Any surprise on Watches & Wonders 2022?

What is the mostly discussed topics on W & W 2022?

Vacheron Constantin 222 retro. It is an awesome piece as a replica as of the one introduced in 1977 as a 222th anniversary of the Vacheron Constantin. It has no second hand, 37mmin diameter, the size that makes many people feel questionable small, why ? Yes 37mm, as Vacheron Constantin is taking a lead for going smaller watches. in 1977 , there were 100 pieces of solid gold 222 made, plus another 400 stainless steel. Those are all collectible item now. 

Audemars Piguet is also introducing a “34mm Royal Oak” watch this year. It should be a right size ofor ladies.

Rolex declared to discontinue the three OP41 Tiffany Blue, Coral Red and Yellow from the list.

Reason unknown, but I don’t think these OP41 Tiffany blue will be an evergreen item on Chrono24, let’s watch for a year.

Rolex introduced a Left hand version of GMT Master II, even the date window goes Left! It’s not right!

Patek Philippe has no surprise at all.

The rest of other brands are just so so…

This 2022 watch year is not as excited as 2021, probably COVID-19 had an impact even on launching new design of watches…

HK Snob

Luxury watch is the latest currency

 Aftermath of US EU countries with all-round sanctions including German agricultural seeds for Russia.

Chinese are learn to keep physical goods and not paper money, thought there is not official announcement on this but we can feel that people of China are awakened.  There will be a huge round of inflation as the US, Japan, UK, Sweden, etc, are printing more and more money.  So the Chinese are planning not to accept USD but only their RMB for payments.

 When the U.S. COVID-19 epidemic broke out and there was no effective preventive measures and control for a long time…  the country’s populations were isolated, production stagnated, and stocks of supplies quickly dwindled, and the Federal Reserve desperately cut interest rates to stimulate the economy including printing bank note for the so-called quantitate ease. 

The Euro, the US dollar, the British pound, and the Swiss franc are all such currencies and will gradually become useless paper.  When the country’s inventory is extremely running low and scarce.         Everyone understands that whoever exchanges real physical things for these spirit money is insane.

Just within this quarter, the United States has issued an additional 1.9 trillion dollars, and the Japan also printed a large amount of money. Banknote becomes as cheap as toilet paper or spirit money.

Many people including Eastern Europe as majority understands that in any country where the epidemic is not under control, they will no longer exchange physical objects for foreign currency.

Many people are using watches as for their latest tool for money laundry. As anywhere anytime you can cash and there is no customs restriction when you travel anywhere in the world.

We have taken this action, and it is estimated that Vietnam, India, Malaysia, Indonesia other than China and other producing countries will also adopt similar "CLOSE DOOR" measures.

In view of this, I think many of the people will use their extra money buying/selling luxury watches as an investment fortress for the reasons:

1.       Easy to cash

2.       As an alternate security of their properties other than Bitcoins, NFT

3.       Easy to move around across countries

4.       No Lawyers service charges, no commission fee

5.       The higher price of the watch the higher the demand

6.       The Big Three, Plus RM and Rolex

 

Why not? As these are the new currency now.

 

HK Snob

Trend of smaller watch

The trend for slimmer and smaller diameter watches started 2017, Why? Larger watch carries more space and dimension, larger watch tends to be more “Empty” whereas smaller watch tends to look for “Refined” and packed with feature.. Large watches have a lot of empty space to deal with, both on the case and dial. Taller, thicker watches tend to have cases that feel slab-sided, while watches large in diameter often have dials with an overabundance of negative space, making the watch feel empty and chopper-board like. When a case is unnecessarily beefed up in size simply to suit consumer demands, these design missteps become all the more inordinate.

On the contrary, smaller watches tend to feel more refined and packed with features. Watches that are gratuitously big don’t feel as purposefully made; heaven, making a big watch is relatively easy. But small watches require more planning and working within more constraints. Complex movements need to be engineered to be slim and compact. Cases need to be thin but still strong enough to resist shocks, deformation and water resistant. Tolerances between the dial, gasket, base metal, dial, hands gears, and crystal need to be as tight as possible.

A substantially-sized watch is an ever-present weight upon your wrist, a truly comfortable watch is one that feels like feather on your wrist. Thinner, smaller watches are just inherently lighter by virtue of using less material. Further, if your wrist shape is more round than it is flat, a smaller diameter watch will sit more flush with your wrist. I wonder who could wear a Rolex Platinum Daytona all days, you know its weight is like a small hammer.

Many people being brainwashed by fashion fascism dictating huge clocks? Why is it that men’s clothes have been getting tighter and skinnier, like G2000’s popular slim fit shirts with narrow shoulders and slim trousers but at the same time men’s watches grew bigger and fatter? A weird and contradictory development. we call it the terror of fashion, that people without taste follow blindly. Of course if you are 6 feet tall, it is not in proportion to wear a 36mm Sport watch (Rolex new Explorer I)

My advices are to buy whatever you like regardless of size. And to consider the smallness. In fact, if recent industry trends are any indicator, more small watches are on the way.

Look at these new launched models…

Vacheron Constantin introduced 37mm Overseas, they are not made unisex not just for ladies and also for men who appreciate smaller watches they intend to find in the market. 

Paneria introduced a smaller diameter of 38 mm watches for lady, and they don't have to put a 44mm watch on their wrist, I think that is a decent size to wear.

Omega also launch an Aqua Tera 5 colourful watches with 38mm in this year.

Tudor’s downsized Black Bay Fifty-Eight is a prominent example in dive watch form, coming in at 39mm.

Oris, meanwhile, produced a 36mm version of both its Divers Sixty-Five and Big Crown Pointer Date.

In W & W 2022, Audemars Piguet launched a 34mm Royal Oak for lady, Yes 34mm!

The new Super hot Vacheron Constantin 222, it is 37mm!

HK Snob

Picture: AP latest 34mm Royal Oak

Watch Buyers in Hong Kong

 

Watch Buying behavior in Hong Kong

We have been numerously trade with many watch buyers

There are many weird behaviors that I can’t figure out why.

1.       Cheapo Tudor 1970 Day Date selling HK$20,000.

Buyer ask why there is no original buckle, is the lume still there? Well, this is 70’s how come to have working lume?

I told him to study a bit first before buying watch, any watch... 

2.     My partner one is real funny as he fed up with some of the question of the buyer asking why do you sell your watch… note his reply: he said "Well, I am sorry that all my family members died because of COVID-19, and I need money to arrange their funerals…” after he showed me the message I laughed for 15 minutes.

3.       Selling  a Montblanc  Limited fountain pen, Semiramis at Carousell, the buyer ask what nib size, I told her M, then she keep quiet… after two days, I told her what is her decision, she wanted F nib, well, I told her I have also F nib for the same pen. Then she keeps quiet forever…

4.       Most of the buyers care about price and price only. When there is no paper, she will ask why no paper, when there is paper, they will ask why no green tag, when there is green tag, they will ask why no original box… well, when we have real full set, then they can’t afford the price.

5.       When price is agreed, then we talk about trade date and time, just one hour before the trade time, I was hurried back home ready to go to buy the Green dial Tudor, he whatsapped me saying ”oh, this green dial Tudor is so beautiful, I have decided not selling at this price!”  LOL.

6.       People made a counter offer my Vacheron Constantin solid gold Gen 1 chronograph 50% of my listed price HK$150,000 in 2020. Well, I did not sell it out, and one close friend who bought from me at HK$155,000. Now the same watch is selling almost $400,000 in Chrono24.

7.       When there was a guy asking how about to Rolex Service center to authenticate the new watch Submariner 116613LN 2020 watch, I used not go to Rolex for such thing, but this time I told him “OK” but he kept quiet…?

8.       There is one chap who confirmed to buy the Rolex 2300 yesterday and saying that we shall trade by 1400 next day, but in the next morning… he said he passed as he think the price was too expensive!

9.       When the Daytona was selling US$30,000, people said so expensive. After one year, it was selling US$45,000, he said price is insane, after another 6 months the price is US$50,000.

He says price is crazy, well, with this attitude, he probably can’t buy any Daytona. He told me one day Rolex bubble will burst. Yes one day… when? I heard about Rolex bubble burst 15 year ago. LOL 

This is my personal watch trade experience, the article is not meant to pin point anyone.

HK Snob

Vacheron Constantin Overseas is the next hit

                                

The market has gone insane about Patek Philippe’s Nautilus, and the already high prices of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak will skyrocket in a matter of a matter of two years even amidst of COVID-19

The “Holy Trinity” of horology is composed of Patek, Audemars and Vacheron Constantin. What’s VC answer to its mainstream cousins?

During the “Japan quartz crisis”, Audemars Piguet introduced a premium stainless steel watch, creating the first modern luxury sport watch, it created the idea of paying for a luxury item of a steel watch, not necessarily for the intrinsic value of the object.

Noticed popularity that AP was gaining with its new Royal Oak, Patek Philippe seeked the same designer, Gerald Genta, to create Patek’s Nautilus.

What was Vacheron Constantin doing, being the oldest watch maker in current production?

Vacheron Constantin followed Patek, decided to introduce a modern sports watch. They hired a young designer named Jorg Hysek and requested him to create a watch in line with the Royal Oak and the Nautilus.

In 1977, the Vacheron Constantin 222 was born. 222 is the anniversary of the birth of the oldest Maison in Switzerland in 1977.

The beautiful Hysek’s design incorporates all the esthetic details that were popular in the 70s such as sharp angles, integrated bracelet and a distinctive bezel. The caliber inside was the thin VC1120 the same movement was being used in the Royal Oak and Nautilus, based on a Jaeger LeCoulte design.

It was produced in much smaller quantities that its cousins, however, it was available in a wide range of materials and sizes, from stainless steel to gold, from 25 to 37 mm. A square version was available too.

After some short experiments with the “333” and the “Phidias", two very 90s looking watches that allowed Vacheron to experiment some innovations, the brand was ready to unveil its watch for the new millennium.

The Overseas

Designed by Vincent Kaufmann and Dino Modolo in 1996, the “Gen. 1 Overseas” was released and immediately crowned as the heir of the 222. The nautical theme, which was at the base of the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, is now fully embodied.

Very discreet at 37 mm, Model 42042 with iconic bezel is intended to remind the Maltese cross, VC’s logo. The overall look of the Overseas immediately conquered the heart of many watch enthusiasts, looking to acquire a true sports watch, paired with the elegance and artisanal craftsmanship typically from Vacheron Constantin. This was immediately recognized to be one of the most beautiful and refined sports watches available.

The Overseas Gen. 1 was redesigned in 2004, to create the “Gen. 2”, with the intent of creating a much sturdy watch, capable to withstand every adventure.

The case was bulked up to a larger 42 mm as in the hype for bigger case and a new, less delicate, bracelet was introduced. This bracelet reminding of a half Maltese cross, is now an icon of the Overseas.

In 2016, introducing the “Gen. 3”. The general design was modernized with softer lines: the eight notches of the bezel were reduced to six, the hands were slimmed down and the solid case back was switched in favor of a sapphire case back. This allows the owner to admire the magnificent movement, powered by a solid 22Kt gold engraved rotor.

A system of quick interchangeable straps allows to switch between a stainless steel bracelet, a leather strap and a rubber strap without the need for tools, providing incredible versatility for the owner.

The wide variety of complications, from chronographs to perpetual calendars, is masterfully executed, creating one of the most refined and elegant sport watches ever.

The Overseas is ready to hit?

For over the last ten years, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas was overshadowed by it more mainstream cousins, the Royal Oak and the Nautilus. While the Reissue 222 in 2022 has now reached a cult-like status, being rightfully crowned as a 80s icon, the Overseas is just beginning its rise.

In 2019 Oversea Gen. 1 automatic watch blue dial was as little as HK$80,000, now we can see Chrono24 is selling as high as HK$240,000. That is 3X higher in 3 years.

In my humble opinion. The top tier quality of the masterpiece with so many unique iconic feature on one single watch. The Overseas is the watch gaining momentum. No doubts.

HK Snob

Picture top down

1st picture :VC ad on 222 in the 70s

2nd and 4th Picture : VC 222 with special gold inlay with diamond.

6th and 7th picture: VC Overseas Gen. 1 in blue Ref 42042 37mm.