Rolex Submariner Ref.5513 on sale

Rolex Ref 5513, Submariner two liner
Patina Dial,
With paper, manual and Submariner booklet
Big Crown
HK$110,500
HK Snob

Pre-owned Rolex Daytona White Ref. 116520 On sale

Rolex Daytona Ref. 116520 in steel.
2008 HK AD watch
With paper, 95% new.
With Paper and Box

HK$87,500
HK Snob

王子篇一, The story of Rolex Prince (1)

王子篇(一)
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勞力士係過去所付出既努力,佢之可以有今日,正如所説,成功並非偶然,一間公司既成功,必定有其原因.

勞力士創辦人Hans Wilsdorf 係一個奇才,佢不單只令勞力士屢創紀錄,佢既市場推廣策略,令勞力士更上一層樓.就以勞力士(Rolex)依個名為例,其實Rolex依個字本身係冇意思, Hans Wilsdorf只係要創造一個簡短,可以令人容易上口,容易記得既名字.所以佢就張26個字母,不斷重複又重複咁排列,終於被佢想到Rolex依個字.

係1910年代,勞力士只係一間"新公司",佢冇悠長既歷史,所以要打入市場,Hans Wilsdorf知道,佢要靠實力戰勝其他公司,因此,佢集中去研發一d極準確既機芯,更屢獲殊榮.1926年勞力士更加發明左蠔式防水錶,令佢聲名大噪. 依d係勞力士係技術上既成功.

1929年全世界陷入經濟大蕭條時代,全球國民生產總值(GDP)係頭三年已經下跌左15% (2008年經濟倒退,全球國民生產總值只下跌吾夠1%).當每間瑞士鐘錶廠想法子掙扎求存時,勞力士不單沒有收縮, Hans Wilsdorf更反行其道,不斷研發新產品,以圖打入不同階層既消費者.係依段經濟大蕭條時期,勞力士有三大發明:

蠔式防水錶 (Oyster) 1926
王子 (Prince) 1928
棺材仔 (Oyster Perpetual) 1931

王子既成功,充分表現出Hans Wilsdorf既才華,更顯得佢膽色個人. 首先, 王子既吾防水,又吾自動,以當時黎講,只可以話係一隻時款手錶,當全世界喺經濟大蕭條時諗緊點緊縮求存. Hans Wilsdorf 就行極高級路缐,張王子標榜為成功人任之手錶"The watch for men of distinction", 某些王子型號,售價就等於當時一架汽車既價錢.

王子錶獨特既長方型機芯設計,張個balance 同winding barrel 分開上下一方,咁樣做法,可以令隻錶行得更耐時間(58小時)同更準確.因為王子錶張個時針及分針同個秒針分開上下兩個盤,令人更加容易睇到秒針,使用者更容易幫人探脈搏,所以王子錶亦叫醫生錶.

最早期之王子錶只分收腰(Brancard 如#971)及直身(Straight 如#1343)兩種,後來加入其他型號,如火車軌(Railway 如#1527), 羊角(Ram #3937) 及大三針之#3361及跳字王子(Jumping Hour),更有懷錶王子(pocket watch)及Sporting Prince等等.

用料方面有最貴之正鉑金, K金, 金鋼, 鋼, 銀, 白金屬及包金等.當然, 正鉑金就一定係最貴最罕有,如果以K金黎講, K白金為最罕有.事實上,任何1930年代K白金男裝勞力士皆為罕有.我地從未見過K白金oyster仔或棺材仔.

Nice 14 KT Yellow Gold Ram case

 

 

1930年代1/4世紀收腰王子.近乎完美既狀態.原裝錶盒,原裝皮帶,並附有原裝說明書

 

 

 

繼1920年代尾勞力士出產收腰(歐洲及亞洲叫Brancard, 北美洲叫flared case)及直身(straight case)兩款王子.勞力士係1930年代中再加入火車軌(Railway #1527)款王子.

1930年代為Art Deco年代,火車軌款,就係一款非常之正宗既Art Deco款, 勞力士玩既就係缐條,係錶身旁邊各加多兩條軌,一級一級向下.所以叫火車軌,有時我地會見到一d火車軌王子左右只各加一條邊.依個Art Deco設計,一直受大眾歡迎,並且影響深遠.係2003年PP出左款 Grand Complication #5101 十日動力陀飛輪,亦係用同一款式.

王子係古董勞之中,最難玩既其中一款,因為玩王子門檻高,動則四,五萬起,假嘢多,要入門玩真係吾容易,再加上王子有七,八十年歷史,要揾品相好既亦有難度.

2 mint condition railway Prince in 9K white Gold

#1527 9K白金王子
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除左大三針王子(#3361), 火車軌王子(#1527),係眾多款王子手錶中最少有既一款(以錶殻款式而論).再加上極罕有既K白金及95%品相.好錶難求.

1930年代,勞力士出產左火車軌王子,佢既錶殻,揉合左當時既Art Deco運動,用藝術既方式表達出黎,影響深遠.Art Deco運動只延續到第二次世界大戰初期,大概1940年, 隨之而起既係當時既現代主義(Modernism).
 

 

 

勞力士係1940年代就用依種現代主義藝術,再為王子生產另外一個款式: 羊角王子(Ram case). 羊角王子之命名係因為其錶耳獨特,好似羝羊既角咁.佢錶耳既外型,就同近代最偉大既建築設計師 Frank Lyod Wright 所設計位於紐約之 Solomon R. Guggenheim 博物舘一樣.我地可以想像得到,勞力士張藝術同王子既錶殻,變為一體.如果要我想另一間錶廠可以做到依個地步,我只可以想到PP, 上世紀40-50年代PP出產左好多如藝術品般既錶殻: Hour Glass, Eiffel Tower, Top Hat等.
 

Frank Lyod Wright's Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum Design

羊角王子可以分為兩種, 早期羊角係凸出既.後期羊角係凹入既.根據小弟既1/4世紀王子.最後期之收腰王子為1947年,而最早期之羊角王子亦為1947年.因此,我地可以推斷,羊角王子之生產期大概在1940年代中/後期.

第一期羊角王子由1947年開始至1949年, 而第二期就由1950年至停產期.小弟見過最後一年為1954年. 因此,我地可以推斷王子停產期為大約1950年代中期.依個亦解釋左,點解早期之1/4世紀王子用收腰款,而後期之王子用羊角款.

小弟用九隻1/4世紀羊角王子所砌成之骨牌:

 

from Left to Right
第一行:
#971     14K 白金雕花
#971     14K 黃金/白金雕花
#971     14K 黃金/白金
#971       9K 玫瑰金/白金
#971      925 銀

第二行:
#1490    14K 黃金
#1490    鋼/玫瑰金
#1490      9K 黃金
#1490      9K 玫瑰金
#1527      9K 白金

第三行:
#1862      全鋼
#1343      全鋼
#3937      14K 黃金(後期)
#3937      14K 黃金(早期)
加拿大直身王子 包金/鋼


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Rolex Day Date Ref.1803 bracelet

 

 

A Right Bracelet may sometimes more difficult than a watch to be found.

 

This is one early Bracelet of 18KT gold for your Day Date.

 

HK Snob

Pre-owned Rolex Ref. 16700 Pepsi on sale soon

 

The picture is not the actual watch.

A perfect condition Rolex GMT Master Pepsi will soon be on my hand for your preview, it comes with Paper.

If you are keen on it, don't hesitate to inform me.

There has never been never too late for GMT Master as it price is going up faster than anything from Rolex.

HK Snob

1970 Omega Geneve on sale

Omega was likely at his peak for mass production in 1960 to 1970.

Omega has produce hundred types of beautiful watches in these two decades before the Quartz watch was launched by Seiko 1969.

These is a large watch in that time, manual winding stainless steel with art deco Arabic numeral dial design. With the original strap and the wide Omega Logo on buckle.
A 100% unused new old stock dress watch for you.

P.O.A.

HK Snob

What do you consider when Buying your first watch!?

What to consider when buying your first watch? 

A lot of people come to us buying their first expensive watch. The first watch means a lot. It may well be the result of your endeavors. So, do your homework before you go for your first watch. Here are some factors you should consider.

 

 

 

1.      The brand

Your first watch needs not be fancy. Why? Because it will serve as your upgrade weapon in the future. You would like your watch to retain its value after a year or two when you want to exchange it for a new watch. Watches from big brands like Rolex can do that. Rolex watches retain their value very well. It is also a well-known brand. You do not want your watch to leave other guessing what brand it is after you have spent so much on it. Picking the right brand is therefore very important. Of course, you can argue that you would like to get a watch you like from a less famous brand. It is very much a personal choice. But if you are new to the watch world and have limited budget, do go for a Rolex.



 



 

 

 

2.      The price

As your first watch, you do not want it to be too cheap. Similarly, you cannot expect to get the most expensive one as you are on a budget. Take Rolex as an example, some people would go for a Daytona as their first watch. It is the most famous steel model. Surely there is no problem in such a choice. However, some of us might not have that kind of budget and getting to the top without looking at the scenery along the way is no fun. So, choosing those Rolex models at around 45k to 68k would be more reasonable.



 

 

 

3.      The model

Sports watches are in vogue right now. The question is, do they really suit you? Whether a watch suits you really depends on how you dress. If you wear a suit every day, a sports model may not be the best for you. You may then want to look for some dressy models. The point is, you do not want to buy your first watch and put it in the box for longer time than it being on your wrist, right?

 HK Snob

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Ref.79250BM

 

Tudor Black Bay Bronze – an affordable bronze watch made by Tudor. 

Tudor introduced this Black Bay Bronze at Baselworld 2016. At first looks, we were all stunned by how beautiful the watch looks.

 

 

 

 

The new Black Bay Bronze is 43mm wide and has a bronze case which in time will develop unique patina according to personal using habits. It has a brown bezel and dial with 3,6,9 numerals on it. The watch comes with two straps, one is the distressed calf strap and the other one is a nato nylon strap.

The watch features an in-house Tudor movement, meaning that Tudor no longer use modified movements. The list price? It is 28,500 HKD.

 

 

 

Currently there are a few request on this watch but I am sure AD will not likely let go to us at List price.

 

So if you want to get this watch, I am afraid you nee to pay for a premium,

Gray Dealer price is HK$34,000 to HK$36,000.

 

HK Snob