勞力士 Explorer II 型號 16550 搭配 Tiffany & Co

 這段關於勞力士 Explorer II 型號 16550 搭配 Tiffany & Co. 雙標及「奶油」色氧化錶盤的故事，正是腕錶收藏界中一場完美風暴的化身。它集罕見的過渡期型號、傳奇的零售商合作夥伴關係，以及美麗的製造缺陷於一身。當這些元素交織在同一枚腕錶上，便成就了古董鐘錶史上最罕見、最昂貴且最受追捧的「聖杯級」運動腕錶之一。

 

1. 舞台：過渡期型號 16550勞力士於 1985 年推出 Reference 16550，用以取代初代「大橙針」Explorer II（Ref. 1655）。這是一個僅在 1985 至 1989 年間生產了約四年的「過渡期」型號。升級配置：它為 Explorer II 注入現代氣息，換上了藍寶石水晶鏡面、亮面錶盤以及帶有白金外框的幾何形狀時標。機芯：它搭載了全新的 3085 機芯。這讓 24 小時指針可以獨立於普通時針進行調節。這項升級正式將 Explorer II 從原本為洞穴探險家設計的簡單 AM/PM 指示器，蛻變為一款真正的雙時區 GMT 腕錶。

 

2. 美麗的缺陷：「Panna」或奶油色氧化在最著名的 16550 腕錶中，最核心的視覺特徵當屬奶油色錶盤，意大利收藏家親切地稱之為 panna（意為鮮奶油）。漆面瑕疵：這並非勞力士刻意的設計。勞力士在一段短暫的生產期內，在其「Polar」白色錶盤上使用了配方出錯的白漆。色調蛻變：隨著時間推移，紫外線照射和大氣環境導致漆面中的二氧化鈦發生變化，使原本冷冽的冰白色逐漸轉化為濃郁、溫潤的香草布丁或象牙奶油色。稀有因素：由於這本屬缺陷，許多原錶主在定期保養時，會將開始變色的腕錶送回勞力士。勞力士則會將這些「瑕疵」奶油盤更換為正確的純白售後服務盤。因此，時至今日，未經更換而倖存的原廠奶油盤極為罕見。

 

3. 雙標：Tiffany & Co. 的尊貴光環在 20 世紀，勞力士允許特定的頂級奢侈品零售商在其銷售的腕錶面盤上印上自己的品牌標誌。其中最負盛名的合作夥伴便是 Tiffany & Co.聯名零售：在 1980 年代後期，顧客走進紐約或比華利山的 Tiffany 精品店，就能買到一枚頂部帶有「Rolex」皇冠、下半部則印有清晰襯線體 "Tiffany & Co." 標誌的 Explorer II。

 

決裂與終結：這段聯名合作在 1990 年代初期戛然而止。雙方因排版控制權以及由 Tiffany 還是勞力士負責保養與售後服務等問題產生爭執。勞力士最終徹底停止供應聯名腕錶，永遠切斷了合作關係。這段固定的歷史窗口，意味著帶有 Tiffany 印記的真品運動腕錶在數量上是絕對有限的，且受到了市場極為嚴格的審視。匯聚之處：為何對收藏家如此重要？當你發現一枚同時具備這三種元素的腕錶時，你正在見證一個歷史的奇蹟。

 

Explorer II 16550 在當年本就是產量低且未獲充分賞識的工具錶，這意味著 Tiffany 當年訂購的數量遠遠少於 Submariner（潛航者）或 Datejust（日誌型）。一枚能夠倖存至今的範例必須滿足：腕錶必須在 1985 年至 1989 年間購於 Tiffany 精品店。它在出廠時恰好用上了那批特定有缺陷的白漆。錶主在腕錶開始變色時，抵受住了更換錶盤的誘惑。在視覺上，這枚腕錶呈現出強烈的對比。"Tiffany & Co." 的黑色字體在濃郁的象牙奶油色背景襯托下顯得格外醒目。正因為這層疊加的極致稀有性，這些特定的雙簽奶油盤 16550 在國際頂級拍賣會上輕易就能拍出 65,000 至 85,000 歐元以上 的高價，奠定了它們作為古董鐘錶收藏界終極極品之一的傳奇地位。

 Paul

My Own Watch picture, Copy Rights

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New 2021 36 mm Explorer I Ref 124270

於今年年頭推出的新款Rolex Explorer 124270，從Explorer 214270 39毫米錶面，回歸至36毫米，當時不少人都紛紛憶起木村拓哉在《戀愛世紀》、《HERO 2》入面戴著的Explorer I。新款式黑色漆面錶盤上「3-6-9」這組數字仍然搶眼，源用Chromalight夜光顯示，指針及立體時標上均塗有夜光物料，載3日動存的Cal. 3230自動機芯。除不鏽鋼款外，亦引入黃金鋼款，以品牌獨有蠔式鋼10款Rolex男士入門錶款推薦

 

勞力士男士入門錶款推薦01 ：Rolex Explorer Ref.124270 

2021市場價格：約HK$72,000 – HK$98,000

2021官方售價：HK$50,000（不鏽鋼版）配上含有18K黃金的Rolesor物料，讓人耳目一新。

HK Snob

Rolex Explorer I Ref 14270 and Ref 214270

Matt Damon and his Explorer I Ref 14270

Two Generations of Explorer I. Which one you prefer?

Explorer I Ref 14270  (36mm)

When I travelled to Singapore, I went to People’s park oriental Watch Shop buying Four Explorer I

Ref 14270 with Each HKD$14,900. At That time, that was a hot item and not so many stock available, something like the GMT Master II Blue in HK now.

I sold One of them at Cost to one of my colleague, and three of them sold with some profit of HKD$3,000 each.

Ref 214270

Now The new face listed Explorer I Ref 214270 (39mm) is selling HKD$48,200, assuming less 10% discount, that is HKD$43,380.

Major Difference other than size of the “Explorer “ is printed at O’clock position on Ref 214270.

Both watch strap is of size 20mm, Which I think it is best matching with size of the watch on Ref 14270.

Whereas the same strap is a bit smaller on Ref 214270.

Which One do you prefer!?

1. If you are looking for long term value Ref 14270 as the market value is HKD$29,000 to HKD$34,000 whereas Ref 214270 is selling HKD$28,000-30,000 in Pre-owned Watch market.

2. Rolex Ref 14270 fits for middle size man and women.

3. Seems Ref 14270 is more classic than Ref 214270.

Find the best one that suit you, both of them is good watch.

I think Woman wears the Older version of Ref 14270 looks very charming!

HK Snob
Watch Fever

Face Lifted Rolex Explorer I

This is a 39mm new face lifted Explorer I, ref 214270 it was made larger to a size of 39mm. Which looks a bit more updated to the new age people for demand of a bigger size! Well, the movement is still the same: good sturdy accurate Movement...made by Rolex
Price is HKD$43,605.00
HK Snob

Rolex Explorer II Orange starts on Sale now Ref 216570

We have heard that some of the branches of Oriental Watch Company had started having supply of this watch already. It is about HKD$68,000.00 last week, then came down to HKD$63,000 beginning of this week. of course no discount at this moment. The Standard price should go to HKD$61,000.00 I guess!. Well, I have reserved one here and another there, see when I can get one at a standard price... I expect no discount already...
If you had ordered this watch, go and check!
HK Snob

Rolex Explorer II Orange is on Sale Now

There is news that Hour Glass Singapore has some limited Supply of Rolex Explorer II Orange for Sales, The Black Dial is more attractive as I was told by my friend, of course he is Singaporean.
They are asking SGD$10,000.00, that is an equivalent of HKD$62,000.00., VAT included.
In Dubai, there in Rolex AD selling at AED$31,000, that is HKD$66,650.00.
So in that sense the official price for this Explorer II Orange is approximately HKD$62,500 I guess on Hong Kong. In the first two months I Don't think they have any discount offered for you. I think by End September, the HK should have this latest invasion from Rolex.
HK Snob

Keep an Eye on Rolex Explorer II Orange Hand Ref. 216570

Rolex makes a note that this orange-hand Explorer is announced on the 40th anniversary of the Ref 1655 Explorer II.
This watch is yet to reach HK, as many friends have asked about this watch, in fact from what I know fro the AD, those shop managers and or AD senior Manager would like to Hold and Keep this watch for himself, his relatives and his VIP Customers, before they are displayed for sales I the shops.
I am a Sham Shui Po Snob*… I can hardly get one too, so please do not ask me to get one for you, though I have no hesitation to offer my help for holding one for you if I could. If you can get one for me with a reasonable price.,.. I will like to buy from you!
Note that the Black One should be the winner! Price? No yet released.,… Keep an eye with your dealer and this is Hottest items from Rolex. WATCH OUT!
The Detail engineering specification as follows
The Ref 216570 Explorer II actually features a brand new movement Cal 3187, which is manufactured completely in-house by Rolex. The upgrades include Paraflex shock absorbers and parachrom hairspring.The case is 42mm and the watch comes with both black and white dials.
The bracelet is also upgraded to include a safety catch and Easylink extension link. Also, the new hands on the Explorer II are much wider than before, and both the hands and markers are now lined with black.
*Note
I have no intension to have a bad comment on Sham Shui Po which is Hong Kong poorest district, but I do like the people there, they are the grass root people in HK. They smile more than you can expect to see in Central or TST…

Rolex Explorer

At first Rolex seemed unsure of the watch’s potential and so two distinct variations of the Explorer model were created that targeted two different markets. The first was known as the “Air King Explorer” and the second variation was known as the “Dress Explorer.” The dress Explorer is a standard Oyster Perpetual in either steel, gold with white or black dials with gold markers and hands.
In 1959 Rolex released the model 6610, which is generally the look sported by the Explorer today. Inside, however, there have been numerous changes with the movements as technologies advanced. In addition, the Explorer was among the first to use Rolex’s new Oyster bracelet, which had links machined from solid steel rather than the folded steel used in older bracelets.

In the early 1970s, Rolex designed the Explorer II, which was released as model 1655. It uses the same caliber movement found in the GMT-Master, but with a fixed bezel. It also featured a fourth hand that rotated every 24 hours. Rolex marketed this new Explorer as being beneficial to speleologists or cave explorers.

Rolex has always marketed their Explorer watches as being extremely rugged and resistant to big changes of pressure and temperature and in rough weather and humid conditions. While some adventurers and extreme sportsmen actually prefer watches like the Casio G-Shock for their rugged designs, the Explorer’s popularity remains strong with both the real explorers and those who just dream of being one.

HK Snob