Pilot watches and HKWF recommendations

Pilot watches were made for the quest of flight in Europe in the beginning of the 20^th century. The world’ first pilot watch was made by Cartier, Louis Cartier to be precise. The Santos watch was made by Louis Cartier for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont to wear in his flights in 1906 so he did not have to look at his pocket watch when controlling his aircraft. The watch first went on sale in 1911.
 

In 1912, Louis Blériot flew across the English Channel with a Zenith pilot watch which featured oversized Arabic numerals, an oversized crown and luminous hands and dial. From 1939, the Zenith Zenith Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 became a standard instrument for French aircraft. Zenith then successfully made its name in the history of aviation.

However, what made pilot watches so popular were the two world wars. British pilots began to use pocket watches in WWI. In WWII, five manufacturers including A. Lange & Söhne, Wempe, Lacher & Company/Durowe (Laco), Walter Storz (Stowa) and IWC started manufacturing the legendary 55mm B-Uhren for the German air force. Today, you can find vintage pilot watches made by these companies sold at hefty prices.
 

These B-Uhren were large, easy to read and anti-magnetic and they laid down the foundations for modern pilot watch designs. 

 

Our recommendations:

1.      Breguet Type XX
 

The Breguet Type XX connects aviation with the brand’s family history. The Breguet Type XX Aeronavale can trace its roots back to the 1950s when the French Naval Airforce made a special order for 500 pilot watches with “flyback” function. Until today, this function remains one of the very recognizable features of the Breguet Type XX Aeronavale.

The watch features a 39mm case, a size which is just about right for everyone’s wrist. It has a polished case and a polished bi-directional bezel. The case is very well finished with coin edge. The dial is extremely legible with three sub-dials displaying the running seconds, the minute counter of the chronograph and the hour counter of the chronograph.  

This watch is one of the most celebrated pilot watches in production. It comes with a brown alligator strap or you can choose the bracelet version, which is equally elegant.
 

The watch retails at around 80k HKD. You can expect more than 20% discounts at HKWF. However, If you want to get a second-hand one, you may as well go for those which have tritium dials. The vintage feeling of those watches are just irresistible.  

 

 1.      Zenith Type 20 Annual Calendar

The Zenith Type 20 Annual Calendar is absolutely a bang for your buck. It is a pilot chronograph that has annual calendar display and retails at around 75k HKD before any discount.
 

The watch is a reissue of the aforementioned Zenith Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 with modern functions. It has a 48mm stainless steel case with a huge onion crown. The oversized hands and Arabic numerals offer very good legibility, which is a must for pilot watches. The display of the date is at 6 o’ clock and the display of the month and the day is at 3 o’ clock. The two sub-dials are the chronograph’s minute counter and the running seconds.

The watch comes with a brown alligator strap. It is a blend of modern functions with retro style. On the wrist, it gives you a lot of wrist presence. It is not a watch to be ignored in any way.

 

1.      IWC Big Pilot Heritage 48 (Heritage 55)

IWC has in 2016 updated its pilot watch collection. Adhering to the brand’s design of the 1940s pilot watch, the Big Pilot Heritage offers two choices on case size, 48mm and 55mm. While the 55mm version is exactly the size of the original B-Uhr, the 48mm version may be more wearable for most who are not Arnold Schwarzenegger.

 

 

The case of the Big Pilot Heritage is in sandblasted titanium, which helps reduce the weight of the watch. The hands are in blued steel and it has a seconds sub-dial. The Arabic numerals are in beige color.

The strap that comes with the watch is a brown calf-skin pilot-style strap which has rivets on it. It is a watch that reminds you of the WWII era and one that is absolutely better than a Steinhart, a Stowa or a Laco.

 The IWC Big Pilot Heritage retails from 120k HKD to 140HKD. It is a simple and pure pilot watch with great history and tradition.

 

 

HKWF Group

Introducing the Breguet Type XXI 3817

Breguet has always been known for its highly priced classic watches. This year, the brand has extended its line of pilot watches by releasing the Breguet Type XXI 3817.

Breguet’s Type XX debuted in the 1950s when they designed the watch for the French naval air army. Since then, the line has been extending with chronographs that all feature the “flyback” function. Normally, we have to hit the “stop” pusher before we reset the chronograph. With the “flyback” function, we can skip the “stop” pusher and reset the chronograph by simply hitting the “reset” pusher. This allows us to time successive events without stopping the chronograph.

At Only Watch 2015, a charity auction that took place in Genève, Breguet released a similar model which had a platinum case. Now, the stainless steel version is out and it offers another choice of different aesthetics from the existing Breguet Type XXI collection.

 

 

 

Although Breguet has been updating the Type XXI line in the last few years, this model may be the most promising one. At 42mm, the watch features a slate-grey dial with oversized beige Arabic numerals which will absolutely catch your attention. The vintage-style design complements the classic case around which coin-edge finish is found. The “flyback” function remains and the bi-directional bezel is the same as the previous Type XXI models. The sub-dials display the running seconds, the 24-hour indicator and the chronograph hour counter.

What makes this watch a truly high-end chronograph is its movement, which now features a 18k gold rotor. Unlike other pilot watches, the movement, which is an in-house Breguet caliber 584Q/2, is visible through the watch’s sapphire crystal case back. The well-polished rotor is very attractive to look at. The caliber is Breguet’s newest version of the 584Q movement. It has a 48-hour power reserve and silicon escapement as opposed to metal escapement in the previous versions.

To complete the vintage-style looks, The watch is worn with a brown calf-skin strap which has beige stitching on it.

 

The price of the 2016 Breguet Type XXI 3817 is around 110K HKD, which is a very affordable price for you to own a Breguet. With discounts, you can own a brand new Breguet with splendid history for less than 100k HKD. It is a very classy pilot watch with vintage elements and practical functions.

 

HKWF group

Jason L

 

Tony Time Watch Shop

You can not judge the book by its cover, likewise, Tony Time is a small shop but it may have something you are looking for.

Rolex is his passion, he is a big Montblanc pen collector also...

When you feel bore about those big shops that would not tell you more about the watch except price. come to this place and talk to Tony...

You know Why? he is Tony Ip.... now you know...

PS, there is a elevator on the left side of Chung King Mansion (Tsim Sha Tsui) that will bring you to the 2nd level where his shop is there...

Opening Hour : Mon-Sat 1400-1900

Sunday Close

Tony will leave for oversea tour for ten days starting next Saturday 4 June. Don't go there between 4-14 June 2016!

HK Snob

Phillips Viewing Reminder

Don't forget there is viewing for your watches at Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong today and Tomorrow before the auction date 31 May.

It seems to be the most exciting watch event in town.

HK Snob

HKWF Watch gathering

Parmigiani Split second White Gold
Rolex DD OQ 19018 Birch
Cartier Japan limited edition 300 pieces Full Set (sale)
IWC Automatic with IWC bracelet (Sale)
Cartier Roadster Chronograph with FP movement (Sale)
IWC Chronograph

HK Snob

Tag Heuer Monaco Steve McQueen

Monaco Blue dial, Steve McQueen, Brand new in box Full set. MSRP HK$57,800

Calibre 12 automatic chronograph 39MM.

We have been offered a special deal for HKWF reader at a Special Price HKD$37,200 Cash.

HK Snob

Rolex Day Date Ref.1803 white Gold on sale

These are two beautiful samples of Rolex White Gold Ref.1803.

 

The Left one is a light blue matt dial of perfect condition.

 

The Right one is a Arab numeral with Arab Dial of Date and Day dial.

 

 

Interested parties please WhatsApp me for more information and price.

 

We can deliver by hand to Philippines.

 

 

HK Snob

Choosing the right dial for your Daytona

For years, the Rolex Daytona black dial has been the more sought-after version than the white dial. However, things have seemingly changed for the new 116500ln Daytona Ceramic.

Most Hongkongers preferred to buy the black dial version of the 116520 as it is a safer choice than the white dial version. However, is it really true?

A black dial chronograph has an inborn weakness – its legibility. Any watch with sub-dials is more legible in while dial than in black dial. The Daytona is no exception. Although the black dial gives the Daytona a stronger character, it also looks more dull and boring.

 

The while dial, on the other hand, is not only more legible, it is also more classy. On the new 116500ln, the white dial seems to be a wiser choice as the dial color contrasts very sharply with the ceramic bezel and the sub-dial rings. The black dial version is not too bad as the silver sub-dial rings look very sharp. However, with the black ceramic ring, there is not much contrast in colors. The whole tone is too dark.

 

 

 

The choice for a right dial for your Daytona can be even more of an issue if you are looking for a yellow gold or rose gold Daytona. The 116505 rose gold Daytona matches the ivory dial best as it provides an elegant look with great legibility.

 

If you are looking for a yellow gold Daytona, make sure you do not miss this year’s new release 116508 with a dark forest green dial. It will be surely a stunner in the metal.

HK Watch Fever Group

Should you buy the Rolex Deep Sea D-blue? Or should you go for the Deep Sea black?

To buy or not to buy. That is the question.

 

The Rolex Deep Sea D-blue, or the Rolex Deep Sea James Cameron Edition, debuted in August 2014 to commemorate James Cameron’s dive into the deepest point on Earth, the Mariana Trench, in a one-man submarine called Deepsea Challenger.

The watch features a gradient blue-black dial, symbolizing the dive from the surface of the sea to the deepest part of the ocean. The letters “DEEPSEA” is in green, the same color as the submarine James Cameron was in.

 

The D-blue retails at around slightly more than 90k HKD in Hong Kong while the Deep Sea black retails at around 70k after discounts. So, the question is, whether it is worth it to pay a premium of 20k for the dial? Having owned both versions, I can only tell that each version has its own character.

 

I purchased the D-Blue after I owned the Deep Sea Black. The Deep Sea was, and remains to be an attractive watch to me and to those whose wrists are thick enough to carry the watch.

 

You can see how thick the watch is even on the wrist of David Beckham and Tiger Woods. Its 18mm thickness is one point that makes Asians hard to wear the watch in a good-looking way.

 

I do think that the thickness and the slightly out-of-proportion design can be a feature instead of a defect. While wearing the watch tightly, you can avoid it from swinging back and forth. I have seen people with skinny wrist looking good with the Deep Sea as they wear the watch tightly with the Glidelock clasp.

 

But, is the Deep Sea D-blue worth your money? My answer is positive. The Deep Sea black has one very obvious disadvantage, its color. When looking at it, you are almost looking at a big dull diver which is way thicker than a watch is supposed to be. It is almost an instrument.

 

However, the Deep Sea D-blue is way more colorful. The blue-black dial makes the ceramic bezel look more outstanding. You can enjoy different color shades on the dial under different lighting. It can be purple sometimes and it can be almost black sometimes. It is, with only a change of the dial, a completely different watch from the Deep Sea Black. It is way more fun to wear it.

 

On the wrist, the Deep Sea black gives you a more solid feeling as a professional diver. Its all-black dial gives you a very traditional taste of dive watches. The Deep Sea D-blue, on the other hand, due to the lighter color of the dial, feel a bit less serious, in other words, less dull. It is a watch you do not see a lot on the street. If you already have the Deep Sea Black, you might as well see it for the D-blue. If you do not have a Deep Sea Black, skip it and get a D-blue.

HK Watch Fever Group

Affordable versions of the Paul Newman Daytona?

Affordable versions of the Paul Newman Daytona?

Omega may be your answer. 

At HKWF, we at times recommend affordable versions of watches that carry super high prices.

 

In this first episode, we would like to talk about the Paul Newman Daytona 6263.

 

 

A Rolex Daytona 6263 “Paul Newman” can easily cost you over 300k to 900k HKD. It is one of the most desirable watches at auctions. The panda dial on the 6263 is one of the signatures of the so called “Paul Newman” dial with three black sub-dials on a while dial.

 

 

 

If you are looking for a watch with similar aesthetics, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch First Omega in Space may be your answer.

 

 

 

The name of the watch is quite long. At 39.7mm, the rose gold version is a numbered edition, meaning that it is not in limited production. The case is made of what Omega calls Sedna Gold. The panda dial looks terrific and its design is said to be inspired by a watch worn by astronaut Wally Shirra in 1962 during the NASA Sigma 7 mission.

 

 

 

 

 

The black ceramic tachymeter bezel complements very well with the panda dial in which an outer black ring surrounds the white dial on which three black sub-dials sit.

It does remind you of the Rolex 6263 doesn’t it? The movement inside is the manual-wound 1861 movement. The watch has a domed sapphire crystal. The rose gold version retails at around 130k HKD and HKWF offers you a good discount on this watch.

 

If paying over 100k for an Omega bothers you, let’s take a look at the stainless steel version, the Omega Speedmaster CK2998 Limited Edition watch.

 

 

 

This is the stainless steel version which basically retains all of the characteristics of the rose gold version. This watch will be produced in 2998 pieces. The bezel, the sub-dials and the chapter ring are all blue in color. The central chronograph second hand is now a lollipop hand. The bezel is in polished blue ceramic and the blue crocodile strap completes the looks.

 

 

The 2016 new release will retail at around 40k HKD. A bargain isn’t it? Given how nice looking the whole package is. 

Sometimes we can have our own fun without paying a premium for mega watches. These two Omegas will give at least half the fun as the Paul Newman Daytona but at much lower prices.

HK Watch Fever Group

 

 

 

 



A comparison of three dress watches, Chopard, Zenith and the IWC

A comparison of three dress watches: the Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860, the Zenith Elite 6150 and the IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days.

From time to time at HKWF, we compare different watches for you. In this episode, we are comparing three dress watches from Chopard, IWC and Zenith.

 

The cases

 

At 42mm, the Zenith Elite 6150 is 2mm bigger than its two counterparts.

 

The lines of the case look a little fatter than the other two.

 

The IWC Portugieser Hand-wound Eight Days has a “thinner” case than the other two as the curves look more clean-cut than the other two.

 

The Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 has the thickest bezel and all of the three watch cases are highly polished to a mirror finish.

 

The lugs on the IWC and the Chopard are more angular than the more classic lugs on the Zenith.

 

At 12 mm in thickness, the IWC is thicker than the Chopard, which is 7.2 mm thick, and the Zenith, which is 9.25 mm thick. The Zenith also features a dome-shaped crystal while the IWC crystal is slightly domed.

 

 

 

 

The dials

 

The dial on the Zenith has a silver tone and it has sunray pattern. The leaf-shaped hands and the markers are rhodium plated.

 

The Chopard has a silver-toned dial with sunburst satin-brush while the IWC has a white dial and Arabic numerals.

 

The Zenith’s second hand is at the center while the other two have their seconds sub-dial at 6 o’ clock.

 

The IWC has a date window at 3 o’ clock while the Chopard has its at 6 o’ clock. Worth noting is that the Zenith has no date window which makes it a purer classic.

 

 

 

The movements

 

The IWC features its in-house 59215 manual-wound movement and it provides a power reserve of eight days.

 

A power reserve indicator is located at the case back which can be seen through. All the plates are finished with Genève Stripes.

 

The Chopard features its in-house Calibre 96.01-L and its finishing is top-notch.

 

You will feast your eyes with a 22k gold micro rotor and well-polished plates and angles. Again, all the plates are finished with Genève Stripes and the movement has a 65- hour power reserve.

 

The Zenith Elite 6150 movement may not be the best decorated among the three, however, it provides you with a power reserve of 100 hours, which is approximately 4 days.

 

The price

 

The Chopard retails at around 80k HKD in stainless steel.

 

The IWC retails at around 70k HKD and the Zenith retails at around 60k HKD.

 

At HKWF, all three watches are available with good discounts.

Editor’s pick: The Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860

Reasons: The finishing of the movement is simply incredible at this price point. The dial and the case are classic and simple. Plus, the thickness is only 7.2 mm which makes it perfect for a suit wearer. It is a watch with a lot of work and sincerity.

 

Jason L

HK Watch Fever Group

 

HK Snob