The first-generation Vacheron Constantin
Overseas, launched in 1996, marked VC's modern sports-luxe
era, evolving from the iconic 222 with
designs by Dino Modolo and Vincent Kauffman, featuring robust 37mm (Ref.
42040/42042) and 35mm (Ref. 42050/42052) cases, integrated bracelets with
Maltese Cross motifs, COSC-certified Caliber1310/1311
movements, and 150m water resistance, defining the collection until the second
generation's arrival around 2004.
Key Characteristics & History:
- Inspiration: Directly evolved
from the 1977 Vacheron Constantin 222, continuing the integrated bracelet
sports watch trend alongside competitors like the Royal Oak and Nautilus .
- Launch & Design: Introduced
in 1996, the design featured a distinctive Maltese Cross bezel and
bracelet links, housing an automatic movement.
- Movement: Powered by the COSC-certified
automatic Caliber 1310 (later upgraded to Caliber 1311) based on the Girard Perregaux 3100, with an 18k gold rotor and hacking seconds.
- References & Sizes:
- Ref. 42040/42042: The main
37mm model.
- Ref. 42050: A smaller,
mid-size 35mm version.
- Ref 42052 Smaller 24mm
quartz and rare left-handed versions also existed.
- Ref. 42040 (37mm) and ref. 42050 (35mm) were the first to be
produced. The reference number changed to ref. 42042 (37mm) and ref.
42052 (35mm) when the movement was upgraded from the caliber 1310 to the caliber 1311. Both case sizes
share the same movement and we’ll look at this in detail later on.
- The change in caliber denotes the reference. It is unknown
when the movement upgrade took place however it is presumed to be early
in the production making the 40 & 50 models few and far between.
There are examples of transitional pieces that were constructed during
the upgrade period making it rare but not impossible for a ref. 42040 to
house cal. 1311
- Production: The first
generation ran from 1996 to approximately 2004.
- Success: The Overseas was a
significant commercial success, revitalizing VC's sports watch segment and
establishing a foundation for future generations
Dial
Sigma’, ‘T Swiss Made T’ & ‘Swiss Made’
The first first batch of dials for the ref.
42040(2) and ref. 42050(2) were generally ‘Sigma’ stamped at the 6 o’clock
marker featuring Tritium lume. Interestingly Patek and Vacheron were last to
use ‘Sigma’ on their dials before moving to ‘T Swiss Made T’.
There is no clear date when ‘T Swiss Made
T’ first appeared on the dial. It is a common misconception that all ref. 42040
are ‘Sigma’ signed and all ref. 42042 are ‘T Swiss Made T’ signed, this is not
the case, the reference change was linked to the movement upgrade. ‘Sigma’
dials have been seen on ref. 42042 models up to early 2000’s with some of the
later examples also featuring Luminova.
Finally the ‘Swiss Made’ dial featured at
the very end of production with Luminova permanently replacing Tritium. These
dials have also been found on service replacements.
Movement
Cal 1310
For the ref. 42040 and ref. 42050
Vacheron Constantin took the Girard Perregaux cal 3100 based ebauche, renamed
as their own cal 1310 and COSC certified. The cal 1310 features a gold rotor
weight, and 27 jewels. It’s automatic, has a quick-set date function, hacking
seconds and a 46 hours power reserve. Total height of the ultra thin movement
was around 3mm.
Introduction of the Cal 1311
The strengthened cal 1311 was Vacheron
Constantin’s revision of the cal 1310. This is believed to have taken place not
long after production of the 1st generation Overseas' began. This change
increased the thickness of the movement by 0.3 mm however no change was made to
either case for ref. 42042 or ref. 42052. The modification is
thought to be made due to flex in the main plate so reinforcement was added.
Case Back
Signature feature of the Overseas
collection, a solid case-back adorned with a depiction of the famous Amerigo
Vespucci three-masted ship. Seen as a symbol of the world’s greatest sailors
travels and an open invitation to travel the seven seas in-fitting with the
brand story for the Overseas collection.
Collection Item
1.
Early pieces is best
2.
Pink Gold 42042 told was made 5
pieces
3.
Left hand crown told was made three
pieces were made
4.
Salmon Dial is rare
5.
White dial with creamy patina Guilloche
is adorable
6.
Blue is next choice
7. Collect them all is what a real collector should consider
Comment
I love the engraving on the case back, as a
sport watch should not having see -through bottom, that is totally wrong
concept as that is not a dress watch for showing the polishing works.
The cost should be taken in account when
producing this 42042 with a Engraved bottom plate. None of the Holy Trinity
will do it nowadays unless they make a bespoke version for you.
Vacheron Constantin in Hong Kong is being a
well underrated brand as mots people goes Patek or Audemars Piguet. Well, I
think VC is the oldest Swiss watch maker and had years of producing beautiful
watches, amongst them I like Vacheron Constantin and happy to see their price
is now as high as other two brands.
Last, always take 42042 as first choice.
What piece do you like most ?
Paul Ip
