Take a look at a yellow gold ring and you will usually find a white gold setting.
In terms of value Platinum, White Gold, Yellow Gold, Rose Gold, Silver.
You use to be able to buy white gold at the same price as yellow gold. That was until it started to become more popular that is.
I think white gold is for those who like silver, but want to wear gold. Depending on your skin tone, as to which you should wear. On some people gold is too close to their skin colour and silver looks much better.
A little off the track, but astrologically, yellow gold is the metal for the Sun and Leo in particular. It works well with all fire signs. Silver is the metal for Cancer and the Moon, but also works well with water signs.
Some Country like India, Thailand, Mexico, Southern America, Vietnam and China people like Yellow gold more than White. And Especially Chinese., the Chinese meaning of White gold has the same meaning of the money for condolerence.. Which is bad for those Superstitious people. I am OK for that!
Someone especially old folks like yellow gold as they say White Gold looks like stainless steel or silver which is Cheap. And Yellow gold ha sits own shinny gold colour that nothing can substitutes.
I think White gold has a cleaner look as in jeweler in my opinion and white gold does enhance diamonds Anyway its white gold for me for important sentimental jeweler such as engagement ring, silver looks like white gold.
White Gold looks more low profile and More elegant to wear. I like Platinum if I can afford, that kind of grayish White Colour is like magic…
I like it so much, but Platinum is a kind of precious metal which is Expensive and hard to process.
Some people have said that white gold looks cheap...I used to think white gold and silver were interchangeable. They are not the same as Acidic People ‘s skin acid would react with Silver to get it tarnish and Blackened… But White Gold stay White all the time. So Silver and White Gold is not same.
If I can afford, I prefer Platinum, White gold, Pink gold, Yellow gold and then Silver…
This is my accessories for going work: A 18KT White Gold Rolex Day Date Watch. A pair of 18KT White Gold Cuff link, a 18KT White Gold Chain, a 18KT White Gold and 0.3 CT Diamond Tie Clip, A Sterling Silver Pilot Fountain Pen and Sterling Tiffany Silver money Clip…

I recently knowing that the White Gold Rolex Day Date is roughy HKD$38,000 more expensive than the same Model with Yellow Gold,,, so the White Gold by right is more expensive, less high profile for a man with a white skin texture... if your skin is dark, he should wear yellow Gold... My thought only... Most of the Chinese Rich man now is buying Yellow gold Rolex Day Just the Rolex shop at The One TST... They might need another 5 years to know what I am trying to say... They are rich in pocket but not too keen about the taste...
Tsim Sha Tsui Snob

Friday, April 22, 2011

Advertisement of Rolex in the Past


1953 Feb in Newspaper of HK
These are some of the Rolex Ads in the last 50 years... Note that they have one common strategy, Emphasis on Sport and Diving...Power and People who are wearing them. Now they employ city celibrities, sportsmen, singers as to promote the Rolex. This Policy has not been changed in the past 50 years. HK Snob

Two Hottest Rolex Rising Stars in 2011



Submariner Green Dial Green Bezel Fliplock Bracelet Ref 116610LV
The Green Rolex Submariner was first developed for the 50th anniversary of the Submariner series. It has a Green enamel bezel, instead of the classic black one. Inside the 12,8 mm thick case Rolex has fitted an automatic Caliber 3135 COSC certified engine with 47 hours power reserve. The watch is water resistant to 300m/1000 ft which makes it suitable for swimming, snorkeling and diving. It has been selling and I have seen friends of Mine The Boss of Woo Lee Restaurant.. She showed me two weeks ago… She bought it at HKD$56,000.00.
As you may have been waiting for this… Rolex has announced a brand new Explorer II, it comes with an orange hand, just like the original. But that's not at all!
The Ref 216570 Explorer II actually features a brand new movement Cal 3187, which is manufactured completely in-house by Rolex. The upgrades include Paraflex shock absorbers and parachrom hairspring.The case is 42mm and the watch comes with both black and white dials.
The bracelet is also upgraded to include a safety catch and Easylink extension link. Also, the new hands on the Explorer II are much wider than before, and both the hands and markers are now lined with black.
Rolex makes a note that this orange-hand Explorer is announced on the 40th anniversary of the Ref 1655 Explorer II.
Note that the Black One should be the winner! Price? No yet released.,… Keep an eye with your dealer and this is Hottest items from Rolex. WATCH OUT!


My Preferred item; Explorer II Black! The Rising Star!
HK Snob

How to tell a Rolex Explorer II is Fake?

Real Crystal with a laser mark at "6' oclcok position


This is a Fake Rolex Explorer II



The Rolex Explorer II is a difficult watch to duplicate because of the function of the GMT hand. Many fake Explorer II examples exist, but with obvious flaws such as an extra-wide GMT hand, or the GMT hand actually functioning as a 24-hour hand.
Also replica Explorer II examples tend to have inaccurate bezel font print (not bold enough) and poor magnification power of the date. Also note on some replica Rolex Explorer II models that the date font is too bold and "fat". This seems to be a recent problem.
I have seen a lot of fake Rolex Explorer II, the dial surface is not “Flat” enough.. This is the usual manufacturing difficulties of this Model. Sorry I can not get this fake dial to show you but it is easy to be seen once the watch is seen under some light reflection on dial.
So if you see an Explorer II , that is mostly fake if they are:
The Date appeared not Big enough under the magnifying glass
The Date Font looks too Fat!
The Font on the bezel is not Bold enough
The dial is not Flat enough!

The Printing on teh dial is not Clear enough
If that watch has these FIVE fake feature…on the same watch, 100% that is not a Rolex Watch…

If Everything is Looking perfect, wear it on your wrist for a couple of days and check for the timing, if that is gaining or losign time more than 15 Seconds a day... Likely that is some low cost Auto Watch Caliber, not ROLEX...

Those new Rolex Watch come with Laser mark of the Rolex Crown at the Crystal at '6" O'clock positon as shown on the attached picture.

Beware nowadays there is some fake Rolex equipped with some Real parts.... When you buy , you must go to the Rolex Authorized shops I had mentioned...

Reference "Replica Watch"
HK Snob

Rolex GMT Master II Ref. 16710

This is another Rolex GMT Master II, I had one two years ago and I sold it to someone. This is a very new... had just been serviced at Rolex Service centre for case Polishment. The Watch has a S/N of A680XXX. year 1999-2000.

Well, I Like it for the Blue Red Bezel, only I had money...Hmmm!

HK Snob

Thursday, April 21, 2011

What will be my next Rolex buy!?

Friend asks me what is the most desirable Rolex Day Date!? Needless to say the Platinum Rolex Day Date...Well, See if there is a chance to buy one...

Or probably Ref 1803 Water Melon Red, Melon Green Dial, Have you seen it!? Very Rare and very Expensive!This is my latest Rolex Day Date I bought two weeks ago... Day Date Model Ref 18049.

HK Snob

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Rolex Shopping in Macao

Macao has become the entertainment capital of the Far East the in more ways than one.
Certainly, the clusters of magnificent hotel, casinos, resorts, mall, restaurants, spa, massage palours and show venues that have transformed its landscape in the past ten years exert a power allure. But it's been almost thrilling to simply observe the breathtaking paces of the development of the infrastructures. With each new building striving to nudge the height of luxury just a little higher than the last. Seating beside the Venetian Hotel is the new bigger thing, the 550,000 sqm mega Resort Galaxy Macao. Constructed at a cost of HKD$15.9B. Will soon be commencing for welcoming your visit.
But I do have some of my deepest thought of This Little place.
Every where is Chinese, Rich Chinese, At least I have seen 20 Gold Rolex Day Date, mostly Yellow Gold, means that the Yellow Gold is the favourite choice for Rolex for Those Chinese…Omega, once in a while an AP Perpetual Calendar.
They are all lingering in the Lisboa Casinos or the Venetians… They all wear Louis Vitton or Gucci bags, Nice Italian Shoes but Aquascutum suit with the label still sticking on the left sleeves.
They spent ten thousand token on the gambling table as nothing as the way as I spend ten dollar.
Beside the street, you can see a lot of Pawn Shops, and by a rough estimation, I think there are at east 500 Pawn Shops in Macao. They all carry Rolex. And you can see a lot of Rolex. Of course can not find those Antique. One. Or rare Colour dial. Like Purple , Yellow or Orange…
I can estimate that there are at least 150,000 Rolex in the Shops of Macao, next is Omega, AP, Piaget, and PP….
Price!!? They are marked up at least 200-300% as that price of in Hong Kong. Some of the used Rolex is almost the same price of the new stick in Rolex Shop of Hong Kong. Well, they are preparing for your negotiation, as Chinese Like to negotiation. But some how if they do not know the price, even after less 50% discount, the article you buy is possible still more expensive than those watch of the same type as in Hong Kong…

As Chinese will be the major Visitors to Macao, Estimated to be 60% and 20% is from HK and Other Asian Countries, the way they spend money well I name Chinese Is the most Extravagent as comparing with other people. Hong Kong People seems to be vry low Profile now., has to be as Hong Kong People is no long Treated as "Big Spender" anymore as we were in 80's.
Buying watch, I still recommend HK is the best Place as for the qaulity of the watch we sell, and price is Right.So next time when you win some big bucks in the casino. And if you should not mind too much for the discount s your money is coming from Gambling… have a Happy Shopping Rolex in Macao!


HK Snob

Cartier Pasha C 36mm SS Watch



CARTIER Pasha C (36mm.) S.S. case and Bracelet, Auto. After Big Diamond-set Bezel. 369 White Dial.

HK Snob

Where to buy Good Rolex Watch in Hong Kong!?

There have been a recent price adjustment again for the third time since Nov 2010 on 18 April 2011. Rolex has increased 4% of their watch and 8% on Tudor series.
So. All the price of the watches has to be revised again. There are a lot of enquiry on the latest price of Rolex to me and All I can tell is the price of Today, as far as I know, you may not get any discount for those hot model such as the GMT Master II and Submariner.
Discount goes to those Date Just, or Date Day series…
Well, people ask me where to buy Rolex, you can refer to the Rolex Authorized Dealer shops in Hong Kong.

Artland
Chow Sang Sang
Chow Tai Fook
Dickson
Eldorado
Emperor
Europe
Fung Leung Kee
King Fook
La Suisse Watch
Oriental
Precision
Right Watch
Solomon
Tai Hing
Times City
Times Watch
Wah Hing
Zurich

As some of the Shops has a few branches, there are totally 74 shops in Hong Kong selling Rolex Watch, the watch are guaranteed genuine watches from Rolex.
As for the price, it varies a bit from one to other shop. If you are Walk-in, Max 5% discount, but for loyal customer and VIP, they will offer discount 8%-13%. But for certain HOT items, that may have no discount, like Daytona Stainless steel Submariner Green Bezel and Dial Ref 116610LV, the price is still HKD$66,100 (list Price)

HK Snob

Rolex Day Date Special Light Purple Blue Dial

This is an example of very special Day Date, because of the Colour of the Dial.

In order to match with the colour of the Dial, we have ordered the matching colour strap for one month.

HK Snob

Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060M

This is Submariner Model Ref. 14060M without date. However this has been issued once in 2008 and no more? You see there is the COSC verison... This is a good example for budgeted people who needs a Submariner, comes without date, Lower cost HKD$49000 vs HKD$62,100 in Dec 2011 pricing..
HK Snob

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Cartier Tank Americaine Ref WB7045L1 White Gold Watch


This is an example of enchanting design of elegant white gold embedded with unique arrays of diamond with precise Swiss handicraft of the Cartier Jewelers. A serious watch for demanding beautiful and modern sophisticated ladies, what else that can beat the tank design for her!? The Watch is selling at HKD$352,000.00 at Cartier boutique. It is heavier as it looks like. As the Strap was an assembled by a series of solid gold ingot polished to the right shape and curves with what Cartier’s Jewelers design is. An Automatic movement and come with Date. Lovely!

HK Snob