Rolex White Gold Orchid

I bought this white gold dress watch for my mother in 1976 with HKD$5,500. She gave it to me recently after knowing that I am watch collector. This watch was never been serviced at all after 30 years. This is real good Rolex Quality, or may be my storage is Good. As I used to take out and let it run it for a couple of days before storing it again.

HK Snob

Rolex 15200 Date

This model is very basic and does not come with the fluted or machines bezel. The bezel on this watch is smooth and very plain looking. It is all time favourite work horse for men and women. Right size, right tone, right price and right Rolex Quality, can be used for all occasions, a friend of mine a VP for a Taiwanese company use this watch for 20 years, never been having any trouble, he did not send it to Rolex centre for service, even he came to walk with me for 100Km Trail walker with this watch for three years.
It is basic watch with Date, perpetual calendar, oyster strap, stainless still, nothing is made of gold, this is good for those people who is allergy for gold!
This example shows the Rolex registered design of the watch case. This particular watch is the 15200 design which is all stainless steel in construction.
Many older Rolex watches can still be found that have the original green hologram on the back of the watch case.
It is interesting that on this watch, the original hologram label has a Rolex crown that is a cross between the older Rolex crown design and the newer versions. The balls are larger as in the newer designs, but the length of the crown spires are still shorter than the older versions.

HK Snob

New 2012 Rolex Sky-Dweller

The Rolex 2012 Collection showcases Sky-Dweller was presented at BaselWorld 2012,

The New Rolex for global travelers, with two time zones and an annual calendar. Inspired with Rolex Engineering with 14 patented designs.

A particularly ingenious patented mechanism Saros annual calendar inspired by an astronomical phenomenon differentiates between 30-day and 31-day months, just four additional gear wheels. You need just one adjustment per year on the date!

With a revolutionary annual calendar offering unparalleled robustness and reliability for such a complex watchmaking function. This annual calendar’s qualities are attributable to an ingenious mechanism named Saros, patented by Rolex. Its original design was directly inspired by the astronomical phenomenon of the same name.

Discover the sophistication and simplicity of this revolutionary timepiece and explore the Sky-Dweller's features

Ref 32695 is come with new Calibre 9001, 40 rubies, reserved with 72 hours, 42mm Oyster Perpetual

A bit surprise on how it can maintain the water proof function between the bezel and the watch itself!? What a Rolex genius patented design!

Hontesy, looking at this picture not the real watch not until I can a real watch on my hand to review. Base on what I get from Rolex Website, it seems to me it is not too easy to read the information such as the month and the local time, and the local time zone dial is offset to one side without moving indicators, that is hard to read.

The Name Sky-Dweller sounds a bit uneasy to me, Sea Dweller is good name but not Sky-Dweller. Something Likes Flyer King, Traveller Master, World Traveller, Air Master, or something like Sky-Sniper, Air-Sniper, Air Chaser, Time Traverser, Air Speeder, Time Speeder, Air Transporter, City Voyager, Air Expedition, Time Expeditionist...can be considered etc...

Knowing that Rolex does not want to have drastic changes on th dial design and they want to move it graudually to test the public acceptance. Even the name, this may be the key factor of Rolex's Success!

Calibre
9001, Manufacture Rolex
Mechanical movement with bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor on ball bearing
Precision
Officially certified Swiss chronometer (COSC)
Functions
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
24-hour display on off-centre disc
Second time zone via independent rapid-setting of the hour hand
Instantaneous annual calendar at 3 o’clock with Saros system and unrestricted bidirectional rapid-setting of the date
Month display via 12 apertures around the circumference of the dial
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
Oscillator
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring
Breguet overcoil
Large balance wheel with variable inertia
High-precision regulating via four gold Microstella nuts
Traversing balance bridge
High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers
Jeweling
40 rubies
Power reserve
Approximately 72 hours

Specifications

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
Reference (case – Bracelet): 326939 – 72419
Case
Type: Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)
Diameter: 42 mm
Material: 18 ct white gold, polished finish
Case back: Screw-down with Rolex fluting
Bezel: Fluted, bidirectional rotatable Ring Command
Winding crown: Screw-down, Twinlock double waterproof system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant synthetic sapphire
Cyclops lens (2.5 ×) over the date, double anti-reflective coating
Waterproof: 100 metres (330 feet)
Dial
Colour: Ivory, satin finish
Hour markers: Roman numeral appliques in 18 ct white gold
Hands: 18 ct white gold with phosphorescent material
Bracelet
Type: Oyster, three-piece solid links
Material: 18 ct white gold, polished centre links and satin-finished outer links with polished edges
Clasp: Folding Oysterclasp
Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
Reference (case – Bracelet): 326938 – 72418
Case
Type: Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)
Diameter: 42 mm
Material: 18 ct yellow gold, polished finish
Case back: Screw-down with Rolex fluting
Bezel: Fluted, bidirectional rotatable Ring Command
Winding crown: Screw-down, Twinlock double waterproof system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant synthetic sapphire
Cyclops lens (2.5 ×) over the date, double anti-reflective coating
Waterproof: 100 metres (330 feet)
Dial
Colour: Champagne, sunray finish
Hour markers: Arabic numeral appliques in 18 ct yellow gold
Hands: 18 ct yellow gold with phosphorescent material
Bracelet
Type: Oyster, three-piece solid links
Material: 18 ct yellow gold, polished centre links and satin-finished outer links with polished edges
Clasp: Folding Oysterclasp
Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link


Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
Reference (case – strap): 326935 – Brown alligator leather
Case
Type: Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)
Diameter: 42 mm
Material: 18 ct Everose gold, polished finish
Case back: Screw-down with Rolex fluting
Bezel: Fluted, bidirectional rotatable Ring Command
Winding crown: Screw-down, Twinlock double waterproof system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant synthetic sapphire
Cyclops lens (2.5 ×) over the date, double anti-reflective coating
Waterproof: 100 metres (330 feet)
Dial
Colour: Chocolate, sunray finish
Hour markers: Arabic numeral appliques in 18 ct pink gold
Hands: 18 ct pink gold with phosphorescent material
StrapMaterial: Brown Alligator mississippiensis leather
Clasp: Folding Oysterclasp in 18 ct Everose gold

Only Solid Gold version is available, Hong Kong Rolex AD will have stock about September, Price TBA.
HK Snob

Rolex Ref 15238 Soild Gold Date Just

This watch was made for one discrete model with Solid Gold version, riveted Osyster solid gold bracelet, White Enamel like dial, Roman hour indicators. There is not stainless version on this model.

The one wearing one my hand is an exanple of excellent condition. I am a fan of Day Date, so Date just may becomes a bit less Poisonous to me...

But I do not mind to buy it if I had another HKD$62,000!

HK Snob

Rolex Flagship Model Day Date Ref 6611

The Day Date became Rolex's flagship. The first model (6511) lasted just over a year before it was replaced by the externally identical 6611 with caliber 1055 movement with its free sprung Micro-Stella balance and was the first to be labeled "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" on the dial. This new accuracy standard guaranteed the watch to remain within + 3.0 seconds per day. This is the official birth of the Rolex Legend model Day Date… I have been longing to see one.

Today, I can have one in my hand, it is original Ref 6611. The Rolex Day Date, the fluted bezel has a finer pitch, the hour Marks is a thick piece of wedge shaped sold gold set on the dial, there is “"Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” on the dial at the six o’clock position.

This model has been released for about two years only, there should not too many example of good condition Ref 6611. In 1959 caliber 1055 was replaced with caliber 1555 in model 1803 (18,000bph) and later In 1965 - model 1803 received caliber 1556 (19,800bph). In 1977 caliber 3055 (quick-set) was introduced in model 18038.

In 1988 caliber 3155 (double quick-set) was introduced in model 18238.
Caliber 3155 is the caliber still used today in all Day-Date models.

HK Snob

How to Take out the Ceramic Bezel of GMT Master

First of all, question is why I have to open the GMT Master bezel?
For the perfectionist like I, I may like to clean it regularly, I may need to re-align its capillarity, or angular position. Knowing from some one saying that the ceramic bezel was fixed on to the bottom ring by means of double sided self adhesive tape!? Is that Right? A HKD$62,100 watch is using adhesive tape to fix the bezel, I still have puzzled for this unbelievable concern, well not until I open it to see the real situation is!

This has to be done either via removing the entire bezel or the ceramic bezel. Removing the ceramic bezel seems to be the easier way since the bezel construction is a little different from the normal submariner bezels. But removing the ceramic bezel does pose some challenges in removing it cleanly and safely without destroying or scratching it.

I came across website telling us using a plastic sheet as the opening tool to wedge off
Through trial and error. The piece of plastic is those mounted on shirt's collar.Insert at the gap between the bezel and the crystal, work your way around the bezel. The bezel is attached using double sided tape and therefore it is quite easy to separate it.

Any crystal alignment can be done easily after the bezel is removed. We can clean by apply gasoline to remove the double sided tape adhesive residuals and fix it properly by
new adhesive tape. People may question why use tape and I will find out more. Thanks to the Orginal Blogger mentioned this to us as I have no time to open the Watch and check. It is a good topic for further investigate. I think Rolex has well thought about it.

HK Snob

Tudor Ref. 79090

This is Tudor 79090 Submariner 40mm.
Rolex case, Rolex Crown, acrylic Crystal Black Dial and powder coated dial.
No more in production and is hard to find in good condition, it is selling about HKD$18,000-28,000 depending on condition. Don't miss it.

HK Snob

Swatch Full Turn Night SVAZ104S

Designed for men, build in high-tech ceramics black light, surrounded the Carousel movement, with the parts to 25 ruby bearings through the sapphire crystal glass, clearly visible. The mechanical device is placed on the watch with all the components disk movement, such a design, a movement to consolidate the operation of parts in each group, with the balance wheel escapement and a perfect match to ensure that accurate when the meter is running. Gear and control system placed in the transfer tube, and to rotate twice per hour, the operation of the whole, the balance wheel and escapement, as the satellite-like, walking around the center of the watch, full of beauty. Diaphane One Full Turn Night encoding the global production of 200 limited edition.

Diaphane One Full Turn Night luxury mechanical watch making is definitely the best example for the style in the world only store a limited post-coding of individual SWATCH sale, Hong Kong has been placed two, number, respectively (N ° 80) and (N ° 81 .) Limited number engraved on the light inside the black ceramic, as well as watch the bottom of the case, and highlight the unique and noble identity.

As a Christmas Special 2010. with list Price tagged at HKD$82,000.00, butonly a few known nunits were sold in HK.

HK Snob

Watch Trend 2012-2017

Watch has been designed with change in size, the choice of different material, thickness, the way to display time…and design on the movement, from simple manual winding movement, Automatic winding, Day and Date display, Chronometers, Repeater, Alarm , Tourbillon, 2 Dimensional Movement tourbillon, Double Tourbillon, Diamond Like Coating case, Brass, Titanium, Carbon Composite material and Ceramic Composite compound…etc.

Size from 33 mm in the 50’s, moving up to 36 and 39 mm in 1970’s then going to smaller one like 23 mm for man and gradually increasing size in recent ten years and now even a size of 55mm an be found… A thickness of 20mm and a weight of 300 grams. It is almost the size of a Small Clock for your desk top!

Well, the trend is keep going, to maintain a comparatively large size even Rolex had to announce to go for 40mm for their Major production model Date Just, and The Explorer II new release has a size of 42mm..

What we can see is that more and more people have fed up with too many fancy but non-functioned features on a watch… moreover the watch has becoming more expensive with unreasonable price… A Simple Solid gold watch is in the range of HKD$220,000. a Skeleton Tourbillon is easily HK$2,000,000. a Double Tourbillon Skeleton in PT is HKD$4,500,000.

Is that a price for a Porsche, a Lamborghini or an Aston Martin? But the watch is weighed just about 150 grams.

Each gram of substance is costing about HKD$30,000.
Where as each gram of Ferrari Substance is just HKD$1.73 for a HKD$2,600,000 Ferrari!!

When I wake up tomorrow there will have more 10,000 Millionaires in China.. Who will be surprises if you not mark up your price that Higher!? How can you suck up all the money from these rich big spender who may buy the high end watch just looking at the high end price?… Now the highest market segment of Rolls Royce is in China., No more HK, US or Saudi Arabia…

Well, what is the trend of Watch making in the coming year?
I think there are a few streams

1. More and more people will look for thinner and Simpler watch dial design. like three or even two hands manual automatic watch. This can take up 10% of the High end market. This will be supported by Piaget, IWC, JLC, and VC.

2. More and more super complicated watch made in limited number for the collectors and act as show case for demonstrate the power of the Watch Company.

3. More cheaper watch plus a lot of add on function will be made for the rest 80% of most of the watch user from Mid Low Range of Swiss, Seiko, Citizen, Timex, Casio…

4. More and more Yellow or Rose Colour Gold will be made as comparing with the White Colour gold.. as we have been seeing enough White gold or Stainless watch in the past 10 years, we feel bore!

5. More and more individual watch maker will emerge as an independent watch brand to go for Higher end markets. The make small number of watch with stunning design and moderate complexity.

6. PP will be a did hard classic watch maker with less bold change on the major design , they are slowing migrating to the younger watch buyer esp. from China. A big more sportive image will be add on the basic Series. As young Rich Chinese below 30 will not appreciate the Classic Look of PP. They go AP and VC…

7. Swatch , once was the King of the watch hit in 1989-1995, and I believe they are making a Plastic Tourbillon for giving me a surprise of What A price for what’s a real pride!?

8. More fun watch will be made in the Easter Asian new designer like HK, Korea and Japan. And they will be made as a trendy stuff for the youth for low end or give-away items.

9. Rolex will be maintain his usual way of making different casing, new gadget on case and dial design , seeking new material for make their watch more durable and more reliable, rather than going in parallel with the higher end completion with complicated watch. Rolex Will never make any Tourbillon before 2016.

19. I am still a Fan of Rolex and this trend will not change.
HK Snob

A Thought of Time

Time is a part of the measuring system used to sequence events, to compare the durations of events and the intervals between them, and to quantify rates of change such as the motions of objects. The function of watch is used for telling the time. Time is the all datum for every event to be getting started, halted ongoing, and stop in this World, but not too sure if there is another Time used in other Universe?

No matter the world most Accurate and likely the most expensive Clock at National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST).It's accurate to one second in about 3.7 billion years. Or the one you are wearing on your wrist… No matter a few thousand dollar gold watch or some two dollar cheapo you bought from the Sham Shui Po hawkers. They function the same: tell the time…
Time seems to be abstract, time moves on second by second, day by day, year by year, can only have one direction, as displayed on your watch so called Clockwise direction.

There is numerous scientist had been spent life time effort to retard the time, not to mention to reverse it. So far, there seems have no way to do anything about it. I saw Nicholas Cage movie "Next" that he could possibly see the future that it would happen two minutes later and that seems he can control the world as CIA would track him down for helping US Governement to defuse a terrorist nuclear bomb! This is in the fiction or movie but in the real life.

We can count time on our watch, every tick tac of second represents that you have been aged exactly for that amount. We have been lucky survived for that moment. And in present time of moment we should treasure it. Many Watch collector keep their expensive, limited and special with in the safe. While the power reserve indicator show “Zero” it has no power start the fly wheel. I do think it is pity, as the watch maker has been spending tedious effort to make such a great watch, but it becomes an investment article in the dark and cold safe.

If I were him, I will put it on my hand and every moment I see the seconds hand moving it tells me our life is going on, and the left our known friends, lovers are going on. What a wonderful moment and seconds we can hear this little piece of watch movement keep time accurate, never steal you a second.

Let's enjoy our life and let' pay a little bit of respect to the Time. No matter is displayed by the triple complication Patek phillippe, Paul Newman Daytona, an Audemars Piguet, Swatch, Seiko It does not matter to you, they work almost the same. As different people has their own way to appreciate time and his watch. It is important that you have to treasure it, as by tomorrow, my watch may still moving but my life won’t go on!

Treasure your time of every second with you watch, your family members, your lovers, fiancée, or mistress.
HK Snob

Roger Dubuis Velvet

Since 1995, Roger Dubuis has earned appreciation from the Chinese big spenders, discerning Watch connoisseurs, private collectors, and Celebrity. With fine Swiss horologer achievement and Company strategy to offer every watch made for qualifying for stamping “Genève Seal”.
This is a new design to offer those sophisticated ladies a time piece on her writs at same time a piece of jewelry. But not too much as a show off of glittering of precious gems.
The way they inlay the diamonds are just for the right design need. And not to uncover the precise Movement under the case.
The Velvet Watch is employing the RD821 movement which is made of 172 components. The Whole watch is entirely developed, hand-made assembled in the Roger Dubuis Ateliers.
Exterior was a black Technical prowess of black DLC treatment solid Titanium. An audacious and unseen combination of colours, reflecting the dramatic and dark beauty of our "Incredible Diva" universe.
· This Velvet watch design is made in Titanium with DLC feature;
· 36mm in diameter.
· One round of Amethysts and Black Diamonds on the side;
· 100% In-house automatic movement;
· With Genève Quality Hall Mark and COSC Certificate.
This watch is selling at HKD$308,000.00.
PS
Diamond-like-carbon (DLC) coatings are a particular area of expertise on surface treatment for both colour and hardness. Among PVD & PaCVD coating compositions and technology, DLC coatings stand out as a particularly distinctive category. These coatings exhibit a desirable combination of a low coefficient of friction and high micro-hardness, making them extremely effective in many tribological and wear applications.
DLC coatings are formed when ionized and decomposed carbon or hydrocarbon species land on the surface of a substrate with energy typically 10-300eV. DLC films may possess exceptional mechanical (high hardness), optical (high optical band gap), electrical (high electrical resistivity), chemical (inert) and tribological (low friction and wear coefficient) properties and can be deposited at low substrate temperature (<200°).
It is a new way to apply the treatment on the surface of the metal like Stainless steel or Titanium, this will ensure the metal surface to be hard enough for durability, black as the desire colour of the watch designer, and smoothness for extra wearing comfort.
Roger Dubuis made it on Titanium has a ultra light weight for the lady to wear. It is an expensive process and the yield is low, so as the cost will be high.
AP, Hubolt, Richard Miller Panerai and Cartier has a few launched models using this DLC process on their watch.
HK Snob

World's Most Expensive Watch Ever sold!

Sotheby's experts estimated that this watch would sell for between $3 million and $5 million, but due to intense competition, bids soared to more than $11 million in 1999. With 24 complications or functions and two faces. This 18kt yellow-gold pocket watch took four years to build and still holds the record for the most expensive watch (non jewelery watch) ever sold. It is Patek Philippe Cal. 89. Only one is known to be produced!
If Patek Philippe produces two pieces, the auction price will not that high, it may reach 3 millions only... As this is a very heavy pocket watch which you never want to wear it in your pocket!
HK Snob

What’s the best Rolex for investment?

Many people talks about using Watch for an investment, yes that is right if you go for certain limited production for some branded watch like Patek Philipe, Audemars Piguet, Rolex… we can check out the hot items in the watch auctions. An investment watch has certain basic requirement:
1. Limited units available
2. Beautiful design or feature.
3. Sophisticated movement
4. That Watch will not be produced as a retro version as new anymore.
5. Timing (factors like Trend, preference on colour, size, material) *
If you said buying a new Rolex and put it in safe waiting for the price to go up and earn money, that may not be practical, as they are production watch, and those are new, you may have to wait for many decades to see that watch could offset inflation to return you some dollars.
Simply as I say No Rolex should be purchased with a perceived notion of investment....
They should be worn and enjoyed! Or more precisely having said that, almost all Rolex watches will hold their value in the long haul, but will loose out in the short term.
Watches should not be bought as an investment. Buy the one you like and enjoy it. If it goes up in value that's great!
If buying with the sole reason not to loose money on a future resale then buy second hand as most of the depreciation would already have been taken.
Your best bet to buy a Pre Owned Submariner, GMT or SS Daytona. They seem to hold their value pretty good in the used market.
I bought a 1950 bubble gold 14K Rolex in 1986 at HKD$5,000 from Kiu Tai Yu. After using it for almost 8 years and then I sold to some one with HKD$18,000 … and that watch price kept going up to HKD$38,000 in 1996. but due to the trend for watch size was going BIG, that Bubble back Rolex was not able to further appreciate much after 1997.
If I were you, at age over 38. I have no hesitation to recommend you to buy a used Day Date Ref. 18038 (Rolex Flag ship model). For your daily uses,
This is one that has its own specialty, the dial is beautiful, even colour, brown orange colour that is eye-catching even from a distance, Sapphire crystal for scratch proof, watch proof is not a question for Rolex, Day date is best for man like I to remind me the important of the day and time. Perpetual Auto rotor keeps power reserve for min. 42 hours. Price, estimated to be HKD$44,000…and I am sure the price will move up with inflation.
It is not an investment item, but after 10 years, you may able to get back at least HKD$35,200. So it costs you HKD$9.6 a day to own this watch.
If you don’t like Day Date, simply go for s used Submariner, GMT Master I or II.
Talking about real investment, we have better go to buy some blue chip when Hang Seng Index goes down to 18,000 points.

Note * a very ugly colour like Mandarin Yellow or Stella (Red) in the 60's which no one wanted, and was made only a few units... now it is likely to be very rare and expensive.

HK Snob

Jaeger LeCoultre Futurematic

 

I have seen a lot of Gold plated Jaeger LeCoultre Futrurematic. This is Solid Gold just has been restored.

It is very Stylish with Art Deco design arrangement of Dial.

Red Indicator on the left is power reserve Indicator. An interesting Watch with hidden crown. However if you are easy to sweat in Summer, you had better do not wear it, as the sweat will easily goes into the watch through the gap between the crown and the case.

The Automatic winding is running by a tiny swinging hammer with two spring dampers on both end of the rotating axis. The Winding up efficency is low comparing with centrifugal rotor.

HK Snob

Britian's Most Honest Man!?

The 28-year-old Aaron Large spotted the first timepiece while jet-washing a roadside drain a week ago! Striking gold: Mr Large was cleaning a drain near Chalkwell train station in Essex when he saw a glimmer amongst the dirt. He found a Rolex Daytona, Well., the watch as in the ditch!? That would be a good ad or Sales gimmick for Rolex as it is not being spoiled by the dirty water and contamination. Will you return the Daytona to Police station when you pick up a Rolex!? He later found two more; OneFrank Muller and an Omega.. Can I say Aaron Large is Britian’s most honest Man!?
Britian Snob

The Thinner The Better: Piaget

Piaget was founded in 1874 by Georges Edouard Piaget. Piaget is widely known for its magnificent jeweled dress watches - and for its Polo line of watches which has been redesigned into various incarnations over its 25 year history. In 1956 Piaget launched the first mechanical ultra thin movement with manual winding 9P calibre. They became the masters of ultra thin movements. Later on in 1960 they manufactured another ultra thin movement the 12P which landed them in the Guinness Book of Records as the thinnest self-winding movement (2.3 mm) in the world. Piaget is also recognized though for its watch movements and parts that are often used by other watch manufacturers (particularly Cartier and other brands in the Richemont watch group)
Attached Picture shows Altiplano manual 9P (1957) and automatic 12P (1960)

The other is the world's thinnest Auto movement 12P from Piaget!HK Snob